Control arms and shocks/struts question

Understood - did not put in lowering springs and did pull the sway bar links because they were in the way. Re-torqued all my stuff when I got the car back on the ground (especially inside the trunk). Daughter's LX had a horrible clunk when I bought it as it had loose shock nuts inside the trunk and the end link rubber was GONE. :eek:

Robo - thanks for letting me ask the question in your thread.
 
So wait - I'm reading about doing shocks on ramps. When I swapped my shocks out I replaced my [rear] springs too (long story). I had the entire IRS down at an angle on both sides. Did I damage something in the process? I removed the old shocks, dropped the spring on each side out, installed new springs and then used a floor jack to raise each IRS end up a bit to get the new shocks on. Forgive my ignorance here. What happens when we do this incorrectly?

No, it's more that if you don't do it on ramps, or at least supported on the lower control arms, it WILL drop down.

The problems there are the brake hose being stressed, locking up the caliper due to yanking on the parking brake cable, and stressing the rear sway bar bushings.

Now, if you're also pulling the springs, you're doing a bit more than just shocks, and that part should not apply (and if it does, you're doing the springs wrong!)

Roboplex said:
Lower spring mounts, are those only for the rear? I found it on rockauto, but I'm not seeing anything like that in my shop manual, except for on the rear springs. Just don't want to over (or under) order enough mounts.

No, they're also for the front.

RockAuto calls them "Coil Spring Seat/Insulator" ... http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...suspension,coil+spring+seat+/+insulator,10444

They go between the spring and the lower mount on the shock; they will serve to quiet the ride.

For maximum stiffness, you may want to find a poly or Delrin replacement for them; my Cougar is a "Grandma" car, so we stuck with rubber there. *grins*

RwP
 
Welp I've had some trouble getting parts. I ordered everything, but yet again, I was screwed over from Rockauto. Really should've stopped using them after they sent me two wrong parts for my AC overhaul, but I thought I'd give em another try. I was soooo wrong. They sent me an upper control arm with a blatant tear in the ball joint boot. So I had to send it back after a lengthy process with customer service (They seriously don't even have customer service reps over the phone anymore, you've gotta do it ALL through their horrible website), I got a replacement shipped, but it won't arrive until Wednesday.

I thought that was it, until I got my second front strut. I felt how heavy the box was and felt my heart drop. Opened it up, and it's one of those quick struts with the spring attached....for a 1997 Toyota Camry xD. But thankfully I ordered that one through Amazon, and immediately got a rep on the phone and got a new one shipped within 5 minutes. But due to New Year's, it still won't be here until Wednesday even with 1 day shipping. I guess it's just the price to pay, and even though I can still do the rear shocks in the mean time, i'm still pretty miffed.

Anyway, I hope you all have a great New Year's, and I'll talk to y'all once I'm able to start the job.
 
A quick note: You want to do your final tighten on all the bushings (UCA/shock tower, LCA/subframe, shock to LCA) with the weight on the car.

The upper is actually fairly easy; if you run stock springs, then before you attack the UCA ball joint to the spindle, level it out, and torque (to the specified torque!) the UCA/shock tower bolts.

I'm lazy, I reused the old bolts and kept the flags so I could do that single-person. If you have someone to help, new bolts and torquing with it level may be the better way.

Leave the LCA/subframe a bit loose until you can settle weight on it.

It helps to mark how the alignment is before you take it apart; it will STILL need to be aligned (unless you're very, VERY lucky!)

Suggestion: Sears amongst others will offer a life time alignment; it's about 2x the price of a regular, so on the third one you're ahead.

They'll always try to find something wrong; but eh.

RwP
Do you know the bolt sizes for the strut to LCA bolt, and the LCA to frame bolts? Tried all the way up to 19mm and it still wouldn't fit, just want to know which specific size it is so I don't buy the wrong socket.

Also, do you have any pointers with loosening the UCA bolts? I can't for the life of me get to the UCA nut on the passenger side in the engine bay.
 
Nearly all of the suspension bolts/nuts that are larger than 18mm are 21mm. I think the only exception on the front is the strut arm nut (down next to the lower ball joint).
 
On my 1991 with the 5.0HO, I had to unship the receiver/drier / accumulator so I could reach in with my 18mm ratcheting box wrench.

As to the others - 21mm, 22mm, 23mm are sizes I've used there, but I'm not sure which is which.

RwP
 
On my 1991 with the 5.0HO, I had to unship the receiver/drier / accumulator so I could reach in with my 18mm ratcheting box wrench.

As to the others - 21mm, 22mm, 23mm are sizes I've used there, but I'm not sure which is which.

RwP
Is there any way possible to do it without removing the receiver/dryer? I just overhauled the AC system and would really prefer not to mess with it. But if it's the only way, it's the only way.
 
Is there any way possible.

Many of us have puzzled it out with messing with the dryer. It's just a matter of having the right tools. Buy a cheap open end wrench and bend/grind it into a more helpful shape if you need to. Clamp the nut with vice grips and let them wedge against the body while you turn the bolt. Stick with it...you'll figure it out.
 
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Many of us have puzzled it out with removing the dryer. It's just a matter of having the right tools. Buy a cheap open end wrench and bend/grind it into a more helpful shape if you need to. Clamp the nut with vice grips and let them wedge against the body while you turn the bolt. Stick with it...you'll figure it out.
Okay, didn't even occur to me that if I clamped the nut I could just remove the bolt. That should make it a lot easier. Thanks!
 
