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Thread: New member - ABS issue, Teves MKII ABS pump

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,713
    1 other remark.. regarding the pump itself.. If the pump is gummed up, the motor may spin it but it will not prime and it will not build pressure.

    Pull it apart and clean thoroughly. Note the position of the cover plate. You can get that cover plate out by repeatedly knocking it on something solid, like a counter top. Throughly clean the race, seals, balls, and passages.

    When done, it should spin easily with your fingers. Refill with a 1/2 ounce or so of brake fluid to help with priming it. Spin by hand and let it sit up to allow air to bubble up and out.

    Then reassemble the motor to the pump, don't forget the "key" and the screen, oring, and the case seal.

    Reattach to the teves case.. DO NOT ATTACH the accumulator just yet. Prime the pump by running the motor and letting fluid flow through the rubber hose, from the reservoir, until you see fluid bubble up and push out the accumulator hole.. If fluid won't come out the hole.. the system won't pressurize.. Usually tapping on the pump with the motor running should get it working.
    Then install and tighten the accumulator.

    Then you're ready to reinstall the entire thing in the car and bleed the lines.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem OR
    Posts
    6,785
    Hmm...seal must have been leaking for a long time. Funny the motor waited until after you got home to lock up....maybe that was when the magnet broke up.

    Bag and tag the parts - someone might be able use them to resurrect another motor.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by TbirdSCFan View Post
    1 other remark.. regarding the pump itself.. If the pump is gummed up, the motor may spin it but it will not prime and it will not build pressure.

    Pull it apart and clean thoroughly. Note the position of the cover plate. You can get that cover plate out by repeatedly knocking it on something solid, like a counter top. Throughly clean the race, seals, balls, and passages.

    When done, it should spin easily with your fingers. Refill with a 1/2 ounce or so of brake fluid to help with priming it. Spin by hand and let it sit up to allow air to bubble up and out.

    Then reassemble the motor to the pump, don't forget the "key" and the screen, oring, and the case seal.

    Reattach to the teves case.. DO NOT ATTACH the accumulator just yet. Prime the pump by running the motor and letting fluid flow through the rubber hose, from the reservoir, until you see fluid bubble up and push out the accumulator hole.. If fluid won't come out the hole.. the system won't pressurize.. Usually tapping on the pump with the motor running should get it working.
    Then install and tighten the accumulator.

    Then you're ready to reinstall the entire thing in the car and bleed the lines.
    TbirdSC,

    Fluid was pretty clear and no debris in/on the filter.
    Will follow this procedure as soon as I can get another pump here.

    Thanks so much for that.

    Ken

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Hmm...seal must have been leaking for a long time. Funny the motor waited until after you got home to lock up....maybe that was when the magnet broke up.

    Bag and tag the parts - someone might be able use them to resurrect another motor.
    Anyone's guess on how long, when, where, etc.
    Does look to me like it's been a while but I have no idea.
    Will clean it all up for someone to use later.

    Ken

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    19
    Got the new pump in the mail yesterday.
    Hopefully, between the info gathered from this forum and my shop manual, I'll be able to get this correctly installed.

    Plan is to "bench bleed" the pump while the unit is off the car, install, bleed master cylinder, then bleed lines /calipers..

    Going in.. Wish me luck!


  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,713
    Quote Originally Posted by CR125Honda View Post
    Got the new pump in the mail yesterday.
    Hopefully, between the info gathered from this forum and my shop manual, I'll be able to get this correctly installed.

    Plan is to "bench bleed" the pump while the unit is off the car, install, bleed master cylinder, then bleed lines /calipers..

    Going in.. Wish me luck!

    Sounds like the way to do it. Good luck.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem OR
    Posts
    6,785
    Quote Originally Posted by CR125Honda View Post
    Going in.. Wish me luck!
    Score! G' luck.

    Ken

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    19
    Success.. so far.

    Turned on the key, heard the pump run for 20 seconds or so, then it shut off.
    Anti lock and Brake lights extinguished. Yes..

    Need to finish bleeding front and rear brake lines. Was getting late, needed a pedal pusher.
    Manual calls for old style bleeding for front (push pedal, open/close bleeder) or by pressurizing the reservoir.
    I only have the vacuum type bleeder so I'll wait til I get an assistant.
    Hopefully my accumulator and relays are all good. Will know pretty soon.

    Job was not an easy one.
    Took a bit longer to install the unit than to remove it. And removing took a while! Back is a lil sore today.

    Mistakes made -

    Should have taken pics of the brake line arrangement.
    When I removed the three brake lines, each used a different wrench size (7/16, 9/16, and 12mm).
    I assumed they all had a unique diameter/pitch nipple.
    Two of the three lines do have the same diameter and thread pitch.
    Installed those in the wrong ports the first time.
    Fortunately I caught this before moving on. It just didn't seem right.

    Skipping the bench bleed.
    Assumed with the accumulator off (I left it off to make the install easier), the pump chamber would fill when I put fluid in the reservoir. It didn't
    Took a while but fluid finally got to the chamber.
    Not sure what worked. Either gravity, running motor forwards & backward, or putting positive & negative pressure on the reservoir opening.

    Using a motorcycle battery hot wired directly to the pump connector, I controlled running the pump by tapping or holding the jumper to the battery post.
    Tap battery, get bubbles in the accumulator port, rinse repeat...
    That was taking too long.
    I finally got smart. Used one of fittings from a Master Cylinder bleed kit (Advance Auto) and ran a line from the accumulator port to the reservoir.
    Ran the motor for 10 seconds or so quite a few times to clear all the minuscule bubbles.

    Everything after that has gone as expected.
    Writing this down to help anyone that might DIY this project later.

    Interesting little piece I found in while cleaning the firewall area.
    Assuming it's off the assembly line.

    Last edited by CR125Honda; 10-31-2018 at 05:18 PM.

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