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Thread: New to the super coupe world

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
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    10

    New to the super coupe world

    Hi Iím Carl

    I just bought a 1991 Thunderbird sc . Iím not sure why but, I just couldnít stop thinking, how cool of a car it could be. Iím by no means a mechanic. Iím having a clutch put in it now, I found it at Summit racing. Iím having trouble finding parts. I need to reseal the motor as itís leaking oil every where. Any advice? I also will need brakes if you know of anything upgrades are welcome. I do want to stay with stock tire sizes ( no low profile) . Name:  D955726D-418E-4045-86E5-7AA683219FA9.jpeg
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Canton, GA
    Posts
    305
    Hey Carl,

    Welcome to the forums, I’m not much of a mechanic either, but I’ve gotten lots of help from the SCCoA for years. I will warn you that 1989-1992 Supercoupes tend to have problems with their master cylinder assembly (especially old accumulator balls). Some people like to have the old system fixed, some people like replacing it with the newer system altogether. Supercoupes also tend to prematurely wear out headgaskets (not saying that’s what your issue is) but these little engines are pretty complicated for their time so you’ve come to the right place for advice and information. I’m not an expert on these cars, but I’ve had to deal with braking issues and blown headgaskets on these cars and benefitted from the knowledge of other Super-Coupers.

    If you are looking for parts, Supercoupe Performance and TBSC Shop may have what you need. Some SCCoA members may also sell parts you need.


    https://www.supercoupeperformance.co...-thunderbird-1


    https://www.tbscshop.com/?gclid=Cj0K...UaAmYkEALw_wcB

    My first car was a white 1991 Thunderbird SC with a moonroof and 5-speed, so I felt I should say hi.
    Last edited by Rick_Leuce; 12-21-2019 at 05:04 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    10
    Thank you, for the reply. I definitely want to upgrade the brakes . Itís the most important part of the car for me .Any all all advice is needed at this point other than low profile tires. I want to drive the car and we have a bad freeze thaw here.


    Iím not sure, what part/parts of the motor are leaking. I just plan on replacing all the gaskets including the head gasket ( I sure, hope itís not bad , could be Iím have no idea) .

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Canton, GA
    Posts
    305
    I recently bought a 1993 Thunderbird SC and I'm a much bigger fan of it's brakes over the 1989-1992 style. Not only do 1993-1997 Thunderbirds use a more reliable system than the Teves Mark II ABS Brake Master Cylinder Assembly, they have slightly bigger rotors. I myself have never done the conversion, but I'm thinking about going ahead and buying the necessary parts. If possible, I may even see if I can get some parts from Thunderbirds at a scrap yard, but we'll see. I might just be content with fresh brake pads and larger rotors (I wonder if non-SCs have most of the same parts and/or if they are worth pulling).

    I'd like to see what other Super Coupers think, but you could probably try searching for old posts on this subject to see what others have tried.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem OR
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    7,271
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_Leuce View Post
    I'd like to see what other Super Coupers think
    For my '90 35th, I've replaced the accumulator, ARC pressure switch, and relays over time, so the ABS is sorted - not at all tempted to abandon it. Otherwise, KVR pads & black anodized slotted rotors all around, steel braided hoses and fresh fluid every three years. Braking is excellent.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    39
    For front brakes just find some 93+ Spindles and order some 04 Mustang Calipers and pads. All 89-97 T-Bird rotors are 10.865". https://www.tccoa.com/threads/mustan...roblems.57171/
    I have PBR's on my T-Bird and they are like 20x better then stock brakes. Just use plain rotors, they work good.
    Good luck with your T-Bird, wish I could help you with your Teves II setup but I am not knowledgeable with that setup. Im currently using Hydro-Boost but my power steering pump is loud because of it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Va. Beach,Va.
    Posts
    7,133
    Welcome to this site and the world/experiences with Supercoupes. On this site the search button is you're best friend, as you get use to navigating this website you'll understand. There's also a Facebook SCCOA group that you can join also.
    SCCOA Member #2406
    '94 SC AUTO - 2.3 Whipple
    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/garage_v..._vehicle&id=19

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Madison, Ohio
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    17,665
    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    For my '90 35th, I've replaced the accumulator, ARC pressure switch, and relays over time, so the ABS is sorted - not at all tempted to abandon it. Otherwise, KVR pads & black anodized slotted rotors all around, steel braided hoses and fresh fluid every three years. Braking is excellent.
    This. No need to change the braking system at all, just maintain it and use good pads and rotors. Maintenance is a bit frustrating at first until you learn it, but it's not a bad system at all, especially if you want to keep the stock wheels.

