Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 46 to 54 of 54

Thread: Correct way to fill cooling system help?

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pacific Rim
    Posts
    6,721
    Quote Originally Posted by 90blacksc View Post
    Did I do the test correctly by using the expansion tank?
    That's how I did it when I tried and it showed exhaust gases. As long as you tried when you had a bubble stream, I think.
    Last edited by KMT; 06-25-2018 at 02:33 PM.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    That's how I did it when I tried and it showed exhaust gases. As long as you tried when you had a bubble stream, I think.


    I had a few bubbles pop up the first time I did test and then they have never been present sense. I went on ahead today and went for around 2 to see if I could duplicate the scenario that happened yesterday. The exact same thing happened today where the motor warmed up the fans kicked on cooled it back down to the o on the gauge and then the temperature proceeded to climb and then went back down again to the o. Then the third time it never called back down it climbed up to the m on the gauge and then proceeded to move past that and that was when I shut it down.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    68
    I called 2 places in town t try and see what it would cost to get the original refurbished and they couldn't get me an estimated cost

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pacific Rim
    Posts
    6,721
    Might want to drive in or remove it and let them take a look. Seems fair they're reluctant to quote over the phone, I think...pretty sure they haven't had too many chances to see one

    The stock radiator is brass, BTW, not something with plastic ends tanks which is a bit more common in the last 3 decades.

    Its not that big, so it shouldn't be too expensive, hopefully, unless they take a look and say it's too far gone, or don't want the work and price it so you go away. $175 locally last time I checked, with me removing it from the car (not a bad job) and walking it in. I see replacements on eBay from $175 to $450 + shipping, but there is nothing wrong with continuing to run an original radiator that is in good shape.

    Don't be shy about making a list of things you may want to consider replacing while it's out, from belts and hoses (check the heater hoses that come from the back, around the front to the exchanger at the oil filter, up/around on the pass. side, under the intake tube - see this thread with a diagram shows that path), to the water pump, which in my opinion is easier with the radiator out of the way.
    Last edited by KMT; 06-25-2018 at 10:28 PM.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    68
    How do I test the fan to see if low and high speed work?

    I guess the reason I'm asking this is because I was reading around in the Forum and seeing a post about the cooling fan. My fan does not kick on until the car warms up to the M on the gauge and then it will cool it back down to the o on the gauge. At the moment I stayed at before it's not holding that and it's eventually wanting to run hot again so I was wanting to maybe see when the fan is should come on

    I have replaced the IRCM
    Last edited by 90blacksc; 06-26-2018 at 03:05 PM.

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pacific Rim
    Posts
    6,721
    You may not have needed to replace the IRCM. Keep the spare.

    Kicking on at M, then cooling down is normal. Not coming on until after M is not. Running above M is not, regardless of what the fan does. Bubbles in the expansion tank after bleeding the air and heat cycling a few times is not.

    You've been saying that the car heats up and stays at or above M, tho, which is different from a car where the fan comes on at M and cools to O or N.

    Quote Originally Posted by 90blacksc View Post
    How do I test the fan to see if low and high speed work?
    As mentioned in your other thread, a code reader live-tests those circuits and their components (EEC, IRCM and fan motor) for you - takes only a couple minutes.

    When you do a KOER self-test, one of the first things done is to run the fan via the IRCM. First low speed, then high, but they happen back-to-back (the high speed fan circuit isn't triggered alone...it relies on the fan already being spun up on low to avoid a spiked current load). It might sound like one speed until you listen closely. I suggest doing the test with the code reader connected and standing against the right front corner of the car so you can listen closely.

    If you just want to test the fan alone, pull the connector and patch in with a ground, then add hot to the other two terminals. See this thread for wire colors, and discussion on how to test the IRCM and fan by tapping into the wiring at the IRCM: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...dditional-fans
    Last edited by KMT; 06-26-2018 at 05:17 PM.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    You may not have needed to replace the IRCM. Keep the spare.

    Kicking on at M, then cooling down is normal. Not coming on until after M is not. Running above M is not, regardless of what the fan does. Bubbles in the expansion tank after bleeding the air and heat cycling a few times is not.

    You've been saying that the car heats up and stays at or above M, tho, which is different from a car where the fan comes on at M and cools to O or N.



    As mentioned in your other thread, a code reader live-tests those circuits and their components (EEC, IRCM and fan motor) for you - takes only a couple minutes.

    When you do a KOER self-test, one of the first things done is to run the fan via the IRCM. First low speed, then high, but they happen back-to-back (the high speed fan circuit isn't triggered alone...it relies on the fan already being spun up on low to avoid a spiked current load). It might sound like one speed until you listen closely. I suggest doing the test with the code reader connected and standing against the right front corner of the car so you can listen closely.

    If you just want to test the fan alone, pull the connector and patch in with a ground, then add hot to the other two terminals. See this thread for wire colors, and discussion on how to test the IRCM and fan by tapping into the wiring at the IRCM: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...dditional-fans
    I ordered the diagnostic test that you provided in the link before so that will be here soon. I went on ahead and just see if I can get the car to duplicate the problem. The car runs and will stay in between the o and the r on the gauge for a while and then after it is at operating temperature for about 10 minutes or so it will then continue to climb past the m. But the car starts fine and the temperature Hold Steady midway's on the temp gauge for a while so the problem must be something that's functioning improperly once the temperature is at operating temperature for a while. The only thing I can think of is that once that radiator gets heated up it's starting to malfunction some point

    I am going to pull the radiator out and take it to a local shop and have them look at that one and see if it needs any repair I know outside of it it's looking pretty rough so I'm going to have somebody look at it

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    68
    Just wanted to give everyone an update on the car. Had the radiator tested and this is what's been causing the problem. Put a new radiator in from Radiator Express and the car is running cool now. Next project is the brakes

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pacific Rim
    Posts
    6,721
    Thanks for the update - good luck w/it.

    Bonus tip: These cars seem to love Water Wetter I'm a fan.

    Ken

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •