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Thread: Jeff's 3.8 and 4.2 Projects.

  1. #76
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    Mar 2003
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    Well that will definitely be a unique build. The splitport centrifugal and turbo cars have made good power in the past and the M112 mock ups lacked an intercooler which greatly reduced their capabilities.

    Why a Freestar intake? Why not a Mustang split port? The Mustang single port heads don't have the same thickness in the jackets as the SC so they can't be ported as much. I too started to work on a set of split ports for my brother's 2000 Mustang that is getting a 4.3 kit and am hesitant to cut too deep. I would love to see the pictures of the cutaway head if you decide to do it.

  2. #77
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    Oct 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flex View Post
    Well that will definitely be a unique build. The splitport centrifugal and turbo cars have made good power in the past and the M112 mock ups lacked an intercooler which greatly reduced their capabilities.

    Why a Freestar intake? Why not a Mustang split port? The Mustang single port heads don't have the same thickness in the jackets as the SC so they can't be ported as much. I too started to work on a set of split ports for my brother's 2000 Mustang that is getting a 4.3 kit and am hesitant to cut too deep. I would love to see the pictures of the cutaway head if you decide to do it.
    The Freestar lower is basically a huge open path to the cylinder head and has no EGR stuff to plug like some of the other intakes. Just remove the IMRC shaft and butterflies and then plug the IMRC holes and it's ready to go.



    I milled an inch off of the top for the sake of hood clearance but in retrospec I wish I hadn't as it would not have been as much work and easier to replicate down the road if needed but at the time I was building for the M90 intake only but now with the turbo plenum I could have kept the lower intake the same size and just lowered the plenum a bit.

    When I chop up the scrapped head I will post the pics here. I'll cut through the center of an intake and exhaust port. I will probably get to it tomorrow sometime.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flex View Post
    I would love to see the pictures of the cutaway head if you decide to do it.
    Done. I chopped it up this morning. Keep in mind that this head had some porting started on the intake side and about 0.100" milled off the deck as I was trying different speeds and feeds for a good surface finish before I milled the good heads.



    Exhaust:



    Intake:

  4. #79
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    Cool, thanks bud. I will download these and use them for reference.

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flex View Post
    Cool, thanks bud. I will download these and use them for reference.
    You're welcome. If you need any further measurements of them just let me know and I will see what I can do.

  6. #81
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    Any further progress bud?

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flex View Post
    Any further progress bud?
    Yup, work continues on it but I just haven't had much time to put together an update for a bit. I will make some time and sort through the recent photos and bring the thread up to date with over the next couple of days.

    In the interm, here is a propane powered potato cannon that I had to make for work last week on short notice. I didn't get much work on the project last week because I was very busy making that.


  8. #83
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    Oct 2018
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    Since my last update I've successfully managed to ruin another split-port head by getting greedy with the carbide cutter to the point that even welding it couldn't save it.
    Which was quite unfortunate as it was just about finished. So after another $160 including shipping, I have another head to start over with........again...........

    I made the previously covered fuel injector bung mod to the replacement head so I won't cover that again but I did mill the rocker arm pedestals for pushrod guideplates and 7/16" ARP studs.



    On an poorly timed impulse decision I decided to buy a stainless steel rocker arm kit from ebay for around $200 all in. It was a Pro-comp/Speedmaster retrofit 351C kit. Yes, I knew about their reputation and yes I ignored that voice inside my head. I though it might be an OK value as it didn't need pushrod guide plates or machining. So they arrived, with the packaging beat up and the studs packaging open and the studs spilling out in the box. I also thought the studs base thread (head) would be bigger than 5/16" so I could just drill and tap the bolt holes oversize. That was a mistake on my part for rushing my research because the 5/16" thread on the studs is basically the same as the 8mm thread in the head and after you re-tap the 8mm thread to 5/16" the thread is too loose to use. So then I order some Heli-coils for the heads for $30 which I then ended up sending back when I realized I would be way better off just spending an extra $25 and getting 7/16" ARP studs and machining the pedestals and buying guideplates. Why I almost trusted my engine to a tiny chinesium stud instead of a beefy ARP one just to save a buck and some time on the mill I'll never know, major brain fart on my part.

