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Thread: Control arms and shocks/struts question

  1. #31
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    May 2012
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    I use an 18mm ratcheting dog bone in there. You can also use an 18mm wrench while you remove the nut with an air gun down below. It's difficult but I've never moved/removed the AC components to do it. (Have two '94s)

  2. #32
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    May 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by potshotscott View Post
    I use an 18mm ratcheting dog bone in there. You can also use an 18mm wrench while you remove the nut with an air gun down below. It's difficult but I've never moved/removed the AC components to do it. (Have two '94s)
    Yup. If you can just get a backup wrench to hold onto the 18mm nut on the back side of the shock tower, you can then reach behind the spring with your 15mm 6pt socket, and an extension, and should be able to take the bolt out. Its actually not too hard if you raise the car up and look from the underside.. SAFETY FIRST! NEVER get under a vehicle not fully supported by solid jack stands.

  3. #33
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    Dec 2015
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    Daytona Beach, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by TbirdSCFan View Post
    Yup. If you can just get a backup wrench to hold onto the 18mm nut on the back side of the shock tower, you can then reach behind the spring with your 15mm 6pt socket, and an extension, and should be able to take the bolt out. Its actually not too hard if you raise the car up and look from the underside.. SAFETY FIRST! NEVER get under a vehicle not fully supported by solid jack stands.
    How did you get to the nut from the underside? I can't get any type of ratchet or breaker bar on there since the clearance is so tight with the AC Accumulator, and my hands won't fit past the exhaust. I tried wrenching the bolt with my 15mm 6pt socket and it just kept slipping around the edges of the bolt. Taking a break now so that I don't break something out of frustration xD.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roboplex View Post
    How did you get to the nut from the underside? I can't get any type of ratchet or breaker bar on there since the clearance is so tight with the AC Accumulator, and my hands won't fit past the exhaust. I tried wrenching the bolt with my 15mm 6pt socket and it just kept slipping around the edges of the bolt. Taking a break now so that I don't break something out of frustration xD.
    Raise it up high and crawl underneath and shine a flashlight up there to see it. Having said that, it SEEMs to me the last time I did the UAs from the topside, I groped around by braille until I found the nut somehow and just left an adjustable wrench hanging on it. As for the bolt, knock the tabs off and that should allow the socket to seat.. or find a SAE size socket thats close and tap it on to get a tighter grip. Good luck with it. I'd forgotten how frustrating those things can be.

  5. #35
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by TbirdSCFan View Post
    Raise it up high and crawl underneath and shine a flashlight up there to see it. Having said that, it SEEMs to me the last time I did the UAs from the topside, I groped around by braille until I found the nut somehow and just left an adjustable wrench hanging on it. As for the bolt, knock the tabs off and that should allow the socket to seat.. or find a SAE size socket thats close and tap it on to get a tighter grip. Good luck with it. I'd forgotten how frustrating those things can be.
    Oh my gosh I completely forgot about the tab xD. I'm tired, it's been a loooong day...

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roboplex View Post
    Oh my gosh I completely forgot about the tab xD.
    I seem to recall they didn't help coming apart, but they did going back together...maybe.

  7. #37
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    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    I seem to recall they didn't help coming apart, but they did going back together...maybe.
    No maybe; with the tabs, you can do all your tightening off the shock tower side, and you can do it with the car on the ground.

    Without, you can't hardly get IN there.

    They also help to crack the nuts free in removal; after that, you need an adjustable wrench or something on them to keep the assembly from moving back and forth enough to make it impossible to ratchet (same during the major portion of the tightening).

    RwP

  8. #38
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    Coming apart, they're more trouble than they're worth if you're using a ratchet. If you use an impact, go for it. They'll either help, or self-release, but then be useless going back on. I wouldn't bother with a socket...access is too limited. Vice-grips for the win.

  9. #39
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Coming apart, they're more trouble than they're worth if you're using a ratchet. If you use an impact, go for it. They'll either help, or self-release, but then be useless going back on. I wouldn't bother with a socket...access is too limited. Vice-grips for the win.
    Got it off! Used vice grips on an 18mm wrench and sorta went fishing in the engine bay for the nut. Once I got it seated I went under and loosened the bolt. Not gonna lie, I did a full on victory dance when I pulled the UCA off. Will I be able to use this procedure in reverse to put the new UCA on? Will the torque specs be skewed in any way if I torque it from the bolt vs from the nut?

