Derek's Project GFP

If I am not mistaken, the box intake is actually taller than what I have now.

OK. I couldn't find any dimensions but the general thought was that since it doesn't need to clear the valve covers other than allowing room for the throttle body, it wouldn't be quite as tall.
 
A couple of folks have mentioned to me about using the trick flow box intake so i wanted to share my research here for future reference in case anyone cares to use this thread in the future...

If you buy a 351 out of a truck or van, plan on buying a mustang 5.0 fuel rail and replacing the rubber sections to make it fit a 351 or spending some serious money on aftermarket fuel rails... which are really expensive for some reason. The truck fuel rails do not work with the traditional style trickflow SBF intake manifolds because the FRP is on the wrong side. If you start with a 5.0 bird, im guessing those rails should work if the FPR is on the passenger side.

  • Trickflow EFI Box R intake 90mm TB opening = 12.75" tall, new $798
  • Trickflow EFI R intake 70/90mm TB opening = 11.5" tall, new $795 I found a new one that somebody changed their mind on and got it for $600
  • Holley High Ram AIR intake 95/105mm TB opening 11.41"* requires a low profile distributor. new $769 but includes fuel rails. holley's low profile distributor is $450
  • Trickflow EFI R carb style intake = 6.45" plus an elbow like made by edelbrock...PN:3847 at 3.62", or PN:3848 at 5.04", or PN:3849 at 7.75" which would add up to 10.07"*tall, or 11.49" tall, or 14.2" tall. *I dont think the short one will work due to distributor/valve cover clearance. new $556 for both lower and elbow, but will require aftermarket fuel rails.
  • The Ford Lightning lower intakes are going for over $600 each right now and then you still have to find an upper. I could not find a height listed anywhere, but they are so sought after, its not a good deal and I bet it still requires an aftermarket hood.
  • Trickflow EFI R carb style intake = 6.45" plus fabricate your own elbow like was done on David Neiberts 347 motor

So the intake I chose is tall, but in line with all the other aftermarket options. The price I got is fair IMO. Im not sure that the larger 90mm+ TBs are required to make the power I am looking to make with a turbo. There is that article on the internet and some guys make 1000+hp with a junkyard 351 that had a 75mm TB and a turbo.

I think with some of the measurements from folks have helped me out with on Facebook, the Cobra R hood will be OK. I went ahead and ordered it this week and should be here by the end of April. I wasnt able to get a lot done on the car this weekend, but I have started looking at the wiring changes and I installed the flywheel and clutch. The flywheel is a 164 tooth 28oz imbalance from ford racing. Its sfi approved. The clutch is the same CF DF clutch that had before. I have a love-hate relationship with that clutch.

flywheel clutch.jpg
 
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Its been a tough week. We had to say goodbye to our 18.5 year old cat this week, which was really hard on me and the wife. Now im fighting off a cold, which left me worthless for a day and a half. But, I did manage to get one thing done this weekend and that is wiring up the EEC relay. There are a few wiring changes that need to be done to make the swap happen, and this is probably the biggest one. Im not going to post too much about the specifics here, as Dave Dalke (SCUinc) has documented this pretty well and copyrighted the information. I will say that for any non-paying members that read this thread, there is a great resource of wiring diagrams available on the members only portion of the site... way better schematics than the EVTM. I did some double checking and tracing of the schematic to make sure I understood what was going on. The SC uses the IRCM to power the EEC, and the 5.0 uses a relay in the main power distribution box. So I wired up a 40 amp relay using the wiring diagrams and DD's documentation and hid the relay in the power distribution box. I swapped out a connector on the 5.0 harness and and all that is left is to re-wrap the harness in electrical tape.

EEC RELAY.jpg
 
Its been a tough week. We had to say goodbye to our 18.5 year old cat this week, which was really hard on me and the wife. Now im fighting off a cold, which left me worthless for a day and a half. But, I did manage to get one thing done this weekend and that is wiring up the EEC relay. There are a few wiring changes that need to be done to make the swap happen, and this is probably the biggest one. Im not going to post too much about the specifics here, as Dave Dalke (SCUinc) has documented this pretty well and copyrighted the information. I will say that for any non-paying members that read this thread, there is a great resource of wiring diagrams available on the members only portion of the site... way better schematics than the EVTM. I did some double checking and tracing of the schematic to make sure I understood what was going on. The SC uses the IRCM to power the EEC, and the 5.0 uses a relay in the main power distribution box. So I wired up a 40 amp relay using the wiring diagrams and DD's documentation and hid the relay in the power distribution box. I swapped out a connector on the 5.0 harness and and all that is left is to re-wrap the harness in electrical tape.

