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pock1

Registered User
hi guys my 94 sc auto has a few pain in the @#$%^& problems that has me stumped. !. antilock brake light stays on....along with traction control is off. cant get a code from my snap on code reader (ford uses super star 2 mode...and i get nothing from the scanner in that mode) am i missing some software,plugs?...........2........ HIGH idle on the tb (85mm). on startup it just after 1100rpm then kicks down to 900rpms which seems fine.but problem 3...... put in drive brakes not stopping car as it should . i did check all my vacume lines hoses, etc. can"t find or hear nothing. ...talked to dd and tried a few things....no good.:mad: no c e l light. awhile back did a smoke test..all was sealed, did the spray bottle test.nothing....all of parts were up graded a new parts were installed. so high idle in drive not stopping car and not dropping lower making the car hard to stop. so ud say vac leak..........ok where? new master cyl bleed the brakes to get all the air out. im out of things to check n read.......smh.:confused:
 
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04

You can jumper the connector and read the codes right at the ABS light in the vehicle.

i thought u could only do that with c e l, i tried that. since theres only 3 wires and 1 is the ground, green wire?. i tried that 2 weeks ago.. so either i have short to ground somewhere and i followed the connector to the frame and no wires are touching.
 
Tony:

Let's try to break this down so it's a bit easier to read....
my 94 sc auto

!. antilock brake light stays on....along with traction control is off. cant get a code from my snap on code reader (ford uses super star 2 mode...and i get nothing from the scanner in that mode) am i missing some software,plugs?...........

Is another car handy you can confirm your snap on reader on for ABS? Hate to recommend it, but have you considered letting a dealer try to pull codes for you?

2........ HIGH idle on the tb (85mm). on startup it just after 1100rpm then kicks down to 900rpms which seems fine.but problem

Assuming 900 is in D (I'd expect closer to 650~700), what is idle in N? Have you confirmed the throttle plate is closed when engine off? Made sure carpet or floormat isn't binding the gas pedal? Does the idle go lower with the throttle cable disconnected?

3...... put in drive brakes not stopping car as it should .

did the spray bottle test.nothing....all of parts were up graded a new parts were installed. so high idle in drive not stopping car and not dropping lower making the car hard to stop. so ud say vac leak..........ok where? .

Just so you know, spray bottle testing is rarely worth the trouble - the EEC will correct idle and mask any effect, making it appear no vacuum leaks. Smoke test should be reliable, tho.

Any EEC codes?

new master cyl bleed the brakes to get all the air out

Sorry if I missed it, but was the new MC because of the light and not stopping as should, or light and not stopping as it should occured _after_ new MC? Did you use the late model ABS bleed tool?

Ken
 
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Good lord, does anyone read the posts before responding?

Says he has a 94 so some one posts the ABS trouble shooting for an 89-92

First post says he has a code reader but cant get anything from ABS codes ..so he gets told to buy a code reader and how to use it on OBD1 for CEL. First post says he has no CEL ...smh

Wish I had a solution or suggestion for ya Tony...but damn .

-Tim
 
94

Good lord, does anyone read the posts before responding?

Says he has a 94 so some one posts the ABS trouble shooting for an 89-92

First post says he has a code reader but cant get anything from ABS codes ..so he gets told to buy a code reader and how to use it on OBD1 for CEL. First post says he has no CEL ...smh

Wish I had a solution or suggestion for ya Tony...but damn .

-Tim

lol sup tim hope all is well with u and family. kmt i'll check a few things u brought out that i didn't think about. my 94 sc just sits as i sort out these problem, since i came back from carlisle in 2015 maybe i put 200 miles on it bc of many upgrades..............( all i wanted a free flowing exhaust, 94-95 have egr.so i done away with it........and wham..................all went down hill) once i broke of the 3 bolts on passenger side exhaust manny and were stuck in the head......that lead to..machine shop....upgraded tb.injectors,fuel pump.and chip.....ask IRA , DAMNON i was texting them on pointers and dave d. dave said .tony check for vacuum leaks.......ok kool. with the weather be so craxy i could;t work on till may( no garage) bc my other sc was in it. off goes blower, etc ..............found loose bolts on the intake. .........i was told....aslong as all the vacuums are sealed.i should be good...not smoke test done last month..........tb gasket(teflon) no good.. if i can get somebody who has pics of the vacuum hoses behind the MAGNUM POWERS ...so i can see where to put the vacuum lines. i have no c e l light......all parts are new and from ford.
 
Doing good man! Hope you are also!

You have a Quarter Horse on the car right? Why don't you just adjust the idle in Binary Editor?

-Tim
 
Doing good man! Hope you are also!

