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Thread: Code 61

  1. #1
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    Code 61

    Fan issue again code 51 and 61. Any idea where it find problem? Replaced all tested and both can speeds come on. I am at loss!

  2. #2
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    Those are ECT codes - the 'engine cooling temp' sender that sits at the front of the pass. side valve cover, up, behind the A/C compressor.

    What parts did you replace, exactly? How did you test?

  3. #3
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    Good morning

    What is the coolant temperature the EEC is seeing? A scan tool with live data is required. You are looking for low speed fan to start somewhere around 212 F and high around 228 F. Check the fan connector for evidence of burning/overheating especially at the orange/black wire. With the engine off and cool check the radiator servicing. With the engine running check the recovery tank for excessive air bubbles. You might have air in the coolant system.

  4. #4
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    Replaced ECT and other temp sensor. Fan works at other speeds when disconnected.

  5. #5
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    No burnt wires.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90redsc View Post
    Replaced ECT and other temp sensor. Fan works at other speeds when disconnected.
    So you had the codes before, and changing the ECT didn't make them go away, then... What was the issue when you first ran the codes in that example? You said 'fan issue'....was that what started all this, or were you just checking codes and 51/61 popped up?

    Was everything ok, and you ran the codes just as a check, and then found 51/61? Is the cooling system working properly? Any other work done when you changed the ECT?

    Does the fan go lo/hi speed when starting code read?

    Does the fan come on when you start the car and turn on the A/C?

  7. #7
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    Issue started sometime ago and I decided to wait until I had time. Both fan speeds come on during testing. Fan comes on with A/C. I had taken out the fan before and hooked a battery up and both high and low speed work.

  8. #8
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    So outside of the codes, there are no issues.

    Maybe the code reader/process to clear stored codes isn't working.

  9. #9
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    But the fan does not come on when the engine heats up.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90redsc View Post
    But the fan does not come on when the engine heats up.
    Ah, sorry, I lost track between testing and using.

    Seen this before where the connectors inside the ECT connector opened up and failed to make good contact - corrosion doesn't help either.

    Do you know how to de-pin the connector so you can get at them and clean & squeeze them smaller/tighter?

    If you're tempted to monitor the ECT sensor output, see this thread (I prefer to check volts now, not ohms).

  11. #11
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    I am not familar with Di-pinng a connector. Should I begin by tracing the wiring from the ECT backward?

  12. #12
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    De-pin means to remove the pins from the connector. There are special tools to make the job easier....you risk damaging things if you work without them. The metal connectors are designed so they are easy to insert into the connector, but not come out without taking steps. I think for the ECT connector, each metal wire end has two tangs that protrude out and lock/keep them from coming out when they are fully inserted into the connector. The metal connectors are small split tubes that slide onto pins in the sender. The tool is a tube that slides over the end of the metal connector, pushing the ears inwards so you can pull the wire end out of the plastic connector.

    Example of the tool (you want the round tube style for this job):
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-Automoti...0AAOSwxQJbGBbi

    I'd recommend having an assortment of these when owning/working on an SC

    You'd remove the connector off the ECT, then find something like a small screwdriver or metal dentist pick and work to remove the rubber gasket that surrounds the wires going into the plastic ECT connector. Slide the gasket up the wires a bit, then use the de-pinning tool from the other end to unlock each metal connector so you can gently pull the wire/metal connector free. I'd do them one at a time to avoid confusion getting them back in the correct location.

    Use small pliers/needle nose etc. to squeeze the split metal connector so that when re-assembled, it fits tighter on the corresponding pin on the sender - feel free to test on the sender to confirm you get it right...not too loose and not too tight, keeping in mind each time the connector and sender are mated, they get stretched out a bit. Don't forget to add a bit of connector dielectric grease before reassembling. When all metal connectors are done and inserted, work the gasket back into the end of the plastic connector.

    ...or.... remove the connector off the sender, look inside with a good light, find some good needle nose pliers that are smaller than bigger (not a lot of room to work in there and get it right), and gently squeeze each down just a bit. Don't collapse or crush. Be patient, gentle and careful. Sometimes this is all that's needed, as long as the metal-to-metal contact is clean and snug.

    If you find that any of the metal connectors are damaged and/or badly corroded and or not seated/positioned correctly, you may need to source a new/fresh connector and splice it in, instead of trying to rehab the one you have. Make sure to inspect the pins on the sender to confirm none have plunged down into the body of the sender. I've had this happen and it took a while to uncover.

  13. #13
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    I'll give it a try this weekend. And again, thanks for the help.

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