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Thread: Control arms and shocks/struts question

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    Different tools, different jobs.

    The one Roboplex shows is to remove the STUD from the spindle (usually!) for the tie rod or ball joint.

    The one TIM shows is to remove the BALL JOINT BODY from the control arm.

    What you're supposed to do is take Roboplex's tool, get it tightened up to put tension on the stud, then give the spindle a whack or two ... the tension in addition to the pressure will pop that stud right out! Usually, anyway ...

    THEN you use the tool Tim showed to remove the ball joint from the control arm. Unless you're like me, and replace both together.

    RwP
    Oh I see, I wasn't sure if in a dire situation I could use the press (Tim's tool) to remove the entire ball joint from the control arm (while it was still in the car) if I couldn't get the stud out any other way. I only say that because the tool I have wouldn't fit around the long stud on the ball joint. But after a about 1.5hrs of cycling through hitting it with the blowtorch, soaking in penetrant, and hitting with the pickle fork, I was able to get it out. Here's hoping the passenger side will be easier xD!

  2. #62
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    If it were stuck that badly, I'd take that as a hint to upgrade to 93+/Mk8 spindles, sway bar end links, and brakes so I could go PBRs

    Which, strangely enough, I've done ...

    RwP

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodeo Joe View Post
    Not a bad idea to change the LCA to strut rod bushings while you're at it. I don't believe any LCA come with them. The aftermarket bushings I've heard are fine. The problem is with the strut rod to frame bushings, those you want the factory Ford ones.

    Joe
    I've come to a dilemma with the strut rod to LCA bushings. I bought the ones from Autozone since they were the only ones that were made of rubber instead of poly, and they fit in the control arm, but it looks like they're too wide to fit on the strut rod. It seems to overlap the threads when I put it on. Did they give me the wrong part, or am I doing something wrong maybe? Either way, it doesn't seem to fit properly on the car. I've attached a photo of how it looks on the control arm. Its' part number is Duralast FA7193.
    Name:  20180112_220914.jpg
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  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    If it were stuck that badly, I'd take that as a hint to upgrade to 93+/Mk8 spindles, sway bar end links, and brakes so I could go PBRs
    Copy that

  5. #65
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    Here's another pic of when it's on the car. As you can see it cuts off ALOT of the threads for the nut. Just want your advice on if it's normal or not for the aftermarket bushings.
    Name:  20180112_225519.jpg
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  6. #66
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    They will compress some when you torque the nut down; also, the old ones had probably shrunk.

    As long as the nut gets enough engagement (depending on the year, your nut may be a through nut or a cap nut) you'll be OK - full engagement for the through nut, at least a diameter's worth of engagement for a cap nut (and yes, you SHOULD have some open space inside the cap nut; if not, the bushings aren't full enough!)

    RwP

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    They will compress some when you torque the nut down; also, the old ones had probably shrunk.

    As long as the nut gets enough engagement (depending on the year, your nut may be a through nut or a cap nut) you'll be OK - full engagement for the through nut, at least a diameter's worth of engagement for a cap nut (and yes, you SHOULD have some open space inside the cap nut; if not, the bushings aren't full enough!)

    RwP
    Ah I see, I just wanted to double check.

    I'm now trying to figure out how to tighten the lower ball joint nut without the stud spinning. Any pointers? I might just go down to Harbor Freight and get a cheap electric impact gun to see if it works. I tried jacking up the spindle to hold pressure on the stud, no dice. Tried jacking up the control arm itself, same story, just kept spinning. And this is WITH anti-seize already on the threads, which should theoretically help the bolt go on easier. I don't really1 see any place where I could shove a pry bar without damaging the ball joint boot. If I can find a solution relatively soon, I should be able to finish everything up today and get it aligned tomorrow

  8. #68
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    Is your new stud with the castle nut, or a lock nut?

    If the former ... it shouldn't be spinning at all, triple check you didn't cross thread.

    If the latter - pull it out, clean the anti-seize off completely, and then use the impact to get it started down.

    (I've owned a HF electric impact for, oh, eight or nine years now; it's never failed me save for one application, which took a 1000 lb/ft impact wrench to get loose.)

    RwP

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    Is your new stud with the castle nut, or a lock nut?

