Correct way to fill cooling system help?

Be careful if you opt to simply replace the temp sender - all too easy to get a mismatch now. There was originally a dealer recall on some early models where the gauge was scaring owners and they swapped in a matched pair sender and gauge that read a bit lower and acted differently so as to reduce concern. Not sure there are too many different choices if you buy a new sender today, so you could risk having one that incorrectly reads high/misbehaves, or just as easily gett one that is spot on. Another reason to work with an IR temp gun so you work on actionable data, etc.

I'd would simply make sure the push-on connector is clean/shiny, no corrosion on it or the sender stem, then gently squeeze it a tiny bit so it firmly grabs and holds onto the stem when connected. Don't forget to add a bit of connector grease/dielectric paste. If the connector is damaged/badly corroded, buy a new one and splice it on.
 
Did they swap both?

The TSB I have ( 95132 ) only covers an improperly made sending unit that fails and reads low; the W/O is to replace the sending unit (if date code 2774 or earlier) with a later one.

That was for part # F1SZ-10884-A .

Nothing about the gauge there.

Do you have the TSB you're referring to?

There's a later one for sending units that indicate HIGH ... but they weren't originally in our cars, so not part of the TSB list for a MN12/FN10.

RwP
 
Last edited:
Ralph:

You may be missing the point. Sending units we can buy new today don't take any of the original variations into account and what is sold is liable to be generic. I'd want to know that there was a distinct issue with the original, and stick with if at all possible, and not just throw a new generic sender in for grins.

Last time I changed mine, it was because I changed the cluster (out of a '91) and wanted the feel good of installing the sender from the same donor SC at the same time, just to make sure the gauge was happy. When I got my car, the gauge always read low because the connector was loose. I was aware of 95132 at the time, but I have no idea if it had been performed on my car in the past.

If you've had to change yours on an early SC recently, that feedback could be of help to the OP.

If you just want to discuss TSBs, feel free to pm with your email and we can dive down the rabbit hole together & not clutter the OPs thread ;)

Ken
 
Ralph:

You may be missing the point. Sending units we can buy new today don't take any of the original variations into account and what is sold is liable to be generic. I'd want to know that there was a distinct issue with the original, and stick with if at all possible, and not just throw a new generic sender in for grins.

Last time I changed mine, it was because I changed the cluster (out of a '91) and wanted the feel good of installing the sender from the same donor SC at the same time, just to make sure the gauge was happy. When I got my car, the gauge always read low because the connector was loose. I was aware of 95132 at the time, but I have no idea if it had been performed on my car in the past.

If you've had to change yours on an early SC recently, that feedback could be of help to the OP.

If you just want to discuss TSBs, feel free to pm with your email and we can dive down the rabbit hole together & not clutter the OPs thread ;)

Ken

I have checked the connector on the sending unit I think my next step is going to be a radiator because I know by the looks of this radiator it's probably due for a change.
 
I know by the looks of this radiator it's probably due for a change.

I replaced mine w/aluminum a while back - some are a better fit and better quality than others. Not sure what's out there now, so be prepared to do your homework. Might be worth seeing what a local shop would want to rehab yours.
 
That's how I did it when I tried and it showed exhaust gases. As long as you tried when you had a bubble stream, I think.



I had a few bubbles pop up the first time I did test and then they have never been present sense. I went on ahead today and went for around 2 to see if I could duplicate the scenario that happened yesterday. The exact same thing happened today where the motor warmed up the fans kicked on cooled it back down to the o on the gauge and then the temperature proceeded to climb and then went back down again to the o. Then the third time it never called back down it climbed up to the m on the gauge and then proceeded to move past that and that was when I shut it down.
 
I called 2 places in town t try and see what it would cost to get the original refurbished and they couldn't get me an estimated cost
 
Might want to drive in or remove it and let them take a look. Seems fair they're reluctant to quote over the phone, I think...pretty sure they haven't had too many chances to see one ;)

The stock radiator is brass, BTW, not something with plastic ends tanks which is a bit more common in the last 3 decades.

