About removing the bleed bolt now...at this point, I'd leave it, and the cap, alone and instead concentrate on the level in the expansion tank.
Minor air after filling is passed out via the expansion tank. That where you top off/adjust coolant later. If you keep opening the system, you'll just end up chasing the level.
When the cooling system is kept closed, coolant temp dictates the level in the system, and the expansion tank, via expansion/contraction, setting up a pressure/vacuum cycle, and every time you crack that bolt, or check the level in the radiator by pulling the cap, that dynamic is disturbed and has to be re-established by at least one more drive cycle/cooldown.
By the way, the factory manual says to set coolant level in the expansion tank when the engine is hot/fully warmed, up to the --HOT-- line. When it cools down, say by the next morning, note the level in the expansion tank just for reference. In my experience, when the cooling system is working properly and completely cooled down, the lower level will vary based on ambient air temp, but won't fall all the way to --COLD--. Don't adjust that level unless it falls below --COLD--.
Be sure the tube from the filler neck to the expansion tank is clear. Don't pull it off the filler neck just for fun, either, you'll disturb the pressure/vacuum that exists between the coolant in the tank and the cap and require another run/cooldown cycle to re-establish. If that tube is blocked, the upper hose will get rock hard when the engine heats up and collapse on itself when the engine cools down. Keep an eye on the level in the tank, and on the upper hose, every time you open the hood. Pretend the cap has a 'do not open' sign on it unless there is drama under the hood that demands you do so
Again, set the level in the expansion tank when hot, at --HOT--, only. Don't open the closed up cooling system just to top off. Once repairs are done and you're confident it's working properly, leave it all alone and just watch the expansion tank.