    If the former ... it shouldn't be spinning at all, triple check you didn't cross thread.

    If the latter - pull it out, clean the anti-seize off completely, and then use the impact to get it started down.

    (I've owned a HF electric impact for, oh, eight or nine years now; it's never failed me save for one application, which took a 1000 lb/ft impact wrench to get loose.)

    RwP
    Nope it's not a castle nut, but I don't think it's a lock nut either. Doesn't have anything that I can tell that would make it a lock nut (no nylon insert or a serrated base). Should I reuse the ones that came off the old ball joint just to be safe?

  10. #70
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    It's a lock nut if it's not a castle nut.

    You should see impressions on it, probably 3 around, where something stamped into it deforming the internal threads.

    Yah, I HATE those ...

    Can't offer much help there.

    RwP

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roboplex View Post
    no nylon insert or a serrated base
    Those are two types...a third is known as a crimp lock, deformed to hold by grip alone, which is what you have. Where the two you mentioned are generally used to resist vibration and/or rely on clamping, a crimp lock is used where the manuf. is trying to save money on the assembly line and doesn't want to add a split-lock to the process. I try to avoid re-using them. New ones should be available at your local auto parts store, etc.

    BTW, I would not substitute crimp lock w/nylocs. Nor with the ones w/serrated base....they offer no help once they're backed off a bit and that's not something you want as part of your suspension Dilly, dilly.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Those are two types...a third is known as a crimp lock, deformed to hold by grip alone, which is what you have. Where the two you mentioned are generally used to resist vibration and/or rely on clamping, a crimp lock is used where the manuf. is trying to save money on the assembly line and doesn't want to add a split-lock to the process. I try to avoid re-using them. New ones should be available at your local auto parts store, etc.

    BTW, I would not substitute crimp lock w/nylocs. Nor with the ones w/serrated base....they offer no help once they're backed off a bit and that's not something you want as part of your suspension Dilly, dilly.
    Okay, yeah I put the old ones on just because they were there already, but I might go out tomorrow and pick up a new pair of nylocs.

    I'm also beginning to think the mechanic who transferred the old shock to the spring and mount aligned it incorrectly. I tried both struts on the passenger side, and once I got the 3 studs in the holes in the engine bay, the holes on the bottom were lopsided with the control arm. They lined up vertically, but were lopsided horizontally. Needless to say I'm a bit ticked off; I was hoping to get this done by tomorrow (I actually have to go to the hospital on monday), but since the mechanic is closed tomorrow I guess it'll have to wait another week. Would there be a safe way for me to change the alignment of the strut mount/spring by myself?

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roboplex View Post
    I might go out tomorrow and pick up a new pair of nylocs.
    Pretty sure I just advised against that. I'd run the old crimp locks again before I'd substitute w/nylocs in this example.

    Would there be a safe way for me to change the alignment of the strut mount/spring by myself
    You paid to have it done right. Take it back. Unless you have the tools, etc. to do that job yourself, you'll have two reasons to visit the hospital
    Last edited by KMT; 01-14-2018 at 12:23 AM.

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Pretty sure I just advised against that. I'd run the old crimp locks again before I'd substitute w/nylocs in this example.
    Oh sorry, the original (old) nuts were actually nylocs, that's why I reused them instead of the new (different) crimp locks. The ones that came with the new LCAs were crimp locks.

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    You paid to have it done right. Take it back. Unless you have the tools, etc. to do that job yourself, you'll have two reasons to visit the hospital
    Yep that's a good point. I hope that the "good things come to those who wait" saying is actually true xD. At this point it'll be more than a week until I'll be able to touch it again (aside from tomorrow). Working on a car is probably not the best way to keep a central line sterile

    I'm trying to think of ways I might have screwed up, but honestly I can't think of anything. The LCA wouldn't have anything to do with the strut being misaligned, since it only moves up and down, not side to side. I can get the studs into the holes in the engine bay, but once I do the lower mount is crooked on the control arm. I tried both struts on the passenger side (haven't tried drivers side, but I'll try in the morning) and neither of them lined up. It only needs to be shifted <1in, and literally EVERYTHING else is done, that's the really annoying part xD.

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