New member - ABS issue, Teves MKII ABS pump

Thought I might be in trouble in the beginning when I had to google how to take off the wiper arms...

Not an easy task getting that assembly out of there.
Will definitely get some extra hands when it comes time to install.

Very tight fit but really not too bad coming out.
No spiraled lines, nothing damaged or broken, no cussing.

Surgery on the pump hopefully tomorrow.

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Capped/taped open brake lines...you 'da man.

Funny how the car shows lo miles and the pump body screams old age. Good news is I don't see that it ever leaked. Strange it didn't live longer tho...wonder if it just needs the armature burnished.

No problem lining up the drive key when re-assembling when the unit is off the car.

I'd replace the pressure switch before re-installing. Accumulator can be done later if needed. I did a write up on that process, so yell if you need a link.

About the wipers - be sure to keep track of the small plastic index keepers and note the wiper arms are marked L & R.

Very tight fit

Wait until you have to change spark plugs ;)
 
Capped/taped open brake lines...you 'da man.

Funny how the car shows lo miles and the pump body screams old age. Good news is I don't see that it ever leaked. Strange it didn't live longer tho...wonder if it just needs the armature burnished.

No problem lining up the drive key when re-assembling when the unit is off the car.

I'd replace the pressure switch before re-installing. Accumulator can be done later if needed. I did a write up on that process, so yell if you need a link.

About the wipers - be sure to keep track of the small plastic index keepers and note the wiper arms are marked L & R.


Wait until you have to change spark plugs ;)

Thanks for all the heads up & tips.
Someone has been in here before. Evidence (disassembly markings) on one the connectors shows me it's been messed with before.
They always took the car to the dealer when needing service.

With the motor housing looking rusty, wonder if it had a sticky relay or pressure switch causing the motor to run for long periods, getting hot & baking off the paint?
Just thinking out loud.
Will do on the pressure switch.

I marked with tape the arms L & R and also put some tape on the windshield to line up the wipers for install later.
Think I just left the keepers (round plastic circles on the pivot) in place.
Will check tomorrow.

Hope the plugs aren’t much worse than a 98 Expedition V8 Triton I had.
Half the engine was behind the firewall.
Used many of my 1/4” & 3/8” extensions, universals, etc., and a good half day to get that job done.
 
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Some harness markings are factory assembly checks.

Typical hints that someone has gone before on an SC are broken connector tabs (brittle w/age and/or impatient technician), harness sections that don't lay properly because they weren't reinstalled in order, damaged/un-sunk harness tab barbs (taped into the harness, usually white, like the one suspending a harness off the wiper motor frame, but I've seen grey and black) and of course missing parts/brackets, etc.

First thing I did when you posted the engine compartment photo was to check for previous repairs...the air intake tube has been off, and the upper radiator hose & plug wires aren't original. Some things appear a tad rough for just 53k miles. Might be someone already did the head gaskets...not sure from here. Also, and it might just be parallax in the image, but the engine seems a bit tilted... I think you should check your motor mounts, driver's side, specifically. See if the oil filter is cramped.

Does the odometer still work?

W/the keepers in place, wiper alignment is default...they will only sit/park in one location. If they came to you misaligned, then the keepers most likely went missing some time in the past.

We're told the pump motor has a thermal protection circuit, but that doesn't mean it can't be spun up more often than normal. Usual culprit is a bad/failing accumulator that won't hold enough reserve pressure - I think we've had reports of stuck relays. I think a pressure switch fail would be non-op, vs. overrun. But yes, that motor does appear a bit baked. Can't wait to see what you find inside.

Might be there are other ABS issues waiting to be uncovered, which goes back to my original list.
 
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Typical hints that someone has gone before on an SC are broken connector tabs (brittle w/age and/or impatient technician), harness sections that don't lay properly because they weren't reinstalled in order, damaged/un-sunk harness tab barbs (taped into the harness, usually white, like the one suspending a harness off the wiper motor frame, but I've seen grey and black) and of course missing parts/brackets, etc.

Yep, all of those are sure give-aways the previous mechanic didn't take the time to do it right. Definitely noticed some of that.

