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Thread: Possibly bad tps need some help

  1. #61
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    No I haven't tried that but I will

  2. #62
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    Pulled the wire for the cam sensor didn't get any new codes but definitely ran worse and of course no tach think I'm gonna switch the sensor out because I have one and see what happens..

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th View Post
    Did the fuel pressure test KOEOF 40lbs KEORUN 32lbs If you Rev the engine pressure goes up to aprox 50 after 15 mins hold time still at 39 so not a fuel pressure regulator is assume.
    Sounds like what you're observing at idle is good. Not sure about the rise to 50, tho, unless that was under boost? Maybe just heat in the fuel...

    If not, can you put the engine under boost to see if the increase in fuel pressure equals the amount of boost?

    Sorry if I missed it, did you confirm no raw fuel in the vacuum line at the regulator?

    While you are back there, try to confirm the ground wire off the harness is part of the bolt/nut stack holding the regulator to the back of the head.

  4. #64
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    Haven't confirmed raw fuel but I have looked at the ground on the head a few months ago trying to figure out a different problem and it was good clean and secure and yes that was under boost with the fuel pressure jumping up that high

  5. #65
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    Unless you see raw fuel in the regulator, based on what you've reported it's not an issue, move on, and I wouldn't go thru all the hoops to change it.

    About changing out cam sensors, I wouldn't bother unless you have a new one in the box to swap with. Not worth the trouble if you're just juggling used ones.

    On that subject, I've had issues where during installation, the red rubber gasket inside the connector was doubled up, preventing the connector from reliably seating. Be sure to eyeball the connector to confirm at least, but not more than, one gasket is in play.

    Did we talk about verifying the spark plug firing order?

    Seems like we've gone over most if not all the common stuf. You may be looking at a compression test and injector inspections at this point. Not looking like a simple fix is going to do it, whatever 'it' is, sorry.
    Last edited by KMT; 02-29-2020 at 09:39 PM.

  6. #66
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    Yeah I can check out the firing order that's not a problem I have it in a book pretty sure it's correct but definitely no harm in double checking its hard to explain but it feels like a electrical issue or computer communication problem sort of as if you're going to slow in a high gear where it's almost stalling the engine then other times runs very strong a real head scratcher

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th View Post
    Yeah I can check out the firing order that's not a problem I have it in a book
    Depends on the book, but at least one common book has it wrong.

    This is the correct order/layout:

  8. #68
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    I'll double check that and I have a question I belive when I had the motor out I set the cam synchro. At 26 degrees past dead center but what if I was 180 out or used the wrong mark on the balancer which is bhj can you confirm which mark I'm supposed to use so I can double check that as well?

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th View Post
    I have a question I belive when I had the motor out I set the cam synchro. At 26 degrees past dead center but what if I was 180 out or used the wrong mark on the balancer which is bhj can you confirm which mark I'm supposed to use so I can double check that as well?
    Seen these two threads?

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...g+bhj+balancer

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...ht=cam+synchro

  10. #70
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    So checked out those threads good info I'm certain that my sensor is timmed exactly like that what I don't know is if I'm 100% on 26 ATDC so gonna look for some info as to where or if there is a 26 ATDC mark on the bhj balancer and confirm that's correct

  11. #71
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    So I wasn't on 26 ATDC I was off a bit corrected that and double checked firing order which was correct when I drive it again I'll see if it's any different

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th View Post
    So I wasn't on 26 ATDC I was off a bit corrected that and double checked firing order which was correct when I drive it again I'll see if it's any different
    Given some of the changes you've done recently, it might be good to disconnect the battery and let the EEC's ram drain/clear, then when you fire it up next time, let it idle for 10 ~ 15 minutes so it can relearn the idle, then drive it around normally for another 15 minutes so it can relearn new sensors, timing, etc. in action. Lean on the horn for a minute or two with the battery disconnected to help drain the stored memory in the EEC.

  13. #73
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    Was not aware of how to drop temp memory on obd1 but it sounds like that's what your saying I know with programming keys Obd2 there is a different process but that'd good info and I'll definitely do that thank you for the guidance and all you do for our small community of cars

  14. #74
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    That definitely made a positive difference alot less studder still some after driving a good 35-40 miles and noticed my oil pressure drops slightly on standard acceraltion comes right back to normal between gears and stays normal once you level out your speed oil is full and fresh not 100% that it's actually dropping or if it's a faulty sending unit ever seen that issue before?

  15. #75
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    Are you looking at the factory oil pressure gauge or something aftermarket? The factory gauge is just an idiot light - it doesn't read actual pressure, just if you have some, or not.

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