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Thread: Derek's Project GFP

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, North Carolina
    Posts
    591
    I have been making some slow progress on the project. I have cleaned up the rods and pistons using lacquer thinner. In true, budget form, I did a poor man's polish of the crank journals using 600 grit strips and WD40 (it really didnt take much effort to shine them up). Even got to try my hand at dingle ball honing the cylinders. I bought a set of replacement rings for a 4.000 bore. Looks like the end gap going to be about close straight out of the box, around 0.025"ish (I will file them to the same size once I get everything cleaned up). I realize that it is a bit much gap for NA, but it should be good for stage 2 of this project. I checked the main bearing clearances, looks like its going to be 0.0025 to 0.0030. My research leads me to believe this is about right. So far I have only checked one rod bearing, and it looked to be about 0.0025" as well. When I get some more time I will check the others before installing.

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    Otherwise, I have been buying parts for the project, such as oil pan, HV oil pump, pick up tube, dipstick, seals and gaskets, water pump (more on this in a second), new timing set, and bearings. My cousin visited this weekend and we hit up the local yard and scored some accessory brackets from a 95 mustang. It was then that I realized how much bigger the van version of the water pump is than the mustang pump. I assume you have to match the pump and accessory brackets, so i will have to exchange the one I bought. I also grabbed the crank pulley (I dont know if I need it or not, but it seemed like I might). Hopefully I can reuse the van water pump pulley.

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    Any idiot can make a Mustang fast...
    It takes a special idiot to make a Thunderbird fast!!!
    89 SC 4.3 stroker 384rwhp 473ftlbs
    Best ET 13.085 Best MPH 106.6... got some work to do!
    2016 V6 M90 Dyno Champ 2016 Mod 1 Runner Up

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    69
    for ease of packaging and fabrication and low cost, stick the turbo at the rear of the valley like the Ford Diesels have done. start with stock manifolds and make a special "Y pipe" to feed both manifolds to the turbine entrance and then run as big a downpipe as you can fit between engine/BH and firewall to whatever size exhaust system you want.

    front mounted A/A cooler or with your new TIG whip up an A/W IC to fit where the 351's upper manifold used to go.. .


    you get the idea.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Covington, WA
    Posts
    200
    while your at it split the turbine housing from the compressor housing connect them with a rod that runs through the valley. keep the heat away from the compressor side

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  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Greenville, IN
    Posts
    4,261
    I feel like I need to bathe after seeing that Mercedes engine bay....what a mess. A clean mess, yes...but very unpleasing to the eye. The diagrams are even worse! lol

    Seems to me....especially if you don't want a 6" cowl hood....that both of these mounting ideas leave you without much room at all for an intake manifold. If you have a truck, you have room upward...not so much with the T-Bird though. Also, routing the downpipe wouldn't be too fun...there's not really any space between the firewall and the back of the engine. Without AC, there might be room on the passenger side though.
    Matt Haub
    Shootouts: '09 SS 1st | '10 Mod1 2nd | '11 Bracket 3rd | '12 Bracket 1st | 2013 | '14 Bracket 3rd | 2015 | '16 Bracket 1st & Mod2 2nd | 2017 |
    Black '89 5spd - 281K miles, MPx, E85, Alky-Inj ¶ RWHP: ? RWTQ: ? ¶ Best 1/4mi:12.521, MPH:107.23mph
    35th Anniversary Auto 46k miles | Red '93 Auto 186k miles
    My Garage

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, North Carolina
    Posts
    591
    Quote Originally Posted by DrFishbone View Post
    I feel like I need to bathe after seeing that Mercedes engine bay....what a mess. A clean mess, yes...but very unpleasing to the eye. The diagrams are even worse! lol

    Seems to me....especially if you don't want a 6" cowl hood....that both of these mounting ideas leave you without much room at all for an intake manifold. If you have a truck, you have room upward...not so much with the T-Bird though. Also, routing the downpipe wouldn't be too fun...there's not really any space between the firewall and the back of the engine. Without AC, there might be room on the passenger side though.
    I will be ditching the AC and the smog pump... mainly because the AC just isnt very cold. I spent a lot of money to replace everything and it wont really cool the car off enough to make it comfortable on a hot and humid NC summer day. I guess the 134a stuff just isnt as cold as the old r12, or the system just isnt sized big enough for the 134a. So i just dont drive it when the temperature is over 85 degrees in the summer. 85 here feels like 90-95 with the humidity.

    As far as the downpipe routing, I would love to figure out a way to dump by the front wheels somehow. But I doubt that is practical for a street car needing a muffler.
    Any idiot can make a Mustang fast...
    It takes a special idiot to make a Thunderbird fast!!!
    89 SC 4.3 stroker 384rwhp 473ftlbs
    Best ET 13.085 Best MPH 106.6... got some work to do!
    2016 V6 M90 Dyno Champ 2016 Mod 1 Runner Up

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, North Carolina
    Posts
    591
    Just a little update... I decided that I was going to take a crack at porting these E7 heads. I know they are junk and are not really worth the time or money to port... but right now time is free and I doubt that I can make this head worse than it is stock. I found a write up on diyporting.com that gives a decent guide on how to port these heads. If you have never ported a set of heads, its a lot of work, especially these iron heads. I probably have 12 hours in just the one head so far. I am hoping the next one goes a little fast now that I have a feel for it.

    Here is what I started with...

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    This is where I ended up. There are two places where most of the attention is given. The first one is reducing the size of the valve guide boss. The second is to remove the push rod bumps near the entrance to the ports.

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    I followed the guide just past part 2. Hopefully I will end up with 180cfm at .500 lift as the guy reports. Its not great, but its better than the 159cfm stock. Speaking of .500 lift... I keep thinking about dropping a cheap cam in the motor now, instead of later. I think the F303 cam would be a good fit, if nothing else they sound pretty good. I have already purchased some upgraded valve springs in preparation for the turbo action later.

    Other than that, Im still collecting parts here and there. I scored a good deal on a brand new Trickflow intake. I got the correct timing cover for the mustang water pump for Christmas. And I finally got my rod and main clearances where I want them (0.0026ish on the rods and 0.0030ish on the mains).

    Hopefully I can get some time over the next couple weeks to finish the other head. It would be nice to begin putting this motor back together by the end of January.
    Any idiot can make a Mustang fast...
    It takes a special idiot to make a Thunderbird fast!!!
    89 SC 4.3 stroker 384rwhp 473ftlbs
    Best ET 13.085 Best MPH 106.6... got some work to do!
    2016 V6 M90 Dyno Champ 2016 Mod 1 Runner Up

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