Steering jam

onkelmicke

Registered User
After changing out all tie rod and control arm parts up front I still have a problem with steering.

With the engine off the steering is frozen stuck. With wheels off the ground it works and is light moving.

With engine on and pump running the steering works but is stiff and the pump screaming. Wheels up is working normal.

What could cause the steering to lock itself up with the resistance of the tyres to the ground?
 
Did you have any of the pump lines opened? Seems odd, but it sounds like a blockage in the high pressure circuit...
 
No I didn't touch the lines.

It is still the same problem I had before the new rods and arms. I thought it might have helped.

My guess would have been some kind of valve but I have no idea what it could be or where. Haven't seen anyone having this problem before.
 
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Look at the variable pressure valve that stiffens the steering with speed. Mine got some grit in it years ago and I almost went straight off an exit ramp when the car wouldn't turn. Lucky for you the problem is in your driveway. It was serious pucker factor at speed. I believe that valve is in or close to the pump.
Alan
 
Yeah that sounds like it.

Mine went south on my way home and seized just before the parking lot. Very dangerous indeed.

I ordered a remanufactured pump but that didn't include the valve.

What can be done about it, I haven't found any replacement spare part?
 
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My guess would have been some kind of valve but I have no idea what it could be or where.

Ah, an existing vs. new problem then.

Yes, I agree to look at the 'EVO' and switch. If those are the issue, then check the control module in the trunk.

Bad news is the valve and switch are near the top of the power steering pump and not easy to get to without removing other parts.

Diagram:

attachment.php


Check for codes...perhaps 52 O,R Power Steering Pressure Switch circuit open

- See these two threads for troubleshooting:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...teering-ARC-problem&highlight=evo+switch+fuse

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...-steer-press-switch&highlight=evo+switch+fuse
 
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Hmm... interesting threads, thanks.

Will try and disconnect the EVO.

Don't have codes or such, but will have to look into it. Coincidentally my firm/soft ride doesn't work, figured it was the shocks. Seems it might be the ARC module then. Is a replacement available anyway?
 
Is a replacement available anyway?

I've seen used ones turn up here. If it comes to that, try a want ad, being sure to mention your location ;)

Might be worth checking the two fuses related to ride control...one under the dash and the other in the power control box near the battery.

Try to check for codes first chance you get.
 
Evo

I have the EVO out, but I'm not sure what to do with it. It has to be the main offender.

I haven't been able to get the pump out. The lower intercooler tube is in the way and I can't seem to remove it.
 
Outside of a visual check to see if the spring is ok and the valve doesn't stick, I'm not sure how to test off the car. If you had a known good one, you could throw it on. Might be interesting to check continuity thru the switch.

Photos?

Be careful putting it back together, especially if you don't have fresh o-rings and teflon seal.

Do you have a spare controller? Since ARC is not working, I'd be all over that, but not until I checked codes.

The lower IC tube has a stud w/nut that threads horizontally into the accessory bracket - hard to see if you don't know it's there. Helps to remove the intercooler and power steering pump pulley. Speak up if you need the entire process.
 
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Well, no I don't have any spare parts other than a remanufactured pump. I don't know anything about a teflon seal. I would like to get hold of any necassary parts but I'm not sure I can.

Intercooler and pulley is removed. I took the nut off of a horizontal pin holding the tube but that didn't do it. It still doesn't move.
 
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when my evo sensor went to crap on me and kept leaking, i just removed it for good and installed the power steering line directly to the pump. didnt really notice a big difference in steering without it.
were you able to remove and install the pulley and set it in so its lined up and not messing with the belt? i had a little trouble with that and it made my belt squeal and steering off.
id also check the belt tensioners, if you got the steering fluid full and everything is hooked up and lined up good, maybe the belt/tensioners are causing an issue
 
Haven't reinstalled the pulley, still trying to get the pump out. Going to try to screw that pin out next. (If I understand it correctly.)

20181119_004640_.jpg
 
Just noted the photo, thanks. Yes, remove the stud too, not just the nut. The tube needs more freedom to move before it will disengage from the mating flanges on each end, I think.

The o-rings and teflon seal(s) are discussed here: https://forums.tccoa.com/44-suspension/141002-evo-part-numbers.html

Can be sourced directly from a Ford dealer, but I recall seeing them on eBay. I did my pump while I was doing head gaskets in August. Had to buy a bag each of the rubber 0-rings and one each of the teflon (they are used on each end of the high pressure line and are not the same diameter). Only used one of each, so I won't need to buy the rubber o-rings for the next 9 times I do the same job... The rebuilt pump I bought came with the smaller (898) teflon ring for the high pressure line where it connects to the EVO. Damaged one during assembly, so used the spare. Tricky to install, easier when it's warmed up and supple. If that works for you, give it 15 ~ 20 minutes to cool and shrink down so it won't catch the edge when you attach the fitting.

You'll also need something to reseal the IC tube flanges. Aftermarket teflon gaskets work for me, but some like black RTV. Clean, clean, clean...snug, snug, snug.
 
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were you able to get the s/c tubing out? i might be wrong but isnt there 2 locations where the tubing connects to the engine besides the intercooler? Once I took the bolts out holding the tubing I just left them off being they are a pain to do
 
valve

About the valve... how to check it... should it let air through in one way? (Can't blow through it manually anyway.)

20181119_005119_.jpg

No the tube isn't done yet, will have another go at it tomorrow.
 
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The valve is actually a piston that shunts to a different position, altering fluid flow thru the housing that holds it, based on inputs. The result is what ford called 'speed-sensitive steering' - say if you are pulling into a parking spot (full assist) vs. trying to keep in your lane at highway speeds (minimum assist).

As noted above, I don't know a way to test off the car*. Just be sure the piston isn't frozen in the bore and the spring hasn't broken. You got it out, so it's not frozen. Check it for galling or scratches or signs of debris or gummed up fluid. The spring is directional so check it on the piston before replacing.

As for the teflon seals, search eBay for: Super Coupe InterCooler Gasket set of 4 - Thick Teflon

*Factory manual says to test for continuity across the pins at the connector on the EVO - did you do that yet? If greater than 20 ohms or less than 5, replace EVO valve. If resistance is 5~ 20 ohms, the next 7 steps involve checking the harness
 
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OK, I just figuered that the holes had some function and could have been clogged to cause problems.

20181119_005144.jpg

I don't yet know where the spring went, could still be in the hole in the pump.
 
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