Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 83

Thread: Control arms and shocks/struts question

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
    Posts
    2,206
    Lower spring mounts; better UCA/LCA for the front; and yes, I would back the car up on ramps and swap the shocks that way, since they ARE the limiters for excursion.

    You'll also need access to the upper shock mounting points on the rear shocks from inside the car; it's easier for me to drop the rear seat (having a fold down rear seat) than to go into the trunk, but YMMV on that.

    (I discovered having shocks serve as the rebound limiters on a 1963 Chevy when I did my first shock replacement as a 17 or 18 year old kid; it was not fun trying to keep the best friend from freaking out with the drum on my chest pinioning me down where I could not move. Didn't even bruise me; but let's just say when it went THUMP against me, my sphincter clamped very, VERY tight ... )

    RwP

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Daytona Beach, FL
    Posts
    223
    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    Lower spring mounts; better UCA/LCA for the front; and yes, I would back the car up on ramps and swap the shocks that way, since they ARE the limiters for excursion.

    You'll also need access to the upper shock mounting points on the rear shocks from inside the car; it's easier for me to drop the rear seat (having a fold down rear seat) than to go into the trunk, but YMMV on that.

    (I discovered having shocks serve as the rebound limiters on a 1963 Chevy when I did my first shock replacement as a 17 or 18 year old kid; it was not fun trying to keep the best friend from freaking out with the drum on my chest pinioning me down where I could not move. Didn't even bruise me; but let's just say when it went THUMP against me, my sphincter clamped very, VERY tight ... )

    RwP
    Lower spring mounts, are those only for the rear? I found it on rockauto, but I'm not seeing anything like that in my shop manual, except for on the rear springs. Just don't want to over (or under) order enough mounts.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Denver Area
    Posts
    797
    So wait - I'm reading about doing shocks on ramps. When I swapped my shocks out I replaced my [rear] springs too (long story). I had the entire IRS down at an angle on both sides. Did I damage something in the process? I removed the old shocks, dropped the spring on each side out, installed new springs and then used a floor jack to raise each IRS end up a bit to get the new shocks on. Forgive my ignorance here. What happens when we do this incorrectly?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    6,547
    [QUOTE=potshotscott;1114783]What happens when we do this incorrectly?[/QUOTE
    If you don't put the weight of the vehicle on the suspension first, you risk binding, or pre-loading/twisting tightened lower shock bushing/pivots, etc. as they try to fight back against that weight when the car is at normal height. As well, excessive drop on the lower arm can tweak sway bar end links if they're allowed to go past limits, if they are not disconnected first. When swapping/R&R'ng springs, confirm they are seated correctly before mounting the shocks.

    See: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...k+bind+install - Dave and others make some good points on the subject.
    Last edited by KMT; 12-27-2017 at 02:37 PM. Reason: added kink to previous thread/discussion

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,680
    Quote Originally Posted by potshotscott View Post
    So wait - I'm reading about doing shocks on ramps. When I swapped my shocks out I replaced my [rear] springs too (long story). I had the entire IRS down at an angle on both sides. Did I damage something in the process? I removed the old shocks, dropped the spring on each side out, installed new springs and then used a floor jack to raise each IRS end up a bit to get the new shocks on. Forgive my ignorance here. What happens when we do this incorrectly?
    Nothing. You'll be fine. Its the front arms+bushings that need the attention. This whole issue is sort of overworked.. they will eventually find their resting position on their own in a day or 2 anyway. Until then, you may see 1/2" of extra gap between the top of the tire and the wheel well. So don't sweat it.

    But.. on a related note, if you put in lowering springs, you are altering the geometry of the suspension. You will need a realignment to compensate for that, and even then, the arc of the travel will not be the same as stock. Your tires will wear differently and there's not much you can do about that.
    Last edited by TbirdSCFan; 12-27-2017 at 01:22 PM.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Denver Area
    Posts
    797
    Understood - did not put in lowering springs and did pull the sway bar links because they were in the way. Re-torqued all my stuff when I got the car back on the ground (especially inside the trunk). Daughter's LX had a horrible clunk when I bought it as it had loose shock nuts inside the trunk and the end link rubber was GONE.

    Robo - thanks for letting me ask the question in your thread.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
    Posts
    2,206
    Quote Originally Posted by potshotscott View Post
    So wait - I'm reading about doing shocks on ramps. When I swapped my shocks out I replaced my [rear] springs too (long story). I had the entire IRS down at an angle on both sides. Did I damage something in the process? I removed the old shocks, dropped the spring on each side out, installed new springs and then used a floor jack to raise each IRS end up a bit to get the new shocks on. Forgive my ignorance here. What happens when we do this incorrectly?
    No, it's more that if you don't do it on ramps, or at least supported on the lower control arms, it WILL drop down.

    The problems there are the brake hose being stressed, locking up the caliper due to yanking on the parking brake cable, and stressing the rear sway bar bushings.

    Now, if you're also pulling the springs, you're doing a bit more than just shocks, and that part should not apply (and if it does, you're doing the springs wrong!)

    Quote Originally Posted by Roboplex
    Lower spring mounts, are those only for the rear? I found it on rockauto, but I'm not seeing anything like that in my shop manual, except for on the rear springs. Just don't want to over (or under) order enough mounts.
    No, they're also for the front.

    RockAuto calls them "Coil Spring Seat/Insulator" ... http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/m...nsulator,10444

    They go between the spring and the lower mount on the shock; they will serve to quiet the ride.

