Possibly bad tps need some help

Looking back at this comment: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthr...-bad-tps-need-some-help&p=1125345#post1125345

...you had right side O2 sensor issues.

I'd expect O2 sensor issues to contribute to stumbling before oil pressure, unless the engine is trying to seize, of course. Might be low idle/stalling is causing oil fluctuation, but for now I'd not focus on that as a primary issue. Work it later. There is no code for fluctuating/low oil pressure.,,,the EEC doesn't include it in any of it's strategies AFAIK.

If you don't know the history of the O2 sensors, it might be time to throw fresh ones at it. Sanity check the harnesses first, then pull the right one and inspect. If you do replace them, be sure to research the correct part number, and pls. don't buy cheap...you want fast response, not lazy.

Remind me...no cats, right?
 
Oil gauge issue is 99% a sensor or wire connection. Running issue could be an electrical connection issue - battery cables, fuse box, or other main connector corrosion. If a car sits a lot or has sat with a bad battery I've seen circuit corrosion cause intermittent and