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Thread: Removal of the brake lines from booster

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    Removal of the brake lines from booster

    I'm in the process of removing the brake booster and I'm having a hard time with the brake lines. I've loosened the one on the top next to the motor. I'm having a hard time with the top one next to the fender. With a flared nut wrench on the line and the same on the back nut I cant get it to budge. I'm wondering what size wrench does everyone use. Only size that's snug on it is a 12mm. But seems to want to round off the nut line. Any suggestions

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Dallas, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90blacksc View Post
    I'm in the process of removing the brake booster and I'm having a hard time with the brake lines. I've loosened the one on the top next to the motor. I'm having a hard time with the top one next to the fender. With a flared nut wrench on the line and the same on the back nut I cant get it to budge. I'm wondering what size wrench does everyone use. Only size that's snug on it is a 12mm. But seems to want to round off the nut line. Any suggestions
    I bought 2 different size Vise Wrenchs, not vise grips, for just that purpose. They lock against 3 sides. I think I bought the 4" one to use on the smaller nut. Other than that, you can try to over clamp a regular flare nut wrench with a set of vise grips. That might keep them from expanding as you apply torque.
    Last edited by TbirdSCFan; 09-02-2018 at 05:39 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Milwaukee, Wisconsin
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    3,315

    try some heat

    try putting some heat on it don't go over board just a small heating torch to make them come apart...good luck....Rich
    Too many cars,too little time to drive them. Anything less than 500 cubes is a small block. If you slow down in life you will get run over..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    419
    Good evening


    I used 11 mm wrench flare when removing the TEVES Mark II brake lines. Make sure you have a quality wrench. I found this out the hard way using a 23 mm open end wrench from Harbor Freight (no .030" clearance) vs Auto Zone to remove a fitting/nut from a Buick Regal. If the nut is not too badly rounded you might take a flat precision file to return the flats. Soak a rag with a good penetrant and place it over the fitting/nut and try the next day.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    68
    I bought a better set of flared nut wrenches. Still rounded off alittle but got it off. I have the new assembly in. Just have to tighten everything up. The sensor on the brake pedal that mounts to the pedal where the rod connects having an issue with getting in back on!!

    Then new fluid, and bleed the system. Seen some tools to where you can do it with one person, what are yall thought? Also any special brake fluid or just the standard.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pacific Rim
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    6,701
    If you're talking about bleeding a '90, you do the fronts key off, and the rears key on.

    I use a one-man bleeder w/small tube that fits over the bleed screw, draining into a small bottle via a one-way valve - crack the valve, slowly/gently press the pedal, release, repeat, checking the fluid level in the brake reservoir -often -. and the catch bottle frequently too so you can empty when full. Bottle comes with a magnet so you can better manage the operation.

    If you drained the accumulator, I'd completely fill the reservoir first, then key on while the pump refills the accumulator.

    I use name brand Dot-3 spec fluid.

    Curious if you removed one or both wiper cowls, and also wiper motor assembly?
    Last edited by KMT; 09-04-2018 at 02:31 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Dallas, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90blacksc View Post
    The sensor on the brake pedal that mounts to the pedal where the rod connects having an issue with getting in back on!!
    You mean the brake lamp switch? Hmmmm... lets see.. its a do-by-braille job. The bushing goes on first with the larger end against the lever. But then, you deftly coax it into the push rod, and push everything to the tip of, and flush with, the stud... then you carefully slip the open "U" side of the switch (pointing up) to the left and the open "O" side to the right. Slip it completly over the stud, then push it back to the left and seat it against flat lever. Insert the washer over the tip on the right and the cotterpin/clip slides through the hole.. that should do it.

    Oh.. one other thing.. if you have the unit bolted to the firewall.. you'll have a hell of a time getting the plastic bushing on becasue the rod will not move enough.. simple fix.. loosen the 4 nuts on the back side, open the hood, and angle the unit slightly and hold it in place with some scraps of wood wedged here and there. get back under the dash, fix the bushing and rod placement. Then tighten it back up. Don't forget to remove the wood scraps first!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    If you're talking about bleeding a '90, you do the fronts key off, and the rears key on.

    I use a one-man bleeder w/small tube that fits over the bleed screw, draining into a small bottle via a one-way valve - crack the valve, slowly/gently press the pedal, release, repeat, checking the fluid level in the brake reservoir -often -. and the catch bottle frequently too so you can empty when full. Bottle comes with a magnet so you can better manage the operation.

    If you drained the accumulator, I'd completely fill the reservoir first, then key on while the pump refills the accumulator.

    I use name brand Dot-3 spec fluid.

    Curious if you removed one or both wiper cowls, and also wiper motor assembly?
    Thanks for the info. I only removed the wiper cowl on the driver side, did not remove the wiper more assembly.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by TbirdSCFan View Post
    You mean the brake lamp switch? Hmmmm... lets see.. its a do-by-braille job. The bushing goes on first with the larger end against the lever. But then, you deftly coax it into the push rod, and push everything to the tip of, and flush with, the stud... then you carefully slip the open "U" side of the switch (pointing up) to the left and the open "O" side to the right. Slip it completly over the stud, then push it back to the left and seat it against flat lever. Insert the washer over the tip on the right and the cotterpin/clip slides through the hole.. that should do it.

    Oh.. one other thing.. if you have the unit bolted to the firewall.. you'll have a hell of a time getting the plastic bushing on becasue the rod will not move enough.. simple fix.. loosen the 4 nuts on the back side, open the hood, and angle the unit slightly and hold it in place with some scraps of wood wedged here and there. get back under the dash, fix the bushing and rod placement. Then tighten it back up. Don't forget to remove the wood scraps first!

    Yes sorry I know my wording was off. I need to get back out there and get it back together. Been dark every day when I get home .

    Thanks for the info
    Last edited by 90blacksc; 09-06-2018 at 02:02 PM.

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