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Thread: I Broke My Jacking Points Today

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    19

    I Broke My Jacking Points Today

    First time with the Tbird that I was able to lift it in my own garage. My goal was this: clamp down the heat shield on the muffler to stop the god-awful rattling at low rpms and figure out where I'm loosing coolant from by inspecting the underside of the engine. I was not ready to be greeted by a hole in the undercarriage and to bust 3 of the 4 jacking spots clean apart/flat. The front left was already destroyed before I got to it, my admittedly cheap quality jack dropped the poor car on the back right jack stand smashing it up, and I was able to ease the front right down on the jack stand, but it creaked then split right apart in my ear. The back left was chipper, though, so there's my silver lining. The metal under here represents that of slightly better quality cardboard. Yeesh.

    I might need to find a body shop to cut and weld in some new metal because this is really weak. I also need a not-garbage jack.

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem OR
    Posts
    6,804
    After growing tired of the OE jacking points and always holding my breath they would bear up, it dawned on me they are, at best, suited only for the OE jack in the trunk and then only for emergency tire changes.

    Because my Anny is lowered, I bought a low profile hyd. jack and only lift on suspension related hard points these days, pref. with a small block of wood. I'm sure a 4-point lift would make things easier, but...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Florida
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    19
    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    After growing tired of the OE jacking points and always holding my breath they would bear up, it dawned on me they are, at best, suited only for the OE jack in the trunk and then only for emergency tire changes.

    Because my Anny is lowered, I bought a low profile hyd. jack and only lift on suspension related hard points these days, pref. with a small block of wood. I'm sure a 4-point lift would make things easier, but...
    Yeah, I'm learning this myself the hard way tonight. It's the only way I've jacked up the Escort, my brother's Focus, and my roommate's Yaris, but it's a big difference from compact hatchbacks to a full-blown coupe. The only time my one buddy and I tried jacking up a car not along the rails we pushed in the floorboards thinking we were on the frame. We weren't. Stuck to the OE jacking points since since to avoid making the same mistake, but after this I'm gonna have to learn to find more suitable jacking points.

    Speaking of the OE jack, mine looks like it was made out of tree bark because when I got it out of the trunk it was rusted clean over. Not a single part of it isn't ruined. I need a new one.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Milwaukee, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,350

    got to ask

    was your car a flood car? or did it come from the rust belt?? I live in the rust belt and I have good jacks that are in these cars.. If you want one let me know and I will send you one....I ALWAYS jack from the "hard" spots on these cars. I never go to the body, always to something on the suspention or the engine cross member....Rich
    Too many cars,too little time to drive them. Anything less than 500 cubes is a small block. If you slow down in life you will get run over..

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
    Posts
    5,182
    They make something like this in aluminum, but I'm cheap and made one out of 2x4.Name:  20181119_095253.jpg
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    ~Chris
    SCCoA Member #1826
    Bettie Riding jack stands
    SCARlit on drag duty now

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,714
    Never in the almost 30 years that I've owned a SC have I even thought of using that flimsy rail to lift the car , or god forbid the floorboard.. there's a big stiff steel frame rail right there that is used to lift 1/2 the car, or about 2000 pounds of super coupe.

    When you use the safety jacks they need to be under the biggest, flattest, hardest piece of frame you can find. I use the K member.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Florida
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    19
    Quote Originally Posted by pro street rich View Post
    was your car a flood car? or did it come from the rust belt?? I live in the rust belt and I have good jacks that are in these cars.. If you want one let me know and I will send you one....I ALWAYS jack from the "hard" spots on these cars. I never go to the body, always to something on the suspention or the engine cross member....Rich
    Rust belt car. Dad hardly drove it in the winter unless his truck was out of commission, BUT it spent 8 hard years sitting in a stone/grass driveway because the clutch went out and he didn't want to "cut the exhaust apart" to fix it. He was odd like that.

    Quote Originally Posted by TbirdSCFan View Post
    Never in the almost 30 years that I've owned a SC have I even thought of using that flimsy rail to lift the car , or god forbid the floorboard.. there's a big stiff steel frame rail right there that is used to lift 1/2 the car, or about 2000 pounds of super coupe.

    When you use the safety jacks they need to be under the biggest, flattest, hardest piece of frame you can find. I use the K member.
    I come from a life of dealing with compacts and subcompacts and on the Focus, Yaris, and Escort I've worked on everyone and everything I've read points to using the pinch-weld rails. It came as a surprise when the Tbird broke underneath what I had been doing for years. Irony is people suggest using the rails over the box frame for my other car, the Escort, because the box frame rots away before the rail in most cases, so I applied what I learned there to this and... nope. I guess it's a car-by-car thing.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Florida
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    19
    Quote Originally Posted by BLOWN38 View Post
    They make something like this in aluminum, but I'm cheap and made one out of 2x4.Name:  20181119_095253.jpg
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    So... I want to make 4 of these now.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem OR
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    6,804
    Quote Originally Posted by FurryWrecker911 View Post
    ...want to make 4 of these
    Better make more than just 4 while the saw is plugged in....you'll need spares

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Milwaukee, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,350

    don't need those

    if you jack on the frame you will never have an issue. now before someone says "these are unibody" I do know that. There are places on the front "K" member to lift and in the rear you can use the rear end housing.. I have been lifting these cars since 1990 when I first got one and I have always used those spots to lift....just saying.....Rich
    Too many cars,too little time to drive them. Anything less than 500 cubes is a small block. If you slow down in life you will get run over..

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Imperial, MO (near St. Louis)
    Posts
    4,345
    Red circles = good spot to place a floor jack

    Yellow circles = good spot to place a jackstand


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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    292
    Great photos. Thanks.
    Creighton

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Imperial, MO (near St. Louis)
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    4,345
    No problem.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    New Orleans, LA
    Posts
    1,959
    In my entire lift I have only ever jacked up a vehicle on hard parts. Under the control arm attachments, k member and rear k mounting points

    I've never had an issue and would never recommend any other places.

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