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Thread: SC Blower (er, supercharger) Ducting Seal Procedure

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TbirdSCFan View Post
    Agree. I use black RTV; however the copper is generally better to work with. Too many people, like with other SC topics, Oh.. lets say burping the coolant, adjusting the TV cable, head gaskets.. so on and so forth, overwork the issue. This is not complicated. put a thin layer on the flanges, let it sit for a bit, bolt it together evenly.. don't overtighten anything! Done!
    Correct, high temp Permatex RTV is easiest sealer to use on SC motor and IC tubes.

    David
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  2. #17
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    I think the general attitude here is that RTV works just fine.

    In that case, I will definitely not be making an additional batch of the Teflon IC gaskets.


    - Dan

  3. #18
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    Sealing

    I’ll chime in....
    My experience - NO sealer - clean surfaces
    Leave the blower top bolts in but loose.
    Work up the clamp bolts evenly and do not over tighten.
    Let the tube joints, and intercooler joints find a nice fit and work the tightness up 1/2 turn at a time.

    I have done this several times and maybe been lucky but never had a vac leak .

    I think it is more about the tubes seating nicely than over tightening.

    Tighten up the blower top screws last, this allows the tube/ball joints to seat where they want to.
    Last edited by Peterdroy66; 02-02-2019 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Forgot a detail.
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  4. #19
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    I will be doing these teflon gaskets this weekend as the 35th I purchased a couple months ago came with a leak at the spanner nut on the upper tube. How do these gaskets attach?

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHOFFA View Post
    I will be doing these teflon gaskets this weekend as the 35th I purchased a couple months ago came with a leak at the spanner nut on the upper tube. How do these gaskets attach?
    3 of the gaskets just slide onto the intercooler and intake plenum studs. For the 4th "O" ring looking gasket you'll need to separate the supercharger top from the tube, spanner wrench is the preferred but it can be done with a hammer and large screw driver but you might damage the nut, aesthetics I'm talking about.
    Last edited by nickleman60; 03-27-2019 at 07:25 AM.
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickleman60 View Post
    .. For the 4th "O" ring looking gasket.
    Thank you. The 4th one is the spot I have the leak. I bought the entire kit so likely replacing the square one on top too as I figure it will be most efficient to remove that with the tube, rather than just the top tube.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ddubb View Post
    I think the general attitude here is that RTV works just fine.

    In that case, I will definitely not be making an additional batch of the Teflon IC gaskets.


    - Dan
    The teflon gaskets are perfect for me - heading to eBay to buy another set for the future. Thanks for making them available as long as you did.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHOFFA View Post
    Thank you. The 4th one is the spot I have the leak. I bought the entire kit so likely replacing the square one on top too as I figure it will be most efficient to remove that with the tube, rather than just the top tube.
    If you pull off the "top hat" and replace the square gasket, you've introduced a new variable. I wouldn't do it for no reason.

    If you loosen the three blower bolts to the intake, and the two nuts on the upper IC plenum at the IC (and unfortunately maybe the little nut underneath the upper IC plenum, which you can take off and keep for a souvenir), that should give you the "slop" to tighten the large collar ring on the blower to upper IC plenum. If you use a gasket and maybe some anaerobic gasket maker, it should seal just fine. I don't trust metal to metal there, but that's how the factor did it.

    Then tighten the two nuts on the IC, and finally the three bolts on the blower.
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  9. #24
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    Ok, I didnt want to remove the top hat either originally but others said it is easier. My plan is to remove the 2 yellow circled areas and replace those two gaskets only. But sounds like you're saying there probably isnt even a gasket in the spanner nut?(left circle)

    I ordered the attached set. Is the circle one not the one that goes in the spanner?

    Thanks again for all the help. Hoping to have this reliable enough by end of summer to drive the the midwest bash here in WI
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  10. #25
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    Yes, the circle teflon gasket goes on the tapered flange inside the round collar nut on the top outlet (left yellow circle)...the collar nut is best removed/installed using the proper spanner tool. The torque on it is pretty high*, so you don't want to remove/install it unless you have to.

    What works for me is that once you have it all together on the car, and sealed up with no leaks, if you need to take things apart again, it is easier to remove the top with the outlet tube still connected at the collar nut as one assembly.

    And as many have noted, one of the benefits of using the teflon is that they are re-usable, and the less you have to disassemble each time, the better chance you have of avoiding leaks during re-assembly.

    Quoting from a previous thread:
    • Supercharger retaining bolts (8mm)- 20-30 nm 15-20 lb-ft
    • Supercharger retaining bolts (12mm)- 70-95 nm 52-70 lb-ft
    • Supercharger outlet adapter bolts/studs- 20-30 nm 15-22 lb-ft
    • Throttle body assembly retaining nuts- 20-30 nm 15-22 lb-ft
    • Intake elbow bolts- 8-13 nm 6-9 lb-ft
    • Intercooler tube retaining nuts- 20-30 nm 15-22 lb-ft
    • Intercooler outlet tube to bracket bolt- 40-55 nm 30-40 lb-ft
    • Supercharger adapter collar nut- 200 nm 148 lb-ft
    • Intercooler outlet tube bracket (to block) studfully seat, then 2-10 nm 17-88 lb-in
    • Intercooler outlet tube bracket (to block) bolt- 70-95 nm 52-70 lb-ft
    • Intercooler outlet tube bracket (to block) nut- 20-30 nm 15-22 lb-ft
    • Intercooler retaining (to radiator airboot) screw and washer assembly- 4-6 nm 3-5 lb-ft
    Last edited by KMT; 03-27-2019 at 02:43 PM. Reason: added torque specs

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHOFFA View Post
    Ok, I didnt want to remove the top hat either originally but others said it is easier. My plan is to remove the 2 yellow circled areas and replace those two gaskets only. But sounds like you're saying there probably isnt even a gasket in the spanner nut?(left circle)

    I ordered the attached set. Is the circle one not the one that goes in the spanner?

    Thanks again for all the help. Hoping to have this reliable enough by end of summer to drive the the midwest bash here in WI
    Spanner wrench, you might be able to find a cheaper one but Bill does sell one.

    https://www.supercoupeperformance.co...-nut-wrench-94
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  12. #27
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    Gaskets arrive tomorrow. I agree, the less I have to take apart the better. Just went to remove the tub and see why it was leaking!!!! I can move that collar nut by hand!!! Hoping it's not stripped. Going to take it apart anyways and put new gaskets in.

    Thanks again for the insight.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickleman60 View Post
    Spanner wrench, you might be able to find a cheaper one but Bill does sell one.

    https://www.supercoupeperformance.co...-nut-wrench-94
    Beats the heck out of beating on it

    Use it with a cloth to reduce marring on the nut, or perhaps try to find one of these hen's teeth:

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Yes, the circle teflon gasket goes on the tapered flange inside the round collar nut on the top outlet (left yellow circle)...[/LIST]
    Tightened it to 140lb, runs smooth and vacuum sits between 17-20, but tac needles yodesnt work now. Could I have done something causing this while playing with vacuum lines?
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  15. #30
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    Ok, read all the posts. Sounds like bad cam sensor as it also takes 3 times to try and start it before it starts. I will report back. Just was worried I didnt connect something under the hood.

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