First thing I did when you posted the engine compartment photo was to check for previous repairs...the air intake tube has been off, and the upper radiator hose & plug wires aren't original. Some things appear a tad rough for just 53k miles. Might be someone already did the head gaskets...not sure from here. Also, and it might just be parallax in the image, but the engine seems a bit tilted... I think you should check your motor mounts, driver's side, specifically. See if the oil filter is cramped.

Reading that the head gaskets have been an issue in the past, they could very well have been replaced. I see other indications here and there that let me know work has been done.
I worked with the previous owners son for 20 years. Owner was retired Ford management. Am absolutely sure all work was done at a Ford dealership. Looks like some was Monday morning work though.

Will check drivers side mount. Tks.

Does the odometer still work?

Yes. I reset the trip meter at purchase. Have driven it 66 miles so far. Was offered and almost bought this car 12 years ago. Mileage then was around 40k~45k as I recall.
It would have been my oldest daughter's first car. Fortunately, she didn't really like the style and I thought it might be a bit much for a first car...:eek:

W/the keepers in place, wiper alignment is default...they will only sit/park in one location. If they came to you misaligned, then the keepers most likely went missing some time in the past.

That's all good.

We're told the pump motor has a thermal protection circuit, but that doesn't mean it can't be spun up more often than normal. Usual culprit is a bad/failing accumulator that won't hold enough reserve pressure - I think we've had reports of stuck relays. I think a pressure switch fail would be non-op, vs. overrun. But yes, that motor does appear a bit baked. Can't wait to see what you find inside.

Might be there are other ABS issues waiting to be uncovered, which goes back to my original list.

Hopefully know more today on this.


.... And thanks for the heads up & link on the bench bleed.
EVTM ordered a few days ago and Shop manual yesterday.
 
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If you go the route of rebuilding the motor, do a search here for some tips and pics. It requires some unsoldering and since the end is dog-eared on, you have to chisel the tabs open to remove the cap. You'll see all that when you look at it.

My guess is you probably will find a fair amount of debris and buildup from leaking brake fluid on the inside.. a sure sign that a new shaft seal is needed. Thats also the time to check the condition of the thermal switch and the motor brushes. A tip for pushing the armature and plastic case out, is to push a rod the same size as the shaft onto the pump end, and use it to hammer the whole thing out. The plastic sleeve should move out slightly with each hit until you can grab onto it. Clean, inspect, and fix as needed, and I'd recommend a new seal.

Pay attention to the condition of the thermal switch. I mention that because I've seen 2 of them detached and I had to scratch my head and figure out how to resolder them back into place.

This will all make sense when you look at the motor.
 
........... But yes, that motor does appear a bit baked. Can't wait to see what you find inside.

If you go the route of rebuilding the motor, .......
My guess is you probably will find a fair amount of debris and buildup from leaking brake fluid on the inside.. a sure sign that a new shaft seal is needed. Thats also the time to check the condition of the thermal switch and the motor brushes.

Thanks guys,
Don't think I'll be rebuilding this one.
Even if it did clean up, one of the magnets is cracked.
Could have been my "wake-up" taps but not sure. Doesn't really matter now though.....

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1 other remark.. regarding the pump itself.. If the pump is gummed up, the motor may spin it but it will not prime and it will not build pressure. :(

Pull it apart and clean thoroughly. Note the position of the cover plate. You can get that cover plate out by repeatedly knocking it on something solid, like a counter top. Throughly clean the race, seals, balls, and passages.

When done, it should spin easily with your fingers. Refill with a 1/2 ounce or so of brake fluid to help with priming it. Spin by hand and let it sit up to allow air to bubble up and out.

Then reassemble the motor to the pump, don't forget the "key" and the screen, oring, and the case seal.

Reattach to the teves case.. DO NOT ATTACH the accumulator just yet. Prime the pump by running the motor and letting fluid flow through the rubber hose, from the reservoir, until you see fluid bubble up and push out the accumulator hole.. If fluid won't come out the hole.. the system won't pressurize.. Usually tapping on the pump with the motor running should get it working.
Then install and tighten the accumulator.

Then you're ready to reinstall the entire thing in the car and bleed the lines.
 
Hmm...seal must have been leaking for a long time. Funny the motor waited until after you got home to lock up....maybe that was when the magnet broke up.

