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Thread: SC Videos

  1. #1
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    SC Videos

    Pushed five SC-centric videos to youTube.

    One is a short video w/thermal imaging, one is a vanity/montage, one is a windshield replacement time-lapse, last is dyno run, all involve my '90 Anny.

    Nothing special, no tutorials/how-to's (yet), just time wasters, mainly

    Added another video to youtube - this one demonstrates fan testing using a code reader: https://youtu.be/czr4g0dnYvE

    This is an oft suggested process than can confuse some owners as the lo-hi fan speed circuits are powered up back-to-back. This video should help illustrate that testing process. Note there is one fan in this example (early SC), with two speeds depending on which circuit is being fed, where lo is always running when the fan is on, and we’re told helps get the fan spun before adding hi.
    Last edited by KMT; 03-26-2019 at 06:26 PM. Reason: Added 5th video link

  2. #2
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    Holy smokes, that was one of the longest dyno pulls I've ever seen. BTW, Nice Car !

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat.............10.597 @ 135.78

    My Garage

  3. #3
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    Thanks.

    I think on that run he soft pedaled it up to around 55 to get the AOD in OD, then took it up from there to what looked like 107mph. Total 3 runs as I recall.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Thanks.

    I think on that run he soft pedaled it up to around 55 to get the AOD in OD, then took it up from there to what looked like 107mph. Total 3 runs as I recall.
    Hopefully not. You don't want to do a dyno pull in OD. As you know, the OD band isn't the most robust part of the transmission.
    Kurt K (e-mail)
    SCCoA Member #: 443
    '92 SC AOD -- 11.521s @ 116.748mph, 2.0 AR power
    . . . . . . . . . -- 13.547s @ 101.01 mph, only w/ bolt-ons
    '95 SC 5spd -- All Stock, except 17" Simmons wheels.
    '90 SC 35th Anny 5spd -- 3rd owner, 16k miles
    2 '89 XR7 5spd's -- on their way out, really!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurt K View Post
    Hopefully not. You don't want to do a dyno pull in OD. As you know, the OD band isn't the most robust part of the transmission.
    For sure - might have been 3rd/direct. Besides putting it on the dyno, I had it in with a vibration complaint above 80 and I think there may have been a run up to check drivetrain - I thought maybe it was output bushing on the trans, or wheel bearing(s), turned out to be rear tires. Funny how an SC can go thru them so fast...

    Other than a car being dog slow, what do you think would be behind such a long pull? Warm up run, maybe?

    That was the only video I did that day...8yrs since and I'm lucky I can remember where I filed the printout. With around 100k on the odo, I was worried about more than just the trans. Travis, running the dyno, is the engine guy at that shop and owns an SC.

    Done a few mods & repairs since but not motivated to get back on the dyno. Just happy it showed stock numbers being so far from new. Butt dyno swears it's improved tho
    Last edited by KMT; 02-15-2019 at 01:40 AM.

  6. #6
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    Good vids, Ken!
    Current: 1993 SC 5.0L Auto Red, 1994 SC 5-speed Teal, 1995 SC 5-speed Chameleon Blue
    Old: 89 SC auto Twilight Blue, 89 SC stick Titanium, 90 35th stick, 92 Sport 5.0L stick, 94 SC stick Black, 1994 SC Auto Teal
    Also: 1992 Feature Mustang Convertible 5-speed Vibrant Red, 1991 BMW 850i 6-speed Red, 1994 BMW 850CSi 6-speed Red

    www.mamn12.com for your mid-atlantic mn12 needs!

  7. #7
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    Added 5th SC video ...see above.

    I'm working on adding LEDs in the dash to let me know when the fan runs. This demo was to test some LEDs I have on hand, while confirming wiring, etc. Now I have to decide where I want them located. These green LEDs are super bright. I use one as an on indicator for the IC fan near the air temp gauge in a pillar pod, but I had to 80% black it out so it wouldn't blind me. I think I'll put these two down low, maybe in the kick panel.
    Last edited by KMT; 03-26-2019 at 06:25 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Added 5th SC video ...see above.

    I'm working on adding LEDs in the dash to let me know when the fan runs. This demo was to test some LEDs I have on hand, while confirming wiring, etc. Now I have to decide where I want them located. These green LEDs are super bright. I use one as an on indicator for the IC fan near the air temp gauge in a pillar pod, but I had to 80% black it out so it wouldn't blind me. I think I'll put these two down low, maybe in the kick panel.
    You can try a series resistor ... starting with, say , 510 ohm and working up a step at a time.

    That might help some.

    RwP

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    You can try a series resistor
    Good idea - I'll use it if the location I prefer ends up pointing right at my eyes, thanks.

    What I'd really like is what I've seen on exotics where the gauge lighting changes color based on input...maybe I can add an LED that simply floods the stock temp gauge green when the fan is on - something subtle but easy to note day or nite. I'll use a spare cluster to test.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Good idea - I'll use it if the location I prefer ends up pointing right at my eyes, thanks.

    What I'd really like is what I've seen on exotics where the gauge lighting changes color based on input...maybe I can add an LED that simply floods the stock temp gauge green when the fan is on - something subtle but easy to note day or nite. I'll use a spare cluster to test.
    That's an idea. Green when fan is on, and red if it's overheating.

    If you're doing that much, might want to try a bare LED or two and resistors ... maybe one from someplace like AllElectronics (https://www.allelectronics.com/categ...3mm-t-1/1.html for the 3mm variants) and a properly sized resistor (hint: Figure on 15V so it won't pop at max charge; if the math comes up with a non-standard value, pick the next LARGER standard value).

    Hrm .. I have a cluster (missing center gauges and the 140MPH speedo is optional) from a 94-95 SC if you want one extra to play with. Let me know.

    (Shucks, I'd consider a white needle, and a green or red high intensity 5mm LED to light the needle ... or a two-color LED! ( https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...lar-led/1.html bi-color, https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...val-led/1.html for a nice bright green one. Each would use about a 680 ohm - math says 600, 680 just drops the brightness a bit and adds a bit to the voltage tolerance.)

    Multiple other sources; I actually usually buy from MPJA.COM , but AllElectronics has some nice units also.

    RwP

  11. #11
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    Before I ran the test in the video, I was all about a single bi-color LED, say green-lo/red-hi, but the circuit out of the IRCM isn't discrete, meaning both share at least some voltage/current when on, as the video shows. On lo, the green segment would be bright and the red would be dim. On hi, both would be bright (might be ok...might be muddy - need to get one to confirm*)...there's no easy way to turn one or the other color off completely, which would be the effect I'd want if using two colors. I could use two separate LEDs, but I think they'd need to be spaced apart for the right effect, at least that's how I imagine it now.

    I could add a black box** that would isolate the lo/hi triggers, or see if the signals out of the EEC at the IRCM are separate enough, but for now I want to keep it simple, and part of the goal in all of this it that I want to know if the IRCM is doing it's thing, not just that the EEC is sending signals.

    If my spare clusters don't pan out, I'll consider your offer, thanks

    * Do you happen to have just one like these handy? I don't need ten of them...

    ** If I take the blackbox route, I might as well stick with one single color LED that pulses when the hi speed circuit sees same as lo/max current.
    Last edited by KMT; 03-27-2019 at 01:53 PM.

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