Is there any way possible to do it without removing the receiver/dryer? I just overhauled the AC system and would really prefer not to mess with it. But if it's the only way, it's the only way.

I didn't REMOVE it, I just released it from the clamp and shifted it just enough.

RwP
 
I use an 18mm ratcheting dog bone in there. You can also use an 18mm wrench while you remove the nut with an air gun down below. It's difficult but I've never moved/removed the AC components to do it. (Have two '94s)
 
I use an 18mm ratcheting dog bone in there. You can also use an 18mm wrench while you remove the nut with an air gun down below. It's difficult but I've never moved/removed the AC components to do it. (Have two '94s)
Yup. If you can just get a backup wrench to hold onto the 18mm nut on the back side of the shock tower, you can then reach behind the spring with your 15mm 6pt socket, and an extension, and should be able to take the bolt out. Its actually not too hard if you raise the car up and look from the underside.. SAFETY FIRST! NEVER get under a vehicle not fully supported by solid jack stands.
 
Yup. If you can just get a backup wrench to hold onto the 18mm nut on the back side of the shock tower, you can then reach behind the spring with your 15mm 6pt socket, and an extension, and should be able to take the bolt out. Its actually not too hard if you raise the car up and look from the underside.. SAFETY FIRST! NEVER get under a vehicle not fully supported by solid jack stands.
How did you get to the nut from the underside? I can't get any type of ratchet or breaker bar on there since the clearance is so tight with the AC Accumulator, and my hands won't fit past the exhaust. I tried wrenching the bolt with my 15mm 6pt socket and it just kept slipping around the edges of the bolt. Taking a break now so that I don't break something out of frustration xD.
 
How did you get to the nut from the underside? I can't get any type of ratchet or breaker bar on there since the clearance is so tight with the AC Accumulator, and my hands won't fit past the exhaust. I tried wrenching the bolt with my 15mm 6pt socket and it just kept slipping around the edges of the bolt. Taking a break now so that I don't break something out of frustration xD.
Raise it up high and crawl underneath and shine a flashlight up there to see it. Having said that, it SEEMs to me the last time I did the UAs from the topside, I groped around by braille until I found the nut somehow and just left an adjustable wrench hanging on it. As for the bolt, knock the tabs off and that should allow the socket to seat.. or find a SAE size socket thats close and tap it on to get a tighter grip. Good luck with it. I'd forgotten how frustrating those things can be.
 
Raise it up high and crawl underneath and shine a flashlight up there to see it. Having said that, it SEEMs to me the last time I did the UAs from the topside, I groped around by braille until I found the nut somehow and just left an adjustable wrench hanging on it. As for the bolt, knock the tabs off and that should allow the socket to seat.. or find a SAE size socket thats close and tap it on to get a tighter grip. Good luck with it. I'd forgotten how frustrating those things can be.
Oh my gosh I completely forgot about the tab xD. I'm tired, it's been a loooong day...
 
I seem to recall they didn't help coming apart, but they did going back together...maybe.

No maybe; with the tabs, you can do all your tightening off the shock tower side, and you can do it with the car on the ground.

Without, you can't hardly get IN there.

They also help to crack the nuts free in removal; after that, you need an adjustable wrench or something on them to keep the assembly from moving back and forth enough to make it impossible to ratchet (same during the major portion of the tightening).

RwP
 
Coming apart, they're more trouble than they're worth if you're using a ratchet. If you use an impact, go for it. They'll either help, or self-release, but then be useless going back on. I wouldn't bother with a socket...access is too limited. Vice-grips for the win.
 
Coming apart, they're more trouble than they're worth if you're using a ratchet. If you use an impact, go for it. They'll either help, or self-release, but then be useless going back on. I wouldn't bother with a socket...access is too limited. Vice-grips for the win.
Got it off! Used vice grips on an 18mm wrench and sorta went fishing in the engine bay for the nut. Once I got it seated I went under and loosened the bolt. Not gonna lie, I did a full on victory dance when I pulled the UCA off. Will I be able to use this procedure in reverse to put the new UCA on? Will the torque specs be skewed in any way if I torque it from the bolt vs from the nut?

Otherwise, all I've got left is to remove/replace the LCAs and outer tie rods (further inspection showed me that the outer tie rods are bad), and install the sway bar end links, struts, and UCAs.
 
No maybe; with the tabs, you can do all your tightening off the shock tower side, and you can do it with the car on the ground.

Without, you can't hardly get IN there.

They also help to crack the nuts free in removal; after that, you need an adjustable wrench or something on them to keep the assembly from moving back and forth enough to make it impossible to ratchet (same during the major portion of the tightening).

RwP
About the LCAs, would it be a good idea to replace the LCA to Strut Rod bushing when I'm at it? My new LCAs didn't come with them. I don't know if they're worn, and I've heard conflicting information about the quality of the MOOG or other aftermarket replacements. Tons of posts I read have said to ONLY buy the Ford part, but nobody sells it anymore, and Ford has stopped manufacturing it. Autozone has a bushing (in stock at the store near me) that they list as rubber (not poly, which I heard is the issue with other replacements), would that be a good fit? Just want to make sure I'm not gonna be doing this all over again in a couple months.

Sorry I'm definitely an "overanalyzer" as you've probably noticed already. Thanks for bearing with me :eek:
 
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