Most issue is under medium to heavy acceleration
I assume you've no idea how old the plugs and wires are? Does the tach jump around or engine shut down when it happens? Is the car ever hard to start, taking more than one try?
Have you cleaned the MAF?
The book keeps pointing to TPS and/or injectors, but, missing/hesitation on our cars frequently points to plugs/wires. That said, 100 miles/tank screams injector problems. if one or more is leaking/stuck, it can cause a misfire, among other problems, including raising hell with O2 sensors & cats. Do you smell fuel on the dipstick? Can you put a fuel gauge on the injector rail to check/watch pressure?
I know on my car the injectors were not in good shape when I did headgaskets last year. Mileage went from 12 before the work, to 25 mpg. after. I had a spare set of injectors I sent out for cleaning/matching and used them when I put the engine back together.
Might need to pull spark plugs and take a look, which would be a good excuse to install fresh plugs and wires. Tricky on our cars, so search for tips or speak up.
Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the driver side head and see if there is raw fuel present in it, or in it's port on the regulator.
no CEL until it studder the light will come on for about 2-5 seconds
I've never seen it, but I've heard a severe enough misfire can cause CEL to blink. Might be one or more components acting out when hot, from DIS to crank sensor, etc. I'd want to know about any codes before throwing parts at it.
don't know mileage on bbk bought the car with it already on I've driven the car aprox 300 miles so far
BBK should be a good enough product, I think, but I've seen complaints about vacuum leaks and chasing TPS signals when the shaft/bearings get worn. Unless yours is really worn out/old, I doubt it's a player in your current issue.
You may have more than one issue, but I'll take a guess where I'd focus efforts:
- plugs/wires
- injectors
- EEC itself
Read codes first, do what I suggested above (
MAF gentle clean & FPR/pressure check, you want to know how much at idle, under boost, and how long pressure holds when the engine is hot and shutdown/sitting), then start with plugs/wires. Looking at the plugs might finger point to injectors. Based on what you find, you may decide to do the work to take the injectors out and have them checked/cleaned etc. Or, you might just do plugs and wires and see if that fixes/helps the issue.
If it does, great. If not, and there isn't clear evidence (
without removing them to check) that the injectors are giving you grief, I'd want to look at the EEC next. BTW, best way I know to test one is to replace it with a good one. All of this includes knowing what codes were being thrown. Good news is refurb'd EECs should be easy to locate and not too pricey.