abs rebuild with GM parts not working?

Sc-90 blackbird

Registered User
ok long story short

i bought a 1990 sc bird with the plagued abs problems. (cars runs great with amazing one owner documented owner history)


so far ive replaced and find bad one relay

pump motor not working, (i rebuilt the og with no success main seal leaked after rebuiled)


i find a new acc ball and PUMP MOTOR from a ebay seller (not the same seller)


PUMP MOTOR is from a GM car BUICK RETTIA spins clockwise motion) don't recall what the og spun?

ACC ball who knows CHINA?

ok so after i pulled the abs unit and installing the new parts i feel like the pump hasnt primed
i did drain the abs unit.

???will this buick rettiea PUMP MOTOR work on our cars? so far sounds great and took extra precaution to make sure seals are correct no leaks at the moment.

? the acc ball is a little different than the one i removed but is new?

as of right now ive bleed the brake lines (although still a little spongy) and cant not get the dash lights to go off or stop pumping


iam i wasting my time with GM pump motor?

is the pump not primed?

pulling my hair out lol and advice would be greatly appreciated thanks!
 
Good afternoon


Welcome to SCCOA. This is a well discussed issue (s) so use the search feature. Here are some information on the subject.


Most new replacement accumulator balls will be smaller (and not have the top hex "socket" removal feature) for late model cars using abs system than the original units but will have no effect on the operation.

If the leak from the original pump was leaking from the shaft seal a suitable replacement was discussed in the following posts:


http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?139888-looking-for-Teves-II-hydraulic-pump-motor

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136849-Abs-pump-motor-FIXED!!!!!/page3


As for bleeding brakes on 1989 - 1992 the abs must be on to bleed the rear. See the following Post:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?51824-Bleeding


Sounds like the abs hydraulic has air in the system. See post below:

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?138888-ABS-Pump-Motor-Priming


One method to clear this air is to back off the accumulator ball a few turns from the hydraulic unit. This will help relieve the pumps effort and to give the air one path to clear.


Good Luck.
 
Last edited:
Buick rettia pump motor

ok so i bleeded the brakes lines they still fill "spungy" having trouble with little to no fluid coming out if the RR brake caliper

my question could the buick rettia pump spins cloclk wise does the og spin CCW?
 
Good evening


Teves II 4 wheel Integral systems: The master brake cylinder, ABS modulator and pump are integrated into one assembly. Years 1985 - 1993 (including Buick Reatta and Regal). Source AA1Car.

Form and fit are different. Functions are all the same.


I have never remove the pump to check rotation. I am unaware of any teves II 4 wheel integral system addressing a pump rotational operation.


If little to no fluid and or air bubbles observed during rear brake bleeding there is air in the system. May require two people and a vacuum "gun" for this procedure. Was the reservoir low and or empty?




If you are unsure about the pump pressure operation you can check pressure output. Depressurize the system. Remove the accumulator and the install a high pressure hose and gauge set. Power system. Observe pressure increase. Check reservoir. Be cautious/careful.
 
ok so i bleeded the brakes lines they still fill "spungy" having trouble with little to no fluid coming out if the RR brake caliper

my question could the buick rettia pump spins cloclk wise does the og spin CCW?

The Teves II is standard across so many cars, so I doubt the rotation of the pump motor would be wired differently. If you have already mounted and installed the ABS unit in the car, then try this:

1. pump the brake pedal with the key off about 30 times. trying to purge the pressure and push the fluid back into the reservoir.

2. Key on and let it run for a minute.. if the lights fail to turn off, then press the pedal 2-3 times. listen for the sound of the motor.
repeat step 1, 2.

3. take off the LR wheel and run a clear 2' plastic line from the bleeder to a clear plastic container. Open the bleeder valve about 1/4 turn.
If you don't have clear line, just use whatever rubber hose works for you.

4. Repeat step 2. Only this time when you press the pedal, a noticable amount of fluid should exit the rear caliper and into the container.
Push about a pint into the container and close the bleeder.

This should have pushed enough fluid through the pump to prime it and it should now build pressure, the lights should turn off and after a short time, the pump should shut off by itself. It that happens, then proceed to bleed the RR and then the fronts. You'll need 2 people for the front lines unless you have speed bleeder valves installed. Good old fashioned open bleeder, press pedal, close bleeder, release pedal procedure.

You must have the key on to bleed the rear lines. It doesn't matter for the front lines.
 
Back
Top