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Thread: Steering jam

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Salem OR
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    I got the piston and spring out of my spare pump. It looks like there is another very small spring inside and that the pressure relief is internal. I can't blow thru the screen either so my guess is that the internal port is normally closed and only opens when pressure goes too high. The screen and internal valve are pressed into the piston, apparently and not meant to come apart/be serviced, other than inspected and cleaned if needed.

    I agree the rack is looking like the issue now and/or the high pressure line.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by onkelmicke View Post
    Still haven't managed to get the tube out... there must be another fastener that I can't see or reach.
    This is what the lower tube looks like out of the car (image courtesy TBSCshop):



    You should be able to see the entire tube clearly if you remove the accessory bracket completely, as long as the pin with the nut is removed that clamps the ear on the tube to that bracket. Note the only fasteners are two nuts on each end and the pin w/the nut for the ear at the accy. bracket. If those 5 are free, then the tube is stuck on the flanges on the ends.
    Last edited by KMT; 11-19-2018 at 08:44 PM.

  3. #33
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    Mar 2017
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    Apparently there are two types. One like that and another with an extra bracket that is screwed from below. I searched a lot of old threads and mine must be like that. I will look for it tomorrow.

    About the rack, are there any chances that any valves in there are replaceable in a practical manner?

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by onkelmicke View Post
    Apparently there are two types. One like that and another with an extra bracket that is screwed from below.
    Looking closer at your photos, I think I see a horizontal flange with a vertical bolt coming in from below...
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    What year is your SC, again?

    ...any valves in there are replaceable in a practical manner
    The shop manual says the guts inside the housing where the steering shaft connects is one big valve. Not sure how practical a solution that would mean.

    About heavy steering efforts:
    Low Fluid
    ...fill as needed

    Valve seal cut or twisted
    ...Replace seal

    Damaged/worn Teflon piston seal
    ...Replace seal

    Loose/missing rubber backup piston o-ring
    ...Replace/install o-ring

    Loose rack piston
    ...Replace rack assembly

    Gear assembly oil passages restricted
    ...Clear/service as required

    Bent/damaged rack assembly
    ...Replace rack assembly

    Pump external leakage
    ... Service per diagnosis

    Improper drive belt tension
    ...Readjust belt tension

    Hose or cooler external leakage
    ...Replace as necessary

    Improper engine idle speed
    ...Readjust idle

    Pulley loose or warped
    ...Replace pulley

    Pump flow pressure not to specification
    ...Refer to pressure diagnosis

    Hose/cooler line restrictions
    ...Clear or replace as required
    Last edited by KMT; 11-20-2018 at 01:17 AM.

  5. #35
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    Mar 2017
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    Sweden
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    It's 1990

    OK. Can't imagine much of the above being the cause really, exept possibly "Gear assembly oil passages restricted" (wherever that is) ...Clear/service as required
    And "Hose/cooler line restrictions" ...Clear or replace as required
    Looks like I should check lines/hoses to begin with, or how to remove them.

    Thanks
    Last edited by onkelmicke; 11-19-2018 at 11:39 PM.

  6. #36
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    Salem OR
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    Digging further, I found another section on heavy steering efforts defined as "poor assist or loss of assist" - I don't think this would mean a complete lock up, tho

    System contamination
    ...Inspect system for foreign objects, kinked hose; flush system

    Plugged valve screen
    ...Prior to rebuilding a CII pump*, examine the valve screen for contamination; replace all valves which have plugged or contaminated valve screens
    (I think this means the relief valve and it's screen)


    EVO actuator sticking
    ...Replace actuator

    I don't see anything about outright lock up in any example. It's not locked up unless the pump is running, so pressure/flow seems to be the issue. If it was a mechanical failure of the rack, it would't matter if there was pressure/flow or not.

    When the shop manual discusses pressure testing, and if high pressures are recorded, it says to either check hoses for restrictions, or the flow valve in the pump...clean or replace. The new pump takes used parts out of the picture, leaving the hoses.

    The return hose is trivial and costs whatever a store wants for 65 ~ 70 cm of the correct type hose. The factory clamps may need to be sacrificed and replaced with standard screw clamps. The high pressure hose is both rubber and and metal, costing around $50 USD, and a pain to replace/get in out. It also requires new teflon square seals on both ends, but they should come pre-installed. If you find that either hose has come apart inside, that means the entire system needs to be flushed, especially when installing a new pump.

