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Thread: Possibly bad tps need some help

  1. #76
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    May 2018
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    Irmo SC
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    That's odd cause it definitely sits at different positions while driving so if it where 0-100 while idling it is at 50 then while holding steady at interstate speed more like 40 or 45 while acceraltion more like 30 to 35 what would cause such a fluctuation on the gauge I'm familiar with the dummy Guage thing my work van has that where as long as there is some pressure it reads normal but in the SC it's definitely changing

  2. #77
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    Dec 2007
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    Salem OR
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    There is a deal where you can wire in a resistor (?) and make it act like a real gauge - perhaps someone did that mod.

  3. #78
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    I don't think the people that had the car before me would have been smart enough to to pull that off basing off all the other things they have done wrong I'll probably get a mech gauge and temp set up so I can see if it's really dropping or it could just be wiring issue (interior has alot of those)

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th View Post
    what would cause such a fluctuation on the gauge
    Mine just moves up with the engine running - it's hard to tell if it ever changes otherwise.

    Check the push-on wiring connector at the sender. Be sure it is clean and tight. It might be hard to get to, tho. From the front, it's to the right of the water pump, behind the accy. bracket.

    If you can get it off to check it, make sure it and the post on the sender are clean, no green corrosion - you can squeeze it down a bit if you're careful with some pliers so it grips the post better. Do the same thing with the connector on the temp sender on the thermostat housing.

    Otherwise, it may be an issue with the cluster. In those cases I start by swapping in another gauge while inspecting the two main large connectors on the back and the circuit boards inside.

  5. #80
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    May 2018
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    Irmo SC
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    So I drive the car again it was right back to its old way of bucking and studdering so now I'm wondering is it possible that when the oil pressure drops and sometimes it goes low enough for the red check gauges light to come on and the cel will come on but as soon as oil pressure goes up both lights go out could that be messing with the computer somehow? And also how much affect can the o2 sensors have I do throw codes for them but can they cause this amount of problems? Gonna check oil pressure sending unit terminal and wire tomorrow

  6. #81
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    Looking back at this comment: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...45#post1125345

    ...you had right side O2 sensor issues.

    I'd expect O2 sensor issues to contribute to stumbling before oil pressure, unless the engine is trying to seize, of course. Might be low idle/stalling is causing oil fluctuation, but for now I'd not focus on that as a primary issue. Work it later. There is no code for fluctuating/low oil pressure.,,,the EEC doesn't include it in any of it's strategies AFAIK.

    If you don't know the history of the O2 sensors, it might be time to throw fresh ones at it. Sanity check the harnesses first, then pull the right one and inspect. If you do replace them, be sure to research the correct part number, and pls. don't buy cheap...you want fast response, not lazy.

    Remind me...no cats, right?

  7. #82
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    Apr 2002
    Location
    Madison, Ohio
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    Oil gauge issue is 99% a sensor or wire connection. Running issue could be an electrical connection issue - battery cables, fuse box, or other main connector corrosion. If a car sits a lot or has sat with a bad battery I've seen circuit corrosion cause intermittent and random issues like this. You are also looking at some possible ignition system issues like cam sensor, crank sensor, DIS and even EEC issues. All are sensitive to corrosion and 30yrs of being there.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  8. #83
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    Yeah there are no cats

  9. #84
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    So found out the wire for the oil pressure sending unit must have had a problem I pulled the wire off did t see any corrosion but it squeezed it down with a pair of needle nose pliars and that seems to have resolved that so now back to the original issue of how it studder on half to wide open throttle I feel like it's a connection issue to something I just don't know what I think that because sometimes it runs really strong other times very differently.. I feel if it was a mechanical issue it would always be bad but an electrical issue my sometimes grabbing whatever connection and other times not... Does that sound logical to yall or am I just off the rocker

  10. #85
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    Glad you sorted the oil pressure wiring.

    Again, check the O2 sensor wiring/connectors, at the sensor pigtails, at least. Then consider pulling them to eyeball, then consider replacing them just so you know they're not a factor.

    I hate to see parts thrown at these issues, but given the history of this car that's kind of where you're at.

  11. #86
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    Will do... Do you think in your opinion that 02s could cause that much of an issue and I saw a set of Bosch 02s but didn't know based on what you said about not getting cheap ones if that would be good enough is there a brand you recommend or just go with Motorcraft?

  12. #87
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    Also if I where to video from in car looking at instrument cluster on acceraltion would that help or yell you anything?

  13. #88
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    I think Bosch may be part fitted generally (you know, EC-FitzAll~~~44s), so while I've bought them in the past, I've decided not to take the chance going forward. Last O2 sensors I bought were Motorcraft DY-606.

    My opinion is that normal cause/effect with this car is out the window

  14. #89
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    May 2018
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    Smile

    Well that doest sound good 😊 do you think a video would help at all? I find it strange that the cel comes on during heavy acceraltion then goes out once you let off.... Could an exchuast leak have anything to do with any of this?

  15. #90
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    Salem OR
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    I've heard that can mean a heavy misfire under load, such as when excess fuel is being dumped into the cylinders. Remember we talked about the injectors.

    Exhaust leak from where?

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