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Thread: New super Coupe owner from College Station Texas

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90blacksc View Post
    How do you add water to the stand off? Once removed do i feel with water? I changed out the thermostat could I have a air pocket in the system already?
    New info that changes things...let's start over, then get to air in the system.

    Why did you change the thermostat?

    What thermostat did you use?

    Did you use 50/50 anti-freeze?

    What other parts did you change? Pls. list -everything-.
    Last edited by KMT; 06-09-2018 at 10:35 AM.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    New info that changes things...let's start over, then get to air in the system.

    Why did you change the thermostat?

    What thermostat did you use?

    Did you use 50/50 anti-freeze?

    What other parts did you change? Pls. list -everything-.
    I used a 160 thermostat. The was was running hot on the way from picking it up. 1st instinct was the thermostat was stuck closed. I used 50/50 antifreeze. I haven't changed anything else

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90blacksc View Post
    I used a 160 thermostat.
    Ouch - that's a large mistake...I wouldn't fire it up until corrected. These engines rely on stock specs for thermostat (unless they've been chipped and can be tuned against something lower, but I've not heard of anyone using less than a 180 stat even when going that route).

    If the fan isn't cutting in (it's two speed, by the way), then it can run hot. See my previous comment about the ECT/IRCM, but a code reader can help decide what to focus on without just guessing and throwing part$ at it.

    Resist the temptation to use basic troubleshooting instincts and repair tactics with these cars - they are different animals and rarely respond well if you take that risk.

    When you said it was running hot from when you picked it up, did that include the fan not working correctly before you opened the cooling system to change the stat? I'd not worry about an air pocket now if it didn't...you can deal with that later.

    I would install a new stock 195 stat [ see comment #6 in this previous thread: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...314#post418314 ], but not until you have more info on why the fan isn't working correctly, as there may be other reasons to have the cooling system open again (and other parts needed) and you don't want to go thru the process of bleeding all the air more times than necessary.
    Last edited by KMT; 06-09-2018 at 11:56 PM.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Ouch - that's a large mistake...I wouldn't fire it up until corrected. These engines rely on stock specs for thermostat (unless they've been chipped and can be tuned against something lower, but I've not heard of anyone using less than a 180 stat even when going that route).

    If the fan isn't cutting in (it's two speed, by the way), then it can run hot. See my previous comment about the ECT/IRCM, but a code reader can help decide what to focus on without just guessing and throwing part$ at it.

    Resist the temptation to use basic troubleshooting instincts and repair tactics with these cars - they are different animals and rarely respond well if you take that risk.

    When you said it was running hot from when you picked it up, did that include the fan not working correctly before you opened the cooling system to change the stat? I'd not worry about an air pocket now if it didn't...you can deal with that later.

    I would install a new stock 195 stat [ see comment #6 in this previous thread: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...314#post418314 ], but not until you have more info on why the fan isn't working correctly, as there may be other reasons to have the cooling system open again (and other parts needed) and you don't want to go thru the process of bleeding all the air more times than necessary.
    I'm not aware of the fan not coming on before then. I couldn't tell you if it was running or not. I know it was about an hour into the drive when the a.c. stopped blowing cold. So at that point I turned it off and rolled the windows down. Shortly after that I noticed the temp gauge climbing. As I was pulling in my neighborhood.

    This last time starting it I did notice the coolent in the resovorer starting to bubble alittle and shut it down
    Last edited by 90blacksc; 06-10-2018 at 12:06 AM.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90blacksc View Post
    This last time starting it I did notice the coolent in the resovorer starting to bubble alittle and shut it down
    That was either simply trapped air, or head gaskets/cracked head(s). What color was the coolant in the reservoir when you picked the car up? Does it look like chocolate chum and smell like exhaust now?

    I don't suppose the previous owner had any theories? Why did they want to sell the car?
    Last edited by KMT; 06-10-2018 at 12:14 AM.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    That was either simply trapped air, or head gaskets/cracked head(s). What color was the coolant in the reservoir when you picked the car up? Does it look like chocolate chum and smell like exhaust now?

    I don't suppose the previous owner had any theories? Why did they want to sell the car?
    The coolent was alittle Brown. Doesn't really smell like exhaust.

    It was a older couple that had the car and the husband had just passed away. So she was selling the car.

  7. #22
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    The fan problem should have been fixed first before replacing the thermostate. The thermostate was probably fine.
    Get the correct thermostate back in soon.

    Your problem is probably the i.r.c.m. (integrated relay control module), if it was the e.c.t. it probably would not show any temp. reading. The i.r.c.m. is a big square box plugged into a harness in front of the air cleaner area. Try unplugging it and tapping the box around lightly with your knuckle or something and then make sure the harness and i.r.c.m. are clean when plugged back in together tightly.
    That could possibly solve your fan problem.

    Whenever you drain the radiator or thermostate etc... you have to do what this link I'm posting describes. It's easy for you to do, and easier for me to copy and paste the link then type and explain...lol. If you don't bleed the cooling system it will run hot even if everything works.

    Must be patient with these cars.. and don't run it hot (crucial for these cars headgaskets) and maintain it.
    Assuming you fix these issues, you will prob be very satisfied with this car. They are Fun!
    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...stem-on-90-S-C

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5SpeedRed93 View Post
    The fan problem should have been fixed first before replacing the thermostate. The thermostate was probably fine.
    Get the correct thermostate back in soon.