Bag and tag the parts - someone might be able use them to resurrect another motor.
 
1 other remark.. regarding the pump itself.. If the pump is gummed up, the motor may spin it but it will not prime and it will not build pressure. :(

Pull it apart and clean thoroughly. Note the position of the cover plate. You can get that cover plate out by repeatedly knocking it on something solid, like a counter top. Throughly clean the race, seals, balls, and passages.

When done, it should spin easily with your fingers. Refill with a 1/2 ounce or so of brake fluid to help with priming it. Spin by hand and let it sit up to allow air to bubble up and out.

Then reassemble the motor to the pump, don't forget the "key" and the screen, oring, and the case seal.

Reattach to the teves case.. DO NOT ATTACH the accumulator just yet. Prime the pump by running the motor and letting fluid flow through the rubber hose, from the reservoir, until you see fluid bubble up and push out the accumulator hole.. If fluid won't come out the hole.. the system won't pressurize.. Usually tapping on the pump with the motor running should get it working.
Then install and tighten the accumulator.

Then you're ready to reinstall the entire thing in the car and bleed the lines.

TbirdSC,

Fluid was pretty clear and no debris in/on the filter.
Will follow this procedure as soon as I can get another pump here.

Thanks so much for that.

Ken
 
Hmm...seal must have been leaking for a long time. Funny the motor waited until after you got home to lock up....maybe that was when the magnet broke up.

Bag and tag the parts - someone might be able use them to resurrect another motor.

Anyone's guess on how long, when, where, etc.
Does look to me like it's been a while but I have no idea.
Will clean it all up for someone to use later.

Ken
 
Got the new pump in the mail yesterday.
Hopefully, between the info gathered from this forum and my shop manual, I'll be able to get this correctly installed.

Plan is to "bench bleed" the pump while the unit is off the car, install, bleed master cylinder, then bleed lines /calipers..

Going in.. Wish me luck!

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Got the new pump in the mail yesterday.
Hopefully, between the info gathered from this forum and my shop manual, I'll be able to get this correctly installed.

Plan is to "bench bleed" the pump while the unit is off the car, install, bleed master cylinder, then bleed lines /calipers..

Going in.. Wish me luck!

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Sounds like the way to do it. Good luck.
 
Success.. so far.

Turned on the key, heard the pump run for 20 seconds or so, then it shut off.
Anti lock and Brake lights extinguished. Yes..

Need to finish bleeding front and rear brake lines. Was getting late, needed a pedal pusher.
Manual calls for old style bleeding for front (push pedal, open/close bleeder) or by pressurizing the reservoir.
I only have the vacuum type bleeder so I'll wait til I get an assistant.
Hopefully my accumulator and relays are all good. Will know pretty soon.

Job was not an easy one.
Took a bit longer to install the unit than to remove it. And removing took a while! Back is a lil sore today.

Mistakes made -

Should have taken pics of the brake line arrangement.
When I removed the three brake lines, each used a different wrench size (7/16, 9/16, and 12mm).
I assumed they all had a unique diameter/pitch nipple.
Two of the three lines do have the same diameter and thread pitch.
Installed those in the wrong ports the first time.
Fortunately I caught this before moving on. It just didn't seem right.

Skipping the bench bleed.
Assumed with the accumulator off (I left it off to make the install easier), the pump chamber would fill when I put fluid in the reservoir. It didn't
Took a while but fluid finally got to the chamber.
Not sure what worked. Either gravity, running motor forwards & backward, or putting positive & negative pressure on the reservoir opening.

Using a motorcycle battery hot wired directly to the pump connector, I controlled running the pump by tapping or holding the jumper to the battery post.
Tap battery, get bubbles in the accumulator port, rinse repeat...
That was taking too long.
I finally got smart. Used one of fittings from a Master Cylinder bleed kit (Advance Auto) and ran a line from the accumulator port to the reservoir.
Ran the motor for 10 seconds or so quite a few times to clear all the minuscule bubbles.

Everything after that has gone as expected.
Writing this down to help anyone that might DIY this project later.

Interesting little piece I found in while cleaning the firewall area.
Assuming it's off the assembly line.

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