Its not that big, so it shouldn't be too expensive, hopefully, unless they take a look and say it's too far gone, or don't want the work and price it so you go away. $175 locally last time I checked, with me removing it from the car (not a bad job) and walking it in. I see replacements on eBay from $175 to $450 + shipping, but there is nothing wrong with continuing to run an original radiator that is in good shape.

Don't be shy about making a list of things you may want to consider replacing while it's out, from belts and hoses (check the heater hoses that come from the back, around the front to the exchanger at the oil filter, up/around on the pass. side, under the intake tube - see this thread with a diagram shows that path), to the water pump, which in my opinion is easier with the radiator out of the way.
 
Last edited:
How do I test the fan to see if low and high speed work?

I guess the reason I'm asking this is because I was reading around in the Forum and seeing a post about the cooling fan. My fan does not kick on until the car warms up to the M on the gauge and then it will cool it back down to the o on the gauge. At the moment I stayed at before it's not holding that and it's eventually wanting to run hot again so I was wanting to maybe see when the fan is should come on

I have replaced the IRCM
 
Last edited:
You may not have needed to replace the IRCM. Keep the spare.

Kicking on at M, then cooling down is normal. Not coming on until after M is not. Running above M is not, regardless of what the fan does. Bubbles in the expansion tank after bleeding the air and heat cycling a few times is not.

You've been saying that the car heats up and stays at or above M, tho, which is different from a car where the fan comes on at M and cools to O or N.

How do I test the fan to see if low and high speed work?

As mentioned in your other thread, a code reader live-tests those circuits and their components (EEC, IRCM and fan motor) for you - takes only a couple minutes.

When you do a KOER self-test, one of the first things done is to run the fan via the IRCM. First low speed, then high, but they happen back-to-back (the high speed fan circuit isn't triggered alone...it relies on the fan already being spun up on low to avoid a spiked current load). It might sound like one speed until you listen closely. I suggest doing the test with the code reader connected and standing against the right front corner of the car so you can listen closely.

If you just want to test the fan alone, pull the connector and patch in with a ground, then add hot to the other two terminals. See this thread for wire colors, and discussion on how to test the IRCM and fan by tapping into the wiring at the IRCM: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...ed-Also-need-advice-on-adding-additional-fans
 
Last edited:
You may not have needed to replace the IRCM. Keep the spare.

Kicking on at M, then cooling down is normal. Not coming on until after M is not. Running above M is not, regardless of what the fan does. Bubbles in the expansion tank after bleeding the air and heat cycling a few times is not.

You've been saying that the car heats up and stays at or above M, tho, which is different from a car where the fan comes on at M and cools to O or N.



As mentioned in your other thread, a code reader live-tests those circuits and their components (EEC, IRCM and fan motor) for you - takes only a couple minutes.

When you do a KOER self-test, one of the first things done is to run the fan via the IRCM. First low speed, then high, but they happen back-to-back (the high speed fan circuit isn't triggered alone...it relies on the fan already being spun up on low to avoid a spiked current load). It might sound like one speed until you listen closely. I suggest doing the test with the code reader connected and standing against the right front corner of the car so you can listen closely.

If you just want to test the fan alone, pull the connector and patch in with a ground, then add hot to the other two terminals. See this thread for wire colors, and discussion on how to test the IRCM and fan by tapping into the wiring at the IRCM: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...ed-Also-need-advice-on-adding-additional-fans

I ordered the diagnostic test that you provided in the link before so that will be here soon. I went on ahead and just see if I can get the car to duplicate the problem. The car runs and will stay in between the o and the r on the gauge for a while and then after it is at operating temperature for about 10 minutes or so it will then continue to climb past the m. But the car starts fine and the temperature Hold Steady midway's on the temp gauge for a while so the problem must be something that's functioning improperly once the temperature is at operating temperature for a while. The only thing I can think of is that once that radiator gets heated up it's starting to malfunction some point

I am going to pull the radiator out and take it to a local shop and have them look at that one and see if it needs any repair I know outside of it it's looking pretty rough so I'm going to have somebody look at it
 
Just wanted to give everyone an update on the car. Had the radiator tested and this is what's been causing the problem. Put a new radiator in from Radiator Express and the car is running cool now. Next project is the brakes
 
Back
Top