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Thread: Faulty Crank Position Sensor Or EEC iV?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    1

    Faulty Crank Position Sensor Or EEC iV?

    My 90 SC stalled at idle & I could not get it started again. Required a tow. When engine is cold, it will start, however after running for a while (1-2 mins) the tach needle goes to zero/dead & comes back (erratic & flickering) & the engine has intermittant periods of running rough & coming back to normal (bucking) & then stalling out again (& I am unable to start it again until it is cold). The symptons are similar to timing being off.

    The codes from the EEC are 14 (ignition secondary arcing, poor connections in the Profile Ignition Pickup sensor (crank position sensor) & 18 (faulty DIS module, faulty EEC, disconnect in harness).

    I replaced the DIS module & the problem is still there.

    Has anyone had to replace either the crank position sensor or the EEC & are either parts prone to failure? Could this also be the cam position sensor? Is there a way to test for either part without having to replace?

    Car is close to stock with minor mods. Timing is stock.

    Any advice is appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Evans City, PA
    Posts
    642
    DIS and crank sensor are both very common to fail. The actual EEC much less common.

    Start with the crank sensor and check the balancer isn't wobbling (about to break).

    Quote Originally Posted by fineleric View Post
    My 90 SC stalled at idle & I could not get it started again. Required a tow. When engine is cold, it will start, however after running for a while (1-2 mins) the tach needle goes to zero/dead & comes back (erratic & flickering) & the engine has intermittant periods of running rough & coming back to normal (bucking) & then stalling out again (& I am unable to start it again until it is cold). The symptons are similar to timing being off.

    The codes from the EEC are 14 (ignition secondary arcing, poor connections in the Profile Ignition Pickup sensor (crank position sensor) & 18 (faulty DIS module, faulty EEC, disconnect in harness).

    I replaced the DIS module & the problem is still there.

    Has anyone had to replace either the crank position sensor or the EEC & are either parts prone to failure? Could this also be the cam position sensor? Is there a way to test for either part without having to replace?

    Car is close to stock with minor mods. Timing is stock.

    Any advice is appreciated.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Madison, Ohio
    Posts
    17,570
    To expand on what Steve said, when it acts up and the tach drops to zero but the engine continues to run, that is 99% cam sensor. Cam sensor will also alternately cause severe rough running and check engine light.

    Crank sensor will generally result in complete non fire, total stall an no restart. A cam sensor will cause a no start issue too, but the easiest way to tell the difference is that when you are experiencing a no start condition, if the "upshift light" in the bottom of the tachometer goes out during cranking, then the crank sensor is ok and it's probably the cam sensor. If the upshift light flickers or stays lit up during engine crank, then that's 100% crank sensor, and likely a harmonic balancer too.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

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