Possibly bad tps need some help

Pulled the wire for the cam sensor didn't get any new codes but definitely ran worse and of course no tach think I'm gonna switch the sensor out because I have one and see what happens..
 
Did the fuel pressure test KOEOF 40lbs KEORUN 32lbs If you Rev the engine pressure goes up to aprox 50 after 15 mins hold time still at 39 so not a fuel pressure regulator is assume.

Sounds like what you're observing at idle is good. Not sure about the rise to 50, tho, unless that was under boost? Maybe just heat in the fuel...

If not, can you put the engine under boost to see if the increase in fuel pressure equals the amount of boost?

Sorry if I missed it, did you confirm no raw fuel in the vacuum line at the regulator?

While you are back there, try to confirm the ground wire off the harness is part of the bolt/nut stack holding the regulator to the back of the head.
 
Haven't confirmed raw fuel but I have looked at the ground on the head a few months ago trying to figure out a different problem and it was good clean and secure and yes that was under boost with the fuel pressure jumping up that high
 
Unless you see raw fuel in the regulator, based on what you've reported it's not an issue, move on, and I wouldn't go thru all the hoops to change it.

About changing out cam sensors, I wouldn't bother unless you have a new one in the box to swap with. Not worth the trouble if you're just juggling used ones.

On that subject, I've had issues where during installation, the red rubber gasket inside the connector was doubled up, preventing the connector from reliably seating. Be sure to eyeball the connector to confirm at least, but not more than, one gasket is in play.

Did we talk about verifying the spark plug firing order?

Seems like we've gone over most if not all the common stuf. You may be looking at a compression test and injector inspections at this point. Not looking like a simple fix is going to do it, whatever 'it' is, sorry.
 
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Yeah I can check out the firing order that's not a problem I have it in a book pretty sure it's correct but definitely no harm in double checking its hard to explain but it feels like a electrical issue or computer communication problem sort of as if you're going to slow in a high gear where it's almost stalling the engine then other times runs very strong a real head scratcher
 
Yeah I can check out the firing order that's not a problem I have it in a book

Depends on the book, but at least one common book has it wrong.

This is the correct order/layout:
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I'll double check that and I have a question I belive when I had the motor out I set the cam synchro. At 26 degrees past dead center but what if I was 180 out or used the wrong mark on the balancer which is bhj can you confirm which mark I'm supposed to use so I can double check that as well?
 
I have a question I belive when I had the motor out I set the cam synchro. At 26 degrees past dead center but what if I was 180 out or used the wrong mark on the balancer which is bhj can you confirm which mark I'm supposed to use so I can double check that as well?
Seen these two threads?

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...am-sensor-right&highlight=26+deg+bhj+balancer

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?125727-cam-synchro-install&highlight=cam+synchro
 
So checked out those threads good info I'm certain that my sensor is timmed exactly like that what I don't know is if I'm 100% on 26 ATDC so gonna look for some info as to where or if there is a 26 ATDC mark on the bhj balancer and confirm that's correct
 
So I wasn't on 26 ATDC I was off a bit corrected that and double checked firing order which was correct when I drive it again I'll see if it's any different
 
So I wasn't on 26 ATDC I was off a bit corrected that and double checked firing order which was correct when I drive it again I'll see if it's any different

Given some of the changes you've done recently, it might be good to disconnect the battery and let the EEC's ram drain/clear, then when you fire it up next time, let it idle for 10 ~ 15 minutes so it can relearn the idle, then drive it around normally for another 15 minutes so it can relearn new sensors, timing, etc. in action. Lean on the horn for a minute or two with the battery disconnected to help drain the stored memory in the EEC.
 
Was not aware of how to drop temp memory on obd1 but it sounds like that's what your saying I know with programming keys Obd2 there is a different process but that'd good info and I'll definitely do that thank you for the guidance and all you do for our small community of cars
 
That definitely made a positive difference alot less studder still some after driving a good 35-40 miles and noticed my oil pressure drops slightly on standard acceraltion comes right back to normal between gears and stays normal once you level out your speed oil is full and fresh not 100% that it's actually dropping or if it's a faulty sending unit ever seen that issue before?
 
Are you looking at the factory oil pressure gauge or something aftermarket? The factory gauge is just an idiot light - it doesn't read actual pressure, just if you have some, or not.
 
That's odd cause it definitely sits at different positions while driving so if it where 0-100 while idling it is at 50 then while holding steady at interstate speed more like 40 or 45 while acceraltion more like 30 to 35 what would cause such a fluctuation on the gauge I'm familiar with the dummy Guage thing my work van has that where as long as there is some pressure it reads normal but in the SC it's definitely changing
 
There is a deal where you can wire in a resistor (?) and make it act like a real gauge - perhaps someone did that mod.
 
I don't think the people that had the car before me would have been smart enough to to pull that off basing off all the other things they have done wrong I'll probably get a mech gauge and temp set up so I can see if it's really dropping or it could just be wiring issue (interior has alot of those)
 
what would cause such a fluctuation on the gauge
Mine just moves up with the engine running - it's hard to tell if it ever changes otherwise.

Check the push-on wiring connector at the sender. Be sure it is clean and tight. It might be hard to get to, tho. From the front, it's to the right of the water pump, behind the accy. bracket.

If you can get it off to check it, make sure it and the post on the sender are clean, no green corrosion - you can squeeze it down a bit if you're careful with some pliers so it grips the post better. Do the same thing with the connector on the temp sender on the thermostat housing.

Otherwise, it may be an issue with the cluster. In those cases I start by swapping in another gauge while inspecting the two main large connectors on the back and the circuit boards inside.
 
So I drive the car again it was right back to its old way of bucking and studdering so now I'm wondering is it possible that when the oil pressure drops and sometimes it goes low enough for the red check gauges light to come on and the cel will come on but as soon as oil pressure goes up both lights go out could that be messing with the computer somehow? And also how much affect can the o2 sensors have I do throw codes for them but can they cause this amount of problems? Gonna check oil pressure sending unit terminal and wire tomorrow
 
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