A '10' is a pause/separator, not a code.
If the engine was completely warmed up and goose tested at the appropriate time etc., those are confusing codes to all see at the same time... I'd wonder more about harness and grounds than combined component fails.
Do you know if the ECU is even the right one?
I've got about 30K Ohms on my new ECT.
I no longer test ohms when looking at the ECT. I test volts now days.
Which of These is Not a Symptom of a Potentially Bad ECT Sensor?
- Continuous rich air-fuel mixture
- Continuous lean air-fuel mixture
- Rough idle
- Engine misfire
- Engine stalling
- Increased emissions
- Increased fuel consumption
Answer is: misfire…
LG/Y is signal out at ECT. This goes to EEC. Backprobe it to check when engine runs and heats up. Ground black lead off DVOM to complete circuit to test. If meter does not auto range, be sure to use lower scale to read DC 5v and less.
Spec for low speed fan turn on is 0.37v coming out of the ECT, at it's connector. Must be above 50° ambient.
This is what I observed on my '90 Anny SC (
cooling system stock except for aluminum radiator, only things not replaced over time are heater core & heat exchanger at the oil filter):
• 0.60v = 194°, below N on the gauge, stock thermostat 195°
• 0.53v = 200°~ 205° and N on the gauge
• 0.46 left side of O, 212~215°
• 0.42 almost straight up O ~ R, 218°?
• 0.39 220°~222° low speed fan turn on, left side of R
• Fan comes on and drives it back to N +/- depending on load and ambient air temp, etc.
References...
Temperature|Resistance (K Ω)|Voltage Drop
- 50° F (10° C) 58.75 Ω 3.51 V DC
- 68° F (20° C) 37.30 Ω 3.07 V DC
- 86° F (30° C) 24.27 Ω 2.60 V DC
- 104° F (40° C) 16.15 Ω 2.13 V DC
- 122° F (50° C) 10.97 Ω 1.7 V DC
- 140° F (60° C) 7.70 Ω 1.33 V DC
- 158° F (70° C) 5.37 Ω 1.02 V DC
- 176° F (80° C) 3.84 Ω 0.78 V DC
- 194° F (90° C) 2.80 Ω 0.60 V DC
- 212° F (100° C) 2.07 Ω 0.46 V DC