You have a Quarter Horse on the car right? Why don't you just adjust the idle in Binary Editor?

-Tim

Now think about that Tim. lol
If he had a quarter horse that would have been the first thing we did.
 
vac leak

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i found 1 vac leak on the plenum.. a small hose had collapsed in the rear.smh idle has come down a bit.....starts up 1100rpm then kicks down to 900 rpm, i shirt into drive...goes down to 600 rpms, i shift into n......600 rpms. way much easier to stop car now . Question what is (normal ) idle with all the mods i have.........ch mikes upgraded sc, 85mm tb 76mm tb with purple samp tube , #42 pd injectors , ported intake to match heads , MAGNUM POWERS inlet (egr delete) , headers (egr delete) ceramic cats , borla mufflers. up graded spark wires, demon coil pack (gotta change my plugs for the fords double plts.........upon test drive my oil gauge temp is almost dipping into the red.....then goes back up..........bad gauge? oil is full. thx guys .
 
.upon test drive my oil gauge temp is almost dipping into the red.....then goes back up..........bad gauge? oil is full. thx guys .

I'd more likely bet the connector at the sending unit or switch.

Have you done the "honest sending unit" mod or is it still the factory "idjit gauge"?

RwP
 
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i found 1 vac leak on the plenum..

That's all it takes sometimes.

oil gauge temp is almost dipping into the red.....then goes back up..........bad gauge? oil is full

Temp? You mean the stock gauge? If stock, that's just pressure, and only an indication you have some...or not - check the connector at the sender to be sure it's clean and has a snug fit. Still no joy, replace the sender.
 
94 sc

That's all it takes sometimes.



Temp? You mean the stock gauge? If stock, that's just pressure, and only an indication you have some...or not - check the connector at the sender to be sure it's clean and has a snug fit. Still no joy, replace the sender.

yes the gauge in the dash. i checked a few things today . wire was lose on the gauge now dash gauge is flowing good. to satisfy my mind. i swapped tbs with my 95 sc ( 76mm) still idle is same didn't drop. so .i called DD who made my chip and he's checking on it. maybe he changed the idle.
 
The idle is set for 700rpm in drive. It will have a higher idle than that until it reaches operating temperature of 190 deg. Brakes should have no trouble holding that, but I can set it back to stock if you want. Keep in mind that your tach is probably way off, so who knows what it might read. If you jacked with the TB it's totally possible that you are forcing a higher than commanded idle speed. You need to check actual warm idle speed with a digital device of some sort (scanner, etc.).
 
94 sc

The idle is set for 700rpm in drive. It will have a higher idle than that until it reaches operating temperature of 190 deg. Brakes should have no trouble holding that, but I can set it back to stock if you want. Keep in mind that your tach is probably way off, so who knows what it might read. If you jacked with the TB it's totally possible that you are forcing a higher than commanded idle speed. You need to check actual warm idle speed with a digital device of some sort (scanner, etc.).
i was working on the car over the weekend, when car is warmed up in drive idle is at 700rpm .i found another broken hose(rubber line on rail going to purge canister.) .at park it;s 1000 rpm, checked vac @ mcyl and check valve not clogged. was wandering if the 94-95 sc came with proportion valves? my 93 has 1 but the 94 i cant find:confused: when i looked on the under the front tire(followed the brakes lines) all is see 2 lines going into a coupler that goes to the rear brakes. the mcyl was changed with a remain and the shop bled the lines...............im thinking they didn't do it the right way . i've tried pulling codes with scanner, and paper clips.no go
 
up date

so i;ve been reading through the post on abs and traction control. my snap on scanner didn't pick up any codes.(maybe not updated the anti lock systems...) i bought a actron scanner for $25 a year ago...........ok let me give it a shot.....what i have to lose..........bam 2 sec it comes up with 3 blinks pause 2 blinks, .then 3 blinks pause 1 blink..........code 31, 32 front wheel speed sensers. :eek: i replaced , cleaned tooth rings no missing teeth.post says i need EEC BREAK OUT BOX TO CHECK OHMS 800-1400 OHMS.OR REPLACE SENSORS.. these sensors ARE NO LONGER AVA. my front hubs have no play in them and spins freely. no wires broken...i'll have to check the ohms wit ha meter and gap.atleast i know the what wrong, getting brand new abs wheel speed sensors is the problem. standard used to make them but nomore. rockauto no longer carries the front.EBAY.....u will be looking for hrs. SO high idle fixed........founf bad vac lines and bad IAC......anti-lock brake light and traction asst off.....cause....front abs wheel speed sensors..............it only took me 8 months to figure it out:eek:
 
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