    If you aren't a mechanic or mechanically inclined, Idk if I'd get into engine work. Honestly a properly rebuilt motor is really the best way to go but it will cost about $2500. Even having yours professionally refreshed isn't going to be cheap but our shop has done plenty of refreshes for about 1/2 the cost of an actual rebuild with great success.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  9. #9
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    Nov 2012
    Location
    Canton, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin92 View Post
    For front brakes just find some 93+ Spindles and order some 04 Mustang Calipers and pads. All 89-97 T-Bird rotors are 10.865". https://www.tccoa.com/threads/mustan...roblems.57171/
    I have PBR's on my T-Bird and they are like 20x better then stock brakes. Just use plain rotors, they work good.
    My mistake; I misunderstood some information I read and assumed that 1993+ Thunderbirds came with larger rotors on the front.
    I know of a junkyard nearby that has 1994+ Thunderbirds in it but none of them are Supercoupes. Out of curiosity, is it worth pulling the front spindles (or any other related parts) from a 1993+ Thunderbird LX to put on a 1989-1991 SC?
    Last edited by Rick_Leuce; 12-22-2019 at 12:10 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem OR
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    7,271
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick_Leuce View Post
    ... is it worth pulling the front spindles (or any other related parts) ?
    Moving to late model spindles is done to be able to use better performing calipers, typically dual-piston Mustang PBR calipers. If it's worth it depends on how you feel about the investment in time/money, but according to those that have made the jump, yes. If the parts fell into my lap I might be motivated, but so far, it's just an intriguing mod to me.

    See that very comprehensive TCCOA thread, keep in mind the mod at the calipers for the early hoses to fit, and how the ABS sensor leads & connectors are dissimilar early-to-late if you plan on hybridizing them for whatever reason. If you don't mind ending up with and/or paying for extra parts, just grab fully loaded spindles, but the MN12 calipers are normally discarded in favor of the PBRs (w/o Mustang pads), so might as well leave them behind. Be sure to grab the heat shields too. Remember that hubs and ABS sensors don't always want to come off easily, so... You can damage the sensors when trying to remove them, and fresh ones aren't cheap.

    Donors:
    • Spindles: 1993+ Thunderbird~Cougar/MK VIII (MN12s)
    • PBR calipers: '99-'04 Mustangs (see if the price you pay for used is less than the core charge when buying fresh, or just kit them if that's up your alley)
    Last edited by KMT; 12-22-2019 at 02:36 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem OR
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    Carl:

    That new-to-you '91 SC cleaned up pretty nice Someone remind me if '91's came w/clear corners up front?

    Typical oli leaks can be from loose valve covers, pan seal, rear main, etc. Pan doesn't use a gasket and the engine needs to come out to re-do the sealer. Sometimes the dipstick tube can leak at the block. Power steering leaks are common, and fixing them can be involved. Cooling leaks are common too if that system has been ignored. Keep in mind the age of these cars and how they don't take kindly to just sitting. Head gaskets are non-trivial, but mostly just work. Helps to know the car's history.

    As Dave notes, if you don't already have the skills, you might want to avoid tackling specific engine work on your own. Just changing plugs can be a challenge.

    Where are you located?

    Thanks for sharing, good luck w/your SC, welcome to the forums & Happy Holidays to you/yours.

    Ken

  12. #12
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    Nov 2012
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    Canton, GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Someone remind me if '91's came w/clear corners
    My 1990, 1991, and 1993 had amber corners when I got them. I always thought clear corners were an aftermarket part.

    Next time I go to the junkyard Iíll try to save some corners; one of mine is pretty scuffed and I never thought to save a pair or two in the past.

  13. #13
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem OR
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    [QUOTE=Rick_Leuce;1124755]My 1990, 1991, and 1993 had amber corners when I got them. I always thought clear corners were an aftermarket part.

    Me too, thanks for confirming. Clear look cleaner to me, and you still get to keep the orange bulb. I think they look especially good on a white SC, like the OP's '91.

    New orange corners are less than $50/pr. off eBay, but if you can find like-new at PnP, they look to want around $35/pr. w/fees.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    10
    Thank you, all for your time and reply. Itís really helpful to see what others have done to add to the cars.


    I have a shop that will be doing the motor reseal . It will take about a month but, itís a one man shop and he is in his 60ís with other cars to fix. We agreed on he will be fairly priced . We couldnít get a price due to he nor I know, the history of it. Iím okay spending money for it to be safe and reliable . .

    In my opinion, the car is not rusty but, it seems no one did any maintenance ?

    I will do the brakes and small stuff. Iíve done them before. I actually, helped build a Sunbeam Tiger if anyone knows what they are ( odd ball car ) Iím just not comfortable with the interns of the engine or a Super charger.

    I live near Summit racing Ohio ( rust belt ) .

  15. #15
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    May 2002
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    Dallas, TX
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    5,745
    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    This. No need to change the braking system at all, just maintain it and use good pads and rotors. Maintenance is a bit frustrating at first until you learn it, but it's not a bad system at all, especially if you want to keep the stock wheels.
    The Teves II works great... when it works.. LOL.. But when it doesn't, you will want to take it and toss it over a cliff! I've managed to cobble together, and rebuild these things a dozen times over the years; I've pulled motors apart, replace shaft seals, accumulators, switches, and the pumps themselves.. they are a ~~~~ to remove and reinstall. But look up the tips here, and take your time, spend as much time on the bench with the unit, be gentle with the oring seals.

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