Which ECM did you decide to use for this?
 
The QH and BE that I already had with my last set up. I had to purchase a different strategy file to match the new EEC. It is gsalc from sailorbob to match the L1C catch code.
 
The QH and BE that I already had with my last set up. I had to purchase a different strategy file to match the new EEC. It is gsalc from sailorbob to match the L1C catch code.

Very cool. Sounds like you have everything very much in order. I can't wait to see how it all turns out. Nice work.
 
I have been looking at the engine wiring harnesses and diagrams trying to make sure that I understand how it works and how its routed. I do not like the way the wires branch off for the distributor/coil or the maf/coolant reservoir wire is not in a great spot either when the turbo dump pipes runs out on the passenger side. The loom on the harness that I got was really dried out, stiff and brittle. So i decided to peel into it and look at rearranging the harness. I think the best approach is to branch off the distributor/coil wiring back at the firewall and run it from the back of the motor to the front (like the injector harness). I would move the branch point for the maf connector back to the same point. I have not committed to this idea yet because it requires extending some wires including the foil wrapped ignition wires (assuming the TFI module remains up by the core support). Its not rocket science, but once you hack up a harness, its hard to go backwards!

The other concern i have is how the harness runs on the inside of the frame rail around the shock tower on the passenger side. There is a section of the shock tower that is boxed in that I had never paid much attention to before. I think it would be possible to notch the bottom of that area without reducing much, if any, strength. Then run the harness behind that section of the shock tower (on top of the frame rail). Then I would drill a hole in the top of the frame rail in front of the shock tower and run the harness up to the front of the car inside the frame rail. I am hoping to accomplish two things with this idea... 1. protect the harness from the heat of the turbo and down pipe 2. make as much room as possible for the passenger manifold and down pipe.

Ohh yeah, and I got a turbo since the last update :)

HARNESS TUCK.jpg
 
The acc brackets came from a 95 mustang 5.0

So, if you're using a Fox water pump and crank pulley then you're going to run into some alignment issues with that bracket. Of course, if you're using a Fox water pump and crank pulley then you're also going to have fun getting a radiator and fan in there too unless you plan on putting the radiator in front of the core support.
 
So, if you're using a Fox water pump and crank pulley then you're going to run into some alignment issues with that bracket. Of course, if you're using a Fox water pump and crank pulley then you're also going to have fun getting a radiator and fan in there too unless you plan on putting the radiator in front of the core support.

A 95 mustang is not a fox, its a SN95. Both accessory brackets, crank pulley, water pump, and alternator are from/for a 95 mustang, so they all match. The timing cover is from Jegs, but fits a 95 mustang. Im currently searching for a water pump pulley, but will find one that matches the 95 mustang. The water pump pulley came with the 5.8, but I had to open up the center hole to fit the mustang water pump. The harmonic balancer is the monkey wrench in the combination. I purchased a Power Bond PB1082SS. This is one of two PB balancers that they make for the 351w (28oz) that is SFI approved. This balancer does not space the 95 mustang crank pulley out far enough. Ford Performance Parts makes a M-8510-B351 crank pulley spacer. My plan is to purchase this spacer and then machine it to the correct thickness to allow the crank pulley to line up with the other pulleys. But Im waiting to get the power steering pulley first to make life easier to measure.

I posted pictures of the radiator and fan set up that I am going to use already (on page 4 of this thread). From the pictures you can see that it clears the water pump snout, which is the closest interference. What I have not posted on this radiator set up is the fan controller and overflow reservoir. But there is plenty of room to tuck that stuff in somewhere on the driver's front side.
 
A 95 mustang is not a fox, its a SN95. Both accessory brackets, crank pulley, water pump, and alternator are from/for a 95 mustang, so they all match. The timing cover is from Jegs, but fits a 95 mustang. Im currently searching for a water pump pulley, but will find one that matches the 95 mustang. The water pump pulley came with the 5.8, but I had to open up the center hole to fit the mustang water pump. The harmonic balancer is the monkey wrench in the combination. I purchased a Power Bond PB1082SS. This is one of two PB balancers that they make for the 351w (28oz) that is SFI approved. This balancer does not space the 95 mustang crank pulley out far enough. Ford Performance Parts makes a M-8510-B351 crank pulley spacer. My plan is to purchase this spacer and then machine it to the correct thickness to allow the crank pulley to line up with the other pulleys. But Im waiting to get the power steering pulley first to make life easier to measure.