    *means Ford type, belt-driven, slipper-type pump with fiberglass-reinforced nylon reservoir, typically found on older models

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    It's not locked up unless the pump is running, so pressure/flow seems to be the issue. If it was a mechanical failure of the rack, it would't matter if there was pressure/flow or not.

    The return hose is trivial and costs whatever a store wants for 65 ~ 70 cm of the correct type hose.
    Well it is seized with engine/pump off. Resistance when turning is what makes it seize (i.e. with wheels to the ground).


    On mine the last part of the return line is a simple hose (connecting to the pump) but the parts connecting to the cooler and to the rack are hoses with permanent connections pressed on the line, as in the photos. Haven't found those as spare parts yet.

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    Last edited by onkelmicke; 11-21-2018 at 03:29 PM.

  8. #38
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    Mar 2017
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    Pump is out. IC tube is not. With the pump removed I think I can see the extra bracket connected to the engine block.

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  9. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
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    I was going to lunch one-day in my Hyundai (not trying to rhyme swear) and my steering rack tie rod broke. It busted inside the steering rack itself. Just thinking about another scenario. Cause if your fluid is full pump isn't screaming and belts/pulleys/tensioners are fine.
    What about that steering assembly/linkage going into the engine bay? Maybe that's a cause

    03hyundai elantra-everyday car. 275k gave out. Spare motor has 345k on it and strong. Getting body work and new paint job
    89sc auto- locating spare motor
    90sc auto

  10. #40
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    Mar 2017
    Location
    Sweden
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    Inner and outer tie rods are new. Rack 'looks' fine. I don't know about the steering column/coupling, could the coupling go bad?
    I'm currently suspecting PS line hoses could be frayed inside. Need to get them out.
    Last edited by onkelmicke; 11-21-2018 at 02:30 PM.

  11. #41
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    Mar 2017
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    Sweden
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    Lower IC tube and bracket

    Tube is out! Wish it didn't have to go back in again. The fastener on the tube and the bracket next to the engine mount can be seen in the photos.

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  12. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
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    Thought I remembered someone on here having a steering issue and their column or coupling seized or something happened to it. I know mine was very rusty before I cleaned it up

    03hyundai elantra-everyday car. 275k gave out. Spare motor has 345k on it and strong. Getting body work and new paint job
    89sc auto- locating spare motor
    90sc auto

  13. #43
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    Sweden
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    OK, interesting. My coupling feels more like mushy or spongy so maybe it should be renewed.

    Anyone know about the banjo ring of the pressure line-to-EVO connection, it should come off right? Is it available as a spare part?

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  14. #44
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    Dec 2007
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    Salem OR
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    I doubt the banjo fitting is readily available...might need to source a used one, maybe need to pick up another EVO that comes with it.

    Don't remove the hose fitting unless you have a new square teflon seal, or you get a new high pressure line that comes with it.

    Unscrew the fitting to remove if off the EVO banjo...might be very snug (guessing you know that already). It just spins on the end of the high pressure line. The right sized wrenches will help remove it and lessen chances of damage to either part.

    This is what the EVO looks like with the high pressure line removed.
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    New high pressure line looks like this:


    The looped end, upper right, connects to the EVO. If you expect to replace the high pressure line, you could cut the hose and then work on separating the two fittings one they are off the car. Be sure you know what work is involved in replacing that line before you sacrifice it, tho.

    As for the lower IC tube, you might get by without that last bolt when you put it back together.
    Last edited by KMT; 11-21-2018 at 09:25 PM.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Be sure you know what work is involved in replacing that line.
    I don't seem to have a choice. It's the most probable cause of blockage. I will need to replace all 3 lines to be sure. But I still have no Idea how to get at them without removing the engine...

    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    As for the lower IC tube, you might get by without that last bolt when you put it back together.
    Yeah that can't be needed, but I would need to remove the bracket too, so not to have them rattling against each other.




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    Anyone know what this fitting is and where it goes? Seems to have a cap on so it's not connected...
    Last edited by onkelmicke; 11-21-2018 at 10:24 PM.

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