David Neibert
SCCoA Admin
This brings back a lot of memories from my 93 SC converted to 347 turbo. You are starting to get to the part where you find that the devil is in the details.
David
David
My cousin and I thrashed on this thing for the past week. Its been tough and fighting us most of the way. Trying to work through some wiring and electrical stuff that I dont quite understand yet. I tried to hook of the EEC and QH in a hurry late last night and I may have damaged stuff. Hope its not too bad. I forgot to repair the eec ground wire connector by the battery and tried to connect to the QH unknowingly. The USB cable got really hot and it may have damaged the connector on the board... the usb cable is definitely damaged some on the connector that plugs into the QH. I guess the EEC may have tried to pull a ground through the usb? Something else that is weird is that the 12v and ground (pins 4-5) on the BA5000 slot maf seem to have continuity... I did not expect that. So now I am checking out all the wiring changes, and making sure everything is correct. I dont understand why the ignition coil wire (the smaller red/green in the main fuse box) )that I used to trigger the EEC relay I added seems to have continuity to ground. If i pull the ignition fuse it opens (that means the big red/green wire side has the continuity that pass it through the fuse). I dont know if this is normal or not, but it seems odd to me.
I'll keep chipping away at it. Sucks, but GFP.
then intake tube is temporary. just want to get it fired first.
My cousin and I thrashed on this thing for the past week. Its been tough and fighting us most of the way. Trying to work through some wiring and electrical stuff that I dont quite understand yet. I tried to hook of the EEC and QH in a hurry late last night and I may have damaged stuff. Hope its not too bad. I forgot to repair the eec ground wire connector by the battery and tried to connect to the QH unknowingly. The USB cable got really hot and it may have damaged the connector on the board... the usb cable is definitely damaged some on the connector that plugs into the QH. I guess the EEC may have tried to pull a ground through the usb? Something else that is weird is that the 12v and ground (pins 4-5) on the BA5000 slot maf seem to have continuity... I did not expect that. So now I am checking out all the wiring changes, and making sure everything is correct. I dont understand why the ignition coil wire (the smaller red/green in the main fuse box) )that I used to trigger the EEC relay I added seems to have continuity to ground. If i pull the ignition fuse it opens (that means the big red/green wire side has the continuity that pass it through the fuse). I dont know if this is normal or not, but it seems odd to me.
I'll keep chipping away at it. Sucks, but GFP.
View attachment 68689
then intake tube is temporary. just want to get it fired first.
Looking sweet, Derek.
The continuity surprises probably aren't issues....remember....a resistor has continuity between each end too.
Lucky you on not having any leaks on that line.
MAF should be ok. Shouldn't be anymore than 5v going to any wire there, so just readings going to the wrong place. And yeah the slot maf is wired different from the older style mafs. Mainly the IAT legs are in line instead of on the outer ends.
After cutting grass for 3 hours tonight, i was able to mess around with the car a little tonight. I adjusted the base timing (it was too far retarded) and it started better and ran better, but around 500rpms instead of 728 (nubase) . I plugged the spout connector back in and it ran like it should and sounded pretty good. It has about 60psi of oil pressure at idle (coldish ~80-120F). More video to come, but Im sending the raw video to my cousin, as he is way better at that stuff than me.
I have noticed a few things so far that need attention:
The biggest issue that Im concerned about is that the alternator seems to be getting hot. I placed my hand on it at one point and noticed that it felt way hotter than it should. So far I have only gotten the car up to 130 degrees. The longest that it has run at any one time is about 50 seconds. Its too hot to touch for more than a second. Im not sure what would cause that? I double checked continuity at the battery terminals and it says open... so I dont think there is a short. at idle speed (728), the vbat parameter is ~13.8v... so it appears to be charging. Its a brand new bosch alternator for a 95 mustang gt (which is were the accessory brackets came from). Its a 130amp alternator instead of the 95 amp alternator that came on the 92 5.0 bird (where the harness came from). It physically plugged in with the same connectors, so I assumed it was compatible. I've never felt an alternator get hot before, but I never had reason to... so maybe its just the charging load causing it to be so hot? The battery was fully charged the other day, but its had a lot of cranking cycles and running the starter the last two days..