    Your problem is probably the i.r.c.m. (integrated relay control module), if it was the e.c.t. it probably would not show any temp. reading. The i.r.c.m. is a big square box plugged into a harness in front of the air cleaner area. Try unplugging it and tapping the box around lightly with your knuckle or something and then make sure the harness and i.r.c.m. are clean when plugged back in together tightly.
    That could possibly solve your fan problem.

    Whenever you drain the radiator or thermostate etc... you have to do what this link I'm posting describes. It's easy for you to do, and easier for me to copy and paste the link then type and explain...lol. If you don't bleed the cooling system it will run hot even if everything works.

    Must be patient with these cars.. and don't run it hot (crucial for these cars headgaskets) and maintain it.
    Assuming you fix these issues, you will prob be very satisfied with this car. They are Fun!
    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...stem-on-90-S-C
    I've owned the car a week now and learning so much. I've wanted one for many years. I'm going to get the correct thermostat tomorrow. I did try to loosen the bleeder valve near the thermostat but it was very tight was afraid to put too much force on it.

    If it is the IRCM I was looking online but really can't find one that says it's for thecar?
    Last edited by 90blacksc; 06-10-2018 at 01:01 AM.

  9. #24
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    Those bleeder stems can be tight, you have to turn very hard. Is it stripped? If so put some vise grips on it and turn counter clockwise.

    Here is a ircm.

    https://www.tbscshop.com/fan-control...-fully-tested/

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5SpeedRed93 View Post
    if it was the e.c.t. it probably would not show any temp. reading.
    The ECT and the temp gauge/sender are on different circuits. One does not affect the other.
    Last edited by KMT; 06-10-2018 at 10:21 AM.

  11. #26
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    I did try to loosen the bleeder valve near the thermostat but it was very tight was afraid to put too much force on it.
    If not done properly, you'll risk twisting off the bleed tube. There is a 3/4" wrench purchase below the bleed skirt, at the top of the tube. Put an open-end wrench there and hold the tube still so it won't twist, then a 1/2" (?) on the screw and turn it. If it hasn't been apart for some time it -will- fight you. You might want to do this on a workbench when you remove the thermostat housing again, instead, so you can better see what you need to do and use more care, etc. If you damage the thermostat housing/bleed screw, shop for a replacement. Used and reconditioned housing are still available. I think we can still buy billet bleed screws.

    When it's all back together, leave the screw off, then fill the radiator while gently pumping the upper hose - once full, dribble coolant into the bleed screw until it runs out of the filler neck on the radiator, then install a new #16 cap, then top off at the bleeder tube, then install the bleed screw. Add coolant to the expansion tank to the HOT line. After the engine heats up and goes thru at least one cycle of running the fan (low speed), let it sit overnite. When it cools back down completely, it should pull coolant back into the system and if all goes well, the level in the expansion tank should drop to COLD. Don't let the tank go empty or you risk getting air in the system and having to start over.

    If it is the IRCM I was looking online but really can't find one that says it's for the car?
    A code reader live-tests those circuits and their components (EEC, IRCM and fan motor) for you - takes only a couple minutes. The code reader will also help you decide if the ECT/harness is working properly/needs a closer look. You don't know you need an IRCM yet (don't guess), so you have time to keep looking. As I said, I see used ones on eBay at a decent price right now. You can also place an ad here in the parts wanted section. Don't look for one 'for the car'...get the part # off yours and look for it, instead.
    Last edited by KMT; 06-10-2018 at 10:42 AM.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5SpeedRed93 View Post
    Those bleeder stems can be tight, you have to turn very hard. Is it stripped? If so put some vise grips on it and turn counter clockwise.

    Here is a ircm.

    https://www.tbscshop.com/fan-control...-fully-tested/
    Thanks for the info. I'm going to work on it today

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    If not done properly, you'll risk twisting off the bleed tube. There is a 3/4" wrench purchase below the bleed skirt, at the top of the tube. Put an open-end wrench there and hold the tube still so it won't twist, then a 1/2" (?) on the screw and turn it. If it hasn't been apart for some time it -will- fight you. You might want to do this on a workbench when you remove the thermostat housing again, instead, so you can better see what you need to do and use more care, etc. If you damage the thermostat housing/bleed screw, shop for a replacement. Used and reconditioned housing are still available. I think we can still buy billet bleed screws.

    When it's all back together, leave the screw off, then fill the radiator while gently pumping the upper hose - once full, dribble coolant into the bleed screw until it runs out of the filler neck on the radiator, then install a new #16 cap, then top off at the bleeder tube, then install the bleed screw. Add coolant to the expansion tank to the HOT line. After the engine heats up and goes thru at least one cycle of running the fan (low speed), let it sit overnite. When it cools back down completely, it should pull coolant back into the system and if all goes well, the level in the expansion tank should drop to COLD. Don't let the tank go empty or you risk getting air in the system and having to start over.



    A code reader live-tests those circuits and their components (EEC, IRCM and fan motor) for you - takes only a couple minutes. The code reader will also help you decide if the ECT/harness is working properly/needs a closer look. You don't know you need an IRCM yet (don't guess), so you have time to keep looking. As I said, I see used ones on eBay at a decent price right now. You can also place an ad here in the parts wanted section. Don't look for one 'for the car'...get the part # off yours and look for it, instead.

    Thanks for all the info. I'm going to get a new thermostat and work on bleeding the system

  14. #29
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    For those following along, it seems this has been continued in another thread...http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...ng-system-help

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