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Thread: solved

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pacific Rim
    Posts
    6,727
    Quote Originally Posted by pock1 View Post
    ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i found 1 vac leak on the plenum..
    That's all it takes sometimes.

    oil gauge temp is almost dipping into the red.....then goes back up..........bad gauge? oil is full
    Temp? You mean the stock gauge? If stock, that's just pressure, and only an indication you have some...or not - check the connector at the sender to be sure it's clean and has a snug fit. Still no joy, replace the sender.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    ny\long island
    Posts
    2,694

    94 sc

    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    That's all it takes sometimes.



    Temp? You mean the stock gauge? If stock, that's just pressure, and only an indication you have some...or not - check the connector at the sender to be sure it's clean and has a snug fit. Still no joy, replace the sender.
    yes the gauge in the dash. i checked a few things today . wire was lose on the gauge now dash gauge is flowing good. to satisfy my mind. i swapped tbs with my 95 sc ( 76mm) still idle is same didn't drop. so .i called DD who made my chip and he's checking on it. maybe he changed the idle.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Madison, Ohio
    Posts
    17,589
    The idle is set for 700rpm in drive. It will have a higher idle than that until it reaches operating temperature of 190 deg. Brakes should have no trouble holding that, but I can set it back to stock if you want. Keep in mind that your tach is probably way off, so who knows what it might read. If you jacked with the TB it's totally possible that you are forcing a higher than commanded idle speed. You need to check actual warm idle speed with a digital device of some sort (scanner, etc.).
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    ny\long island
    Posts
    2,694

    94 sc

    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    The idle is set for 700rpm in drive. It will have a higher idle than that until it reaches operating temperature of 190 deg. Brakes should have no trouble holding that, but I can set it back to stock if you want. Keep in mind that your tach is probably way off, so who knows what it might read. If you jacked with the TB it's totally possible that you are forcing a higher than commanded idle speed. You need to check actual warm idle speed with a digital device of some sort (scanner, etc.).
    i was working on the car over the weekend, when car is warmed up in drive idle is at 700rpm .i found another broken hose(rubber line on rail going to purge canister.) .at park it;s 1000 rpm, checked vac @ mcyl and check valve not clogged. was wandering if the 94-95 sc came with proportion valves? my 93 has 1 but the 94 i cant find when i looked on the under the front tire(followed the brakes lines) all is see 2 lines going into a coupler that goes to the rear brakes. the mcyl was changed with a remain and the shop bled the lines...............im thinking they didn't do it the right way . i've tried pulling codes with scanner, and paper clips.no go

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    ny\long island
    Posts
    2,694

    up date

    so i;ve been reading through the post on abs and traction control. my snap on scanner didn't pick up any codes.(maybe not updated the anti lock systems...) i bought a actron scanner for $25 a year ago...........ok let me give it a shot.....what i have to lose..........bam 2 sec it comes up with 3 blinks pause 2 blinks, .then 3 blinks pause 1 blink..........code 31, 32 front wheel speed sensers. i replaced , cleaned tooth rings no missing teeth.post says i need EEC BREAK OUT BOX TO CHECK OHMS 800-1400 OHMS.OR REPLACE SENSORS.. these sensors ARE NO LONGER AVA. my front hubs have no play in them and spins freely. no wires broken...i'll have to check the ohms wit ha meter and gap.atleast i know the what wrong, getting brand new abs wheel speed sensors is the problem. standard used to make them but nomore. rockauto no longer carries the front.EBAY.....u will be looking for hrs. SO high idle fixed........founf bad vac lines and bad IAC......anti-lock brake light and traction asst off.....cause....front abs wheel speed sensors..............it only took me 8 months to figure it out

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    1,287
    Quote Originally Posted by potshotscott View Post
    You can jumper the connector and read the codes right at the ABS light in the vehicle.
    I've been searching for a diagram on how to do this with the ABS on a 94. I also have the brake light and traction lights running continuously
    1994 white sc (Daily Driver)
    15 year sc owner
    SCCoA Member #: 3774

    View the car http://www.sccoa.com/forums/garage_v...vehicle&id=107

    UP THE IRONS!!!

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    ny\long island
    Posts
    2,694

    amber abs light

    Quote Originally Posted by scskydivin View Post
    I've been searching for a diagram on how to do this with the ABS on a 94. I also have the brake light and traction lights running continuously
    i too have tried jumping the abs ,some how never worked for me. i used the actron ford c e l code reader that blinks , beeps lol. i plugged it in the abs plug turn on ( don't start car)...amber antilock indicator on dash blinked out the code.

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