    The studs had their own problems too in that they were too big to actually install a rocker arm on. Every one was 0.004"-0.006" bigger than the hole in the rocker arm. So I put each on in the lathe at cut that much off of them. This was before I learned the error of my ways and scrapped them for the ARP ones.

    Out of the 16 rocker arms I found 12 that I could use due to poor assembly of the pushrod cup. It was not pushed in enough to seat it properly or bottom out. Ugh...why did I buy this junk. At least the stainless steel casting seem good enough and the bearings in it seem fine and the locking nuts on the studs are ok to use but the fun times don't end there because......



    The self aligning rocker "feature" that removes the need for guideplates which is now irrelevant because I will be using guideplates does not fit properly with the stock valvespring setup. The alignment tabs sit on the retainer/keeper and the roller tip of the rocker is 0.075" away from it so it never touches the valve stem. Arrrrrgh........so now it's either machine the tabs off each rocker arm or buy longer valves and associated parts so I will be machining the tabs off the rocker arms.



    I've been accumulating some parts in the interm as well such as these 304SS 4.2L F-140 headers which are of surprising good quality for a product from China. The welds and overall quality are very, very good. If needed I will cut and reweld as needed but as they are going to face forward and down for the turbo it may not be neccessary.



    I also bought a turbo (GT3582 clone), wastegate and blow-off valve. All of which will be getting a full teardown and overall review here when I get the time.





    After that I made some flanges for the turbo out of 1/2" steel plate.



    I also picked up a set of Scat 6.125" H-beam connecting rods from Super Coupes Unlimited and some more mundane stuff from around the internet like gaskets, harmonic balancer, oil pump, freeze plugs etc.

    There is an issue with the intake manifold that I need to address though. The center section bolts on to the lower via 11 fasteners which are inside the intake manifold and should one come loose it will fall into the engine and there is no way to keep an eye on them without pulling the upper manifold off.



    I will not just trust it to loctite only and I don't want to weld each port to the lower manifold so I think I will machine the countersunk bolt hole to a flat bottom and use socket-head cap screws (allen bolts) drilled for safety wire and then wire them all together and add a dab of loctite for good measure. So I have some re-work to do there.
    Last edited by jb351; 09-18-2019 at 11:07 AM.

  9. #84
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    I checked out the recently opened local Makerspace today. It's the first one around in my part of the country.
    The monthly membership will give me access to a bunch of tools and other goodies including; Manual lathe and mill, CNC lathe and CNC mill, 3D Printers, electronics gear, Welding gear, a Waterjet machine, laser engraver and a bunch of other cool stuff.

    I plan to fully embrace my new playground. So many ideas, so little time......

  10. #85
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    Mar 2003
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    Is there any material that you can`t work on?

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flex View Post
    Is there any material that you can`t work on?
    I would say human flesh but the makerspace robotics section had a small robotic articulating arm that takes different attachments so if I stuck a tattoo gun on there I could theoretically program it to tattoo flesh.

    The 3D printers there open up some interesting options going forward. I also use one at work and they are pretty sweet as you can replicate and print damn near anything you can think of or design from flexible gaskets to large parts.

    There is so many different materials you can print out of including carbon-fiber impregnated materials for extremely strong parts. You are really only limited by the size of the printer and your imagination as to what you can make. From interior bezels, bushings, small clips and brackets right up to certain engine parts or adapters. It is great for prototyping parts in plastic quickly before you commit to machining in metal.

  12. #87
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    Salem OR
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    The 3D printers there open up some interesting options going forward.
    Big enough to output c'fiber impregnated wiper cowls?

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Big enough to output c'fiber impregnated wiper cowls?
    Unfortunately not. Limited to the smaller stuff I'm afraid.

  14. #89
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    I drew up a replacement thermostat flange. I will machine it and rebuild my existing one later this week and see how it goes. Should just be a matter of cutting and re-welding the existing pipes and then resurfacing the flange surface.


  15. #90
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    Should be easy enough for you Jeff and is a good improvement part. You can also machine an aluminum replacement for the brittle plastic under the coolant bleeder screw like TBSC is doing.

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