DrFishbone
SCCoA Member
Up for sale I have my custom front-mount intercooler and radiator setup that I’ve run for several years..it has served me well. The build is detailed in this thread:
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?109826-DrFishbone-s-FMIC
With this “kit” that I’m selling, there is very little modification that has to be done to your car to make it work….I’ve tried to list all the little things below though.
I used a 180°F T-stat, with the low speed fan turn-on @ 190°F...the coolant NEVER got above 194°F, it ALWAYS ran cool….hot days in traffic, back-to-back runs at the track, always very consistently cool. The radiator mounts double as mounts for the factory SC fan….you will use the stock SC fan mounting points. And of course, the FMIC configuration is much better than the stock IC as far as air charge temperatures are concerned too.
Everything listed is removed from my car right now, so I can get it boxed and shipped fairly quickly, if needed.
Shipping is not included and will be extra.
Included:
25"x12"x3" Intercooler and mounting brackets
Piping from supercharger top to intercooler and all couplings and clamps
Piping from intercooler outlet to intake manifold elbow and all couplings and clamps
Aluminum High Capacity radiator with cap
Custom Steel upper and lower brackets w/rubber isolators
Custom-formed racing plastic air directors (to keep air from flowing around the radiator)
All needed hardware
Total: $400
Extras:
Modified stock intake manifold elbow (mildly ported and stock piping flange ground-off for intercooler piping connection): $40
Custom spliced lower radiator hose (a little bit of coolant seeps at the splice, but has held up for years): $10
Ford Flat / Black PS Cap: $10
Factory SC Fan with extended pigtail: $100
There are a few minor mods that I remember doing to make everything work…
1) Replace stock SC PS cap with the typical flat black Ford PS cap (to give room for IC piping)
2) I had deleted my A/C previously so this kit was fitted without A/C….with some tweaking, you might be able to get this to work and keep your AC, but you’re on your own there.
3) Drill/tap core support for (2) IC mounts and (1) radiator bracket mounting screw.
4) Drill (2) holes in lower core support for additional rubber isolators. These are optional, but helped the lower radiator bracket sit a little more level during installation.
5) You MIGHT need to extend the radiator fan wiring a couple of inches…I can’t remember if I did this out of necessity or because my old plug was junk…I can check.
6) If you don’t buy the intake manifold inlet elbow, you’ll have to grind/cut/machine your inlet elbow to accept the IC piping…there are other options too, of course.
7) Upper SC radiator hose can be used (I cut about 1-2” off the T-stat housing side)
8) Lower SC radiator hose will not work. You’ll need a custom one or buy my spliced one.
9) I’ll include the rubber isolators and mats that I used to keep the radiator from rubbing, but you might consider upgrading/replacing. They were intended to be trial-fits, but worked well enough for permanent use. Lol
10) I added alcohol injection as my car got faster, so there is a drilled/tapped hole near the battery that will need to be plugged or used.
11) I cut the fan-mounting screws shorter to make sure they didn’t get too close to the radiator…they are included though.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?109826-DrFishbone-s-FMIC
With this “kit” that I’m selling, there is very little modification that has to be done to your car to make it work….I’ve tried to list all the little things below though.
I used a 180°F T-stat, with the low speed fan turn-on @ 190°F...the coolant NEVER got above 194°F, it ALWAYS ran cool….hot days in traffic, back-to-back runs at the track, always very consistently cool. The radiator mounts double as mounts for the factory SC fan….you will use the stock SC fan mounting points. And of course, the FMIC configuration is much better than the stock IC as far as air charge temperatures are concerned too.
Everything listed is removed from my car right now, so I can get it boxed and shipped fairly quickly, if needed.
Shipping is not included and will be extra.
Included:
25"x12"x3" Intercooler and mounting brackets
Piping from supercharger top to intercooler and all couplings and clamps
Piping from intercooler outlet to intake manifold elbow and all couplings and clamps
Aluminum High Capacity radiator with cap
Custom Steel upper and lower brackets w/rubber isolators
Custom-formed racing plastic air directors (to keep air from flowing around the radiator)
All needed hardware
Total: $400
Extras:
Modified stock intake manifold elbow (mildly ported and stock piping flange ground-off for intercooler piping connection): $40
Custom spliced lower radiator hose (a little bit of coolant seeps at the splice, but has held up for years): $10
Ford Flat / Black PS Cap: $10
Factory SC Fan with extended pigtail: $100
There are a few minor mods that I remember doing to make everything work…
1) Replace stock SC PS cap with the typical flat black Ford PS cap (to give room for IC piping)
2) I had deleted my A/C previously so this kit was fitted without A/C….with some tweaking, you might be able to get this to work and keep your AC, but you’re on your own there.
3) Drill/tap core support for (2) IC mounts and (1) radiator bracket mounting screw.
4) Drill (2) holes in lower core support for additional rubber isolators. These are optional, but helped the lower radiator bracket sit a little more level during installation.
5) You MIGHT need to extend the radiator fan wiring a couple of inches…I can’t remember if I did this out of necessity or because my old plug was junk…I can check.
6) If you don’t buy the intake manifold inlet elbow, you’ll have to grind/cut/machine your inlet elbow to accept the IC piping…there are other options too, of course.
7) Upper SC radiator hose can be used (I cut about 1-2” off the T-stat housing side)
8) Lower SC radiator hose will not work. You’ll need a custom one or buy my spliced one.
9) I’ll include the rubber isolators and mats that I used to keep the radiator from rubbing, but you might consider upgrading/replacing. They were intended to be trial-fits, but worked well enough for permanent use. Lol
10) I added alcohol injection as my car got faster, so there is a drilled/tapped hole near the battery that will need to be plugged or used.
11) I cut the fan-mounting screws shorter to make sure they didn’t get too close to the radiator…they are included though.