I posted pictures of the radiator and fan set up that I am going to use already (on page 4 of this thread). From the pictures you can see that it clears the water pump snout, which is the closest interference. What I have not posted on this radiator set up is the fan controller and overflow reservoir. But there is plenty of room to tuck that stuff in somewhere on the driver's front side.

OK, cool. The pictures with the water pump on seemed to look like the long neck water pump instead of the short neck pump so that's why I was asking. I went through most of these things with my setup so that's I was looking at it.

I recently changed my balancer and I went with the Professional Products SFI balancer which required a spacer and they make one of those that is correct for our application as well.

Here is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ELXDQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Keep in mind that the picture is not accurate. The part I received is machined aluminum and is a very nice part. I'm not sure if that would work for your balancer or not though.
 
I wanted to document this in case there are some other gluttons out there wanting to try this swap. Trickflow makes a pretty nice elbow adapter for the throttle body for 94-95 mustangs (SN95 5.0). Its reasonably priced and does a nice job of rotating and lowering the throttle body to a more desirable position. What is not so obvious is that the trickflow intake has the fox throttle body bolt spacing, which is not the same as the SN95 5.0 bolt spacing. So the elbow has the fox bolt pattern on the intake side, and the SN95 bolt pattern on the throttle body side. I found this out the hard way, as the original fox throttle body that I bought did not fit the elbow. From what I can tell the IAC and TPS sensors are all compatible, so its just a matter of matching the throttle body to the elbow.

throttle body.jpg

Finally found a power steering pump/pulley from the 94-95 5.0... which is another hard lesson learned. The 94-95 mustang 5.0 power steering pump pulley is unique to those two years. I destroyed one in the yard when I pulled the brackets, because Im an idiot. I didnt realize i needed it, didnt have a puller, and didnt want to pay for the pump. So I destroyed it trying to save a few bucks... well that cost me $100. Most used part dealer yards would not sell just the pulley. :rolleyes:

Im not sure if the 94-95 mustang brackets are the best for this swap or not. Seems like I read on TCCoA that it was preferred, but they seem to be scarce around here.

Anyways, just been doing a lot of thinking and planning trying to figure out how to route all the turbo plumbing. Hopefully Im getting close on that and will start fabbing soon.
 
I wanted to document this in case there are some other gluttons out there wanting to try this swap. Trickflow makes a pretty nice elbow adapter for the throttle body for 94-95 mustangs (SN95 5.0). Its reasonably priced and does a nice job of rotating and lowering the throttle body to a more desirable position. What is not so obvious is that the trickflow intake has the fox throttle body bolt spacing, which is not the same as the SN95 5.0 bolt spacing. So the elbow has the fox bolt pattern on the intake side, and the SN95 bolt pattern on the throttle body side. I found this out the hard way, as the original fox throttle body that I bought did not fit the elbow. From what I can tell the IAC and TPS sensors are all compatible, so its just a matter of matching the throttle body to the elbow.

Finally found a power steering pump/pulley from the 94-95 5.0... which is another hard lesson learned. The 94-95 mustang 5.0 power steering pump pulley is unique to those two years. I destroyed one in the yard when I pulled the brackets, because Im an idiot. I didnt realize i needed it, didnt have a puller, and didnt want to pay for the pump. So I destroyed it trying to save a few bucks... well that cost me $100. Most used part dealer yards would not sell just the pulley. :rolleyes:

Im not sure if the 94-95 mustang brackets are the best for this swap or not. Seems like I read on TCCoA that it was preferred, but they seem to be scarce around here.

Anyways, just been doing a lot of thinking and planning trying to figure out how to route all the turbo plumbing. Hopefully Im getting close on that and will start fabbing soon.

So, yeah, unfortunately you learned the hard way on those two items. I'm sorry to hear it because I could have helped out since I had to learn the hard way pretty much too. The 91-93 MN12 5.0 also uses the same configuration as the 94-95 SN95 5.0 for the brackets, pullies and throttle body. The whole short neck water pump is what drives the whole accessory configuration. Wazee's makes a billet power steering pump pulley so it's something to keep in mind. The stock pullies are slowly becoming impossible to find too.

I think you're past the things I can help with but if you run into something else that's weird just PM me and I'll do my best to relate my experiences. If nothing else I might be able to help you avoid doing the same wrong thing I did.

It looks awesome though. I can't wait to see the finished product.
 
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