93 SC CEL code 214

sanddune24

Registered User
I have a 93 SC with 61,000 miles that I purchased non running with a blown engine. I have installed a new long block from SCUI and I am getting a CEL with code 214.


My researched suggest that normally it is a cam sensor.
Engine starts fine. No excessive cranking, starts on first crank each time.
CEL only comes on off of ideal around 1200 rpm and up. CEL shuts off when rpms drop back to idle.
I have tried 3 different cam sensors, one of them new.
I have tried 3 different DIS modules, one of them new.
The up shift light is not on when cranking so I do not believe it to be the crank sensor, but maybe?
Installed new plugs and wires when engine was replaced.

Any thoughts?

Thank You
 
A - confirm there is only one red rubber gasket inside the cam sensor connector and the retainer isn't broken
B - does the tach bounce/dance?
C - how would you describe the wiring harness on the front of the engine...cam sensor, crank sensor, coil - any visible damage/cuts? Oil soaked? Original or opened/re-wrapped? Broken retainers/clips?
D - did you install a new ground cable on the pass. side mount to the body when swapping motors? Is the bolt head on the body end green/corroded?
E - is the spout plug installed? Pins clean?
 
A - confirm there is only one red rubber gasket inside the cam sensor connector and the retainer isn't broken- Checked only one gasket, connector is seated all he way in.
B - does the tach bounce/dance? No, tach is not bouncing.
C - how would you describe the wiring harness on the front of the engine...cam sensor, crank sensor, coil - any visible damage/cuts? Oil soaked? Original or opened/re-wrapped? Broken retainers/clips? Wiring harness looks to be in good condition, Tabs on cam sensor plug are broke but connector is all of the way in.
D - did you install a new ground cable on the pass. side mount to the body when swapping motors? Is the bolt head on the body end green/corroded? I did not install new ground, but did clean it before hooking it back up. I have checked the ground back to the negative batter terminal with my meter and it tests at .ooo ohms.
E - is the spout plug installed? Pins clean?
Pulled plug and cleaned added some dielectric grease.

Thanks
 
My opinion is you have one or more wiring/harness/connector/ground issues. If it was a sensor, it would either fail outright, or go on/off due to heat. It wouldn't come/go w/CEL on/off/on as you describe, I think.

I would begin by only having a new cam sensor installed, strictly using a fresh/new connector (de-pin the old one, don't splice), confirming the metal tangs on the harness end grab the pins on the connector. Spray them with connector cleaner. Use dielectric grease on the rubber gasket, not on the tangs/pins (if you want to play with used cam sensors, put them on a bench and do comparative ohm checks).

Once those are installed, I'd run it at idle and start wiggling the harness around the DIS, cam sensor and the main upper big multi-wire connector should be right above the A/C compressor and it's tensioner/idler. Pull related connectors and spray with connector cleaner, connector grease on the connector bodies/gaskets only, not on the pins. Confirm no green corrosion or missing keepers.

About cleaning grounds, etc. When you say 'cleaned', were there any signs of green corrosion anywhere? Did you clean as in wipe them off, or did you have to go after them before you could see shiny metal?

Do you have a good digital volt/ohm meter and know how to do voltage drop testing? Are you set up to backprobe connectors?

Running a chip/modified engine computer?

Have you checked the balancer to see if any wobble?
 
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My opinion is you have one or more wiring/harness/connector/ground issues. If it was a sensor, it would either fail outright, or go on/off due to heat. It wouldn't come/go w/CEL on/off/on as you describe, I think.

I would begin by only having a new cam sensor installed, strictly using a fresh/new connector (de-pin the old one, don't splice), confirming the metal tangs on the harness end grab the pins on the connector. Spray them with connector cleaner. Use dielectric grease on the rubber gasket, not on the tangs/pins (if you want to play with used cam sensors, put them on a bench and do comparative ohm checks).

Once those are installed, I'd run it at idle and start wiggling the harness around the DIS, cam sensor and the main upper big multi-wire connector should be right above the A/C compressor and it's tensioner/idler. Pull related connectors and spray with connector cleaner, connector grease on the connector bodies/gaskets only, not on the pins. Confirm no green corrosion or missing keepers.

About cleaning grounds, etc. When you say 'cleaned', were there any signs of green corrosion anywhere? Did you clean as in wipe them off, or did you have to go after them before you could see shiny metal?

Do you have a good digital volt/ohm meter and know how to do voltage drop testing? Are you set up to backprobe connectors?

Running a chip/modified engine computer?

Have you checked the balancer to see if any wobble?


You were spot on KMT.
I went through checking my grounds and I noticed I forgot to reinstall the body mount screw on the IRCM that I had replaced.

Screwed that back in and cleared the codes. Drove about 4 miles and no CEL.

As far as replacing the connector at the cam sensor, do you have a source for that part or do you just recommend buying the pigtail and remove the wires from the new connector and pin it back with the old wires?

I appreciate your input.

Thank You
 
Good news that ;)

I've seen new connectors w/pigtails at AutoZone, but they seemed pricey. And yes, I de-pin, keeping the stock leads, assuming they pass visual inspection.

I've got a few used, and can shot one to Mesa for a few bucks to cover postage, but no promises on how durable the keepers would be. PM me if you get stuck.

Ken
 
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