    For maximum stiffness, you may want to find a poly or Delrin replacement for them; my Cougar is a "Grandma" car, so we stuck with rubber there. *grins*

    RwP

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Daytona Beach, FL
    Posts
    223
    Welp I've had some trouble getting parts. I ordered everything, but yet again, I was screwed over from Rockauto. Really should've stopped using them after they sent me two wrong parts for my AC overhaul, but I thought I'd give em another try. I was soooo wrong. They sent me an upper control arm with a blatant tear in the ball joint boot. So I had to send it back after a lengthy process with customer service (They seriously don't even have customer service reps over the phone anymore, you've gotta do it ALL through their horrible website), I got a replacement shipped, but it won't arrive until Wednesday.

    I thought that was it, until I got my second front strut. I felt how heavy the box was and felt my heart drop. Opened it up, and it's one of those quick struts with the spring attached....for a 1997 Toyota Camry xD. But thankfully I ordered that one through Amazon, and immediately got a rep on the phone and got a new one shipped within 5 minutes. But due to New Year's, it still won't be here until Wednesday even with 1 day shipping. I guess it's just the price to pay, and even though I can still do the rear shocks in the mean time, i'm still pretty miffed.

    Anyway, I hope you all have a great New Year's, and I'll talk to y'all once I'm able to start the job.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Daytona Beach, FL
    Posts
    223
    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    A quick note: You want to do your final tighten on all the bushings (UCA/shock tower, LCA/subframe, shock to LCA) with the weight on the car.

    The upper is actually fairly easy; if you run stock springs, then before you attack the UCA ball joint to the spindle, level it out, and torque (to the specified torque!) the UCA/shock tower bolts.

    I'm lazy, I reused the old bolts and kept the flags so I could do that single-person. If you have someone to help, new bolts and torquing with it level may be the better way.

    Leave the LCA/subframe a bit loose until you can settle weight on it.

    It helps to mark how the alignment is before you take it apart; it will STILL need to be aligned (unless you're very, VERY lucky!)

    Suggestion: Sears amongst others will offer a life time alignment; it's about 2x the price of a regular, so on the third one you're ahead.

    They'll always try to find something wrong; but eh.

    RwP
    Do you know the bolt sizes for the strut to LCA bolt, and the LCA to frame bolts? Tried all the way up to 19mm and it still wouldn't fit, just want to know which specific size it is so I don't buy the wrong socket.

    Also, do you have any pointers with loosening the UCA bolts? I can't for the life of me get to the UCA nut on the passenger side in the engine bay.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Greenville, IN
    Posts
    4,314
    Nearly all of the suspension bolts/nuts that are larger than 18mm are 21mm. I think the only exception on the front is the strut arm nut (down next to the lower ball joint).
    Matt Haub
    Shootouts: '09 SS 1st | '10 Mod1 2nd | '11 Bracket 3rd | '12 Bracket 1st | 2013 | '14 Bracket 3rd | 2015 | '16 Bracket 1st & Mod2 2nd | 2017 |
    Black '89 5spd - 281K miles, MPx, E85, Alky-Inj RWHP: ? RWTQ: ? Best 1/4mi:12.521, MPH:107.23mph
    35th Anniversary Auto 46k miles | Red '93 Auto 186k miles
    My Garage

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
    Posts
    2,206
    On my 1991 with the 5.0HO, I had to unship the receiver/drier / accumulator so I could reach in with my 18mm ratcheting box wrench.

    As to the others - 21mm, 22mm, 23mm are sizes I've used there, but I'm not sure which is which.

    RwP

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Daytona Beach, FL
    Posts
    223
    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    On my 1991 with the 5.0HO, I had to unship the receiver/drier / accumulator so I could reach in with my 18mm ratcheting box wrench.

    As to the others - 21mm, 22mm, 23mm are sizes I've used there, but I'm not sure which is which.

    RwP
    Is there any way possible to do it without removing the receiver/dryer? I just overhauled the AC system and would really prefer not to mess with it. But if it's the only way, it's the only way.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    6,547
    Quote Originally Posted by Roboplex View Post
    Is there any way possible.
    Many of us have puzzled it out with messing with the dryer. It's just a matter of having the right tools. Buy a cheap open end wrench and bend/grind it into a more helpful shape if you need to. Clamp the nut with vice grips and let them wedge against the body while you turn the bolt. Stick with it...you'll figure it out.
    Last edited by KMT; 01-04-2018 at 10:25 PM.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Daytona Beach, FL
    Posts
    223
    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Many of us have puzzled it out with removing the dryer. It's just a matter of having the right tools. Buy a cheap open end wrench and bend/grind it into a more helpful shape if you need to. Clamp the nut with vice grips and let them wedge against the body while you turn the bolt. Stick with it...you'll figure it out.
    Okay, didn't even occur to me that if I clamped the nut I could just remove the bolt. That should make it a lot easier. Thanks!

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
    Posts
    2,206
    Quote Originally Posted by Roboplex View Post
    Is there any way possible to do it without removing the receiver/dryer? I just overhauled the AC system and would really prefer not to mess with it. But if it's the only way, it's the only way.
    I didn't REMOVE it, I just released it from the clamp and shifted it just enough.

    RwP

Similar Threads

  1. Needed ASAP Control Arms and Ball Joints for 90 SC.
    By koldhearted1 in forum Want to Buy
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-27-2008, 02:55 PM
  2. Upper control arms and new poly diff mount
    By Kevin Leitem in forum Parts for Sale
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 04-05-2007, 05:32 PM
  3. Control Arm and Seat Bracket
    By tcrow31 in forum Want to Buy
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 05-25-2005, 02:14 PM
  4. Shocks/Struts question...
    By Viper96 in forum Technical Forum
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 11-12-2002, 10:14 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •