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Thread: Best part number/item for thermostat gasket?

  1. #1
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    Best part number/item for thermostat gasket?

    So I've bought two different thermostat gaskets locally here at AZ and O'Reilly's and they just don't match the Tstat housing openings like they're supposed to. The holes "sort of" line up. Does anyone have a good source for thermostat gaskets that work/fit correctly?

  2. #2
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    I prefer Fel-Pro #35459 ...light blue so you can't miss it. https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...25119_199430_0 - Bolt holes and bypass hole line up correctly, but the hole for the thermostat overlaps/is smaller, helps to hold it in the housing during assembly.

    I coat it and the thermostat housing flange with blue RTV, let it sit for a few minutes, then assemble, waiting overnite before refilling w/coolant and run testing.

    If you're having issues sealing, be sure the flange is flat, including around the bolt holes. Don't overtorque when assembling, I use 22 ft. lbs.
    Last edited by KMT; 09-05-2019 at 01:02 PM.

  3. #3
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    Thanks KMT!

  4. #4
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    I'd always been a fan of using the gaskets, but that's changed. Twice (once with my SC) the thermostat housing I had just installed weeks earlier started leaking. In both cases, the RTV did not fail. The gasket was actually saturated and wicking the coolant out. The one I had installed in the SC was Felpro. I've since started using RTV only, snugging the bolts just enough for the RTV to spread evenly, and then tightening the bolts hours later or the next day. That keeps the RTV from squeezing out so it can become a nice gasket before being compressed. I've never had a failure since, even with warped housings.
    Side note: every time I got a thermostat gasket for my SC from the part stores, it was the wrong shape. They gave me the right part number but the gasket was clearly for a different car.
    Last edited by Norm-L; 09-05-2019 at 07:09 PM.

  5. #5
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    Since I tried just RTV twice I went the FelPro route. I put a film of RTV on the gasket and mated it to the thermostat housing. I let it set for 2 hours and then put a thin coat on the gasket/housing and mated it to the car. Waited 24 hours to fill and all is well. I really like the drain cock on the radiator since its easy to put a flex-tube on the spigot and drain into a clean milk jug. Take out about 1 liter of fluid and the thermostat housing and intake are dry. Easy stuff there. I used a coffee filter to make sure I wasn't putting anything nasty back in.

    Thanks for the advice guys.

  6. #6
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    I hope everything works out for you, but keep an eye on it. It took weeks before my Felpro gasket absorbed enough to complete the coolant's escape path and start dripping very slowly. When I fixed it for the last time, the housing came off easily as the coolant drenched gasket separated all the way around, still perfectly adhered to the RTV on the intake and the housing. I will say, the Felpro gasket took much longer to fail than the other brand we used at work. Otherwise, Felpro does make great stuff.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norm-L View Post
    I hope everything works out for you
    Done right, I'm sure it will.

    Heck, I knew an old salt that hated gaskets, adhesives -and- fasteners...he'd just weld things shut and dare them to leak

    Thankfully, gaskets and adhesives have advanced over the ages. Any trouble sealing things up these days, you've got bigger issues.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by potshotscott View Post
    ...and all is well.
    Nice work, Scott, thanks for the followup and g'luck w/it.

    Ken

  9. #9
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    Thanks - oddly enough my code 118 is back - brand new sensor too. From here I need to check Voltages and resistance of the sensor. I still have all your notes from a few weeks ago. The sensor keeps the car from starting on occasion - quite annoying but it's cheating the computer to flood the engine with fuel... very odd indeed.
    Last edited by potshotscott; 09-14-2019 at 12:15 AM. Reason: code 118

  10. #10
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    111? I thought that was system pass/ok? Remind me what the issue was last time, pls./thanks.

    http://www.njtacc.com/tech/eec_codes.html

  11. #11
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    Code 118. The Coolant Temp Sensor is sending (or the PCM is receiving) the wrong Voltage. It really affects the mixture of the car when starting warm. I have the EVTM so I should be able to solve this one in a weekend.

  12. #12
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    If the EVTM doesn't give enough hints, did you see my recent thread about the fun I had my car's cooling system? Ref. voltage was off due to corrosion in a connector, but in my case there were no codes.


    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...ght=ref.+volts

  13. #13
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    I did see this thread and recall seeing another one where you might have referenced your actual Voltage drops. I need to go back in the EVTM to what the source Voltage should be. I'm on a new (refurb) PCM. Perhaps the old PCM was fine and I have corrosion as you suggest. Either way I should be able to dig in later today. Thanks KMT.

  14. #14
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    Ref. voltage is 4.00v ~ 5.00v - use caution when testing.

    I eventually found my issue by checking at the ECT...was low there, and I was ready to break out my backup PCM, then I checked at the main connector back on the harness. Was good going in, low coming out. I had already checked the signal out of the ECT, and since it didn't jive with engine temp, I replaced it, but when nothing changed, I finally sniffed ref. volts. and started backtracking. Next time I'll start by verifying ref. volts at different sensors/components first.

    I like to think that since the ref. voltage is shared across different sensors/components, that if it is the PCM's base fault, they will all complain/throw codes, but again, in my case, no codes, just late fan turn-on.

    The corrosion in the main harness was affecting more than just the ECT, I think - guess I put too much faith in no codes, but I have to wonder what else was marginalized, from MAF to injectors to ACT, etc. In any case, I've corrected the issue and verified ref. volts at the rest of the affected circuits.

    And don't forget all the grounds, too.

  15. #15
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    Does the 5V come directly from the PCM? I appears to in the EVTM. Wondering if it goes through the IRCM first... tearing it down now.

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