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Thread: Jeff's 3.8 and 4.2 Projects.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Tinton Falls, NJ
    Posts
    1,585
    I vote C. It may be more work now, but it would also be more marketable, and if something were to happen to a head, it wouldn’t be such a big deal to get another one.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
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    65
    Well I ended up going with "A" and picked up another split-port head for the project.

    Since then I have been very busy making various engine building tools and fixtures so that I can do as much of the machining myself as possible. I resurfaced 2 sets of heads, the split-ports and a set of stock (for now) SC heads. Both sets were within a couple of thousands of an inch and probably would have been fine as is but I wanted a fresh sealing surface so I cut just a few thou off of them.

    The deck on the block was bang on from the factory from left bank to right bank but was out 0.005" from the crank centerline so I cut 0.006" off the decks to make them correct. The block, fixture and cutter just barely fit in the milling machine.

    Two of the biggest tool projects were making a block indexing fixture and a cylinder head fixture. As a bonus I am now very well equipped for working on 3.8 and 4.2 Ford V6 parts. I wish I had the gear for boring/honing and line-honing the block. The nearest place to me that can do it is about 4 hours away from me.

    Here is a couple of photos of the completed fixture.



    I didn't have a cutter large enough for the block and heads so I had to make one of them too. I used a carbide insert for the heads and a CBN Wiper insert for decking the block.



    Machining the indexing plate.



    Milling the heads.







    Decking the block.





  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    65
    I finished making the replacement fuel injector bungs today on the mill. The mill cut the hex and did the bores. Turning them to size and cutting the threads was done in a previous operation on a manual lathe. I am hoping to get the replacement head on the mill to modify them for the injector bungs in the coming days if time allows.


  4. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    65
    I found the time to machine the head for the injector bungs today. I will thread them in and epoxy them this evening.




  5. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    65
    There was a bit of scoring on the oil pump mounting face on the timing cover so I cleaned up up by taking a small cut on the milling machine.

    The reason for the odd looking before finish is that I had covered the opening with duct tape before I sandblasted it. I then used ear plugs to plug up the hole while machining it.


  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    65
    I started calling some automotive machine shops to see what it's going to cost to get the block done. The nearest shop is at least a 4 hour drive from me. Ugh, Cape Breton is rich in scenery buy poor in auto machine shops....
    For any other SC enthusiasts on the east coast of Canada here is what the average prices are for getting a block done. All of the shops are pretty much within $50-$75 overall cost so it really comes down to who you like, location, reputation etc.
    All prices are CAD. I am probably going to send it up to either A+J Automotive (aka Armstrong Engines) or Arsenault Cylinder Heads in Moncton when the time comes as both of these places are well known for good work.

    Bore and hone: $260-$350

    Clean and Magnaflux: $75-$100

    Line Honing of the Mains: $150-250

    Decking the block: Around $160 or so. One shop mentioned the cost and I didn't ask the others as I can deck my own block.

    Also, none of the shops have a torque plate for a Ford 3.8/4.2 so I am glad I went ahead and made my own.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    65
    I decided to add bushings to the main caps to help prevent any cap walk. I seen SCU do it on their facebook page (lots of good info and ideas there) and though it was a good idea as the mill was free and I had the time. I am using the CNC mill to bore hole to allow for around a 0.075" wall thickness steel bushings around the studs. Align boring and or honing afterwards is mandatory for something like this.

    Today I am machining the caps for the bushings. Tomorrow I will hopefully get the block done and make the bushings to fit them later this week or next week.



    Big thanks to David at SCU for answering my questions on this subject and other things lately.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    English, IN
    Posts
    4,455
    Awesome projects!

    I always wondered what split port heads + M90 would do....sounds like that might be off the table now though.
    Matt Haub
    Shootouts: '09 SS 1st | '10 Mod1 2nd | '11 Bracket 3rd | '12 Bracket 1st | 2013 | '14 Bracket 3rd | 2015 | '16 Bracket 1st & Mod2 2nd | '17 Spectator | '18 Freeze-Plug Champ
    Black '89 5spd - 281K miles, MPx, Alky-Inj ¦ 387rwhp, 438rwtq (new motor) ¦ Best 1/4mi:12.521, MPH:107.23mph (old motor)
    35th Anniversary Auto 46k miles | Red '93 Auto 186k miles
    My Garage

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
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    65
    Quote Originally Posted by DrFishbone View Post
    Awesome projects!

    I always wondered what split port heads + M90 would do....sounds like that might be off the table now though.
    It might still happen yet but it is on the back burner somewhat at the moment. I too am very curious and it is not too far from completion so it will probably happen eventually. Hood clearance will be a problem with the current design for it making a cowl hood (or a 4.2 truck) probably mandatory for it. I might revisit the intake height and do some of it over. If nothing else when the time comes eventually it will at least make it on to a test stand to see how it does and what it would take to finish it. I could re-engineer it into a kit someday with a few changes, not really any time for that at the moment though.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    65
    Made up an engine rotation adapter as I did not have one. I made it to fit the 3.8/4.2 V6 with some extra room more slots or more holes if I ever need it to fit another engine. It can be used with a 1" socket or wrench.






  11. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    65
    Here is a few pictures of some of the engine building tools that I have been making for this project.
    A connecting rod balancing scale, stroke/height measurement tool, ring squarer, connecting rod vice, rod bolt stretch gauge, magnetic deck bridge and a tdc stop.






  12. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    65
    Machined the block main counter bores today. I used the same endmill and program that I used on the main caps. The tool is a 1/2" endmill with a small radius ground on the bottom edge making it somewhat into a bullnose endmill. I didn't want a sharp edge in the bottom of the counterbore. Since I had the block set up and dialed in on the mill I decided to use a flycutter with a cemented carbide tool to clean up the oil pan rails, they just needed a few thousands taken off of them. After all this was done I re-tapped all of the holes in the block and then used a countersink to break the edges off all the holes. Just need to make the alignment bushings and then make them fit properly.






  13. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    65
    Made the steel bushings for the main caps today. I used either 1030 or 1045 mild steel, not sure of what it was on the shelf. They have 0.080" wall thickness, are 0.400" tall and have a bit of clearance for the studs on the inner diameter.


  14. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    St. Charles, MO
    Posts
    21,062
    Quote Originally Posted by jb351 View Post
    Made the steel bushings for the main caps today. I used either 1030 or 1045 mild steel, not sure of what it was on the shelf. They have 0.080" wall thickness, are 0.400" tall and have a bit of clearance for the studs on the inner diameter.


    Are the main bearing caps also counter bored to accept these alignment bushings ?

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat.............10.597 @ 135.78

    My Garage

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
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    65
    Quote Originally Posted by David Neibert View Post
    Are the main bearing caps also counter bored to accept these alignment bushings ?

    David
    Yes. I counterbored the main caps as well.

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