    Otherwise, all I've got left is to remove/replace the LCAs and outer tie rods (further inspection showed me that the outer tie rods are bad), and install the sway bar end links, struts, and UCAs.

  10. #40
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    No maybe; with the tabs, you can do all your tightening off the shock tower side, and you can do it with the car on the ground.

    Without, you can't hardly get IN there.

    They also help to crack the nuts free in removal; after that, you need an adjustable wrench or something on them to keep the assembly from moving back and forth enough to make it impossible to ratchet (same during the major portion of the tightening).

    RwP
    About the LCAs, would it be a good idea to replace the LCA to Strut Rod bushing when I'm at it? My new LCAs didn't come with them. I don't know if they're worn, and I've heard conflicting information about the quality of the MOOG or other aftermarket replacements. Tons of posts I read have said to ONLY buy the Ford part, but nobody sells it anymore, and Ford has stopped manufacturing it. Autozone has a bushing (in stock at the store near me) that they list as rubber (not poly, which I heard is the issue with other replacements), would that be a good fit? Just want to make sure I'm not gonna be doing this all over again in a couple months.

    Sorry I'm definitely an "overanalyzer" as you've probably noticed already. Thanks for bearing with me

  11. #41
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    Apr 2002
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    Franklin,Mass
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    Not a bad idea to change the LCA to strut rod bushings while you're at it. I don't believe any LCA come with them. The aftermarket bushings I've heard are fine. The problem is with the strut rod to frame bushings, those you want the factory Ford ones.

    Joe
    It's not a 97 Sport, it just looks like one!

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodeo Joe View Post
    Not a bad idea to change the LCA to strut rod bushings while you're at it. I don't believe any LCA come with them. The aftermarket bushings I've heard are fine. The problem is with the strut rod to frame bushings, those you want the factory Ford ones.

    Joe
    This.

    I'd also check the strut rod to frame bushings.

    It's not QUITE true nobody sells the front strut rod bushings; they show up on Ebay every so often, and Bill and Jay (Bill at SCP and Jay Richmond here and on Facebook ... I think he's JayBob; there's a posting from 2014 at http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...liper-brackets so verify current pricing) has them, although Jay only sells with new metal sleeves (to use your current washers after a minor relieving of the center diameter).

    The rears also show up on Ebay every so often.

    RwP

  13. #43
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    Dec 2015
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    Daytona Beach, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    This.

    I'd also check the strut rod to frame bushings.

    It's not QUITE true nobody sells the front strut rod bushings; they show up on Ebay every so often, and Bill and Jay (Bill at SCP and Jay Richmond here and on Facebook ... I think he's JayBob; there's a posting from 2014 at http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...liper-brackets so verify current pricing) has them, although Jay only sells with new metal sleeves (to use your current washers after a minor relieving of the center diameter).

    The rears also show up on Ebay every so often.

    RwP
    Any tips on how to get the strut rod nut off? No matter how much muscle I put into it, I can't get enough leverage while I'm also holding the strut rod in place with another wrench. I tried jacking up a wrench to hold tension on the strut arm, but when I started pulling on the nut it just flew off.

    Soaked it in penetrating oil overnight and it seems to have done nothing to help the situation.

  14. #44
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    Can't help much; vehicles down here are Southern Belles, they come undressed with just a bit of sweet talk *grins*

    RwP

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    Can't help much; vehicles down here are Southern Belles, they come undressed with just a bit of sweet talk *grins*

    RwP
    Maybe I should've used some sweet tea instead of PB Blaster then . I can't even imagine how bad it would be if I lived in a rust area. Thankfully it's been an inland Florida car its whole life, so basically zero rust. I'll have to get someone to help hold the wrench on the tension strut while I wrench on the nut. Until then, I'll soak it overnight again in penetrating oil (trying the famed 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone) and try again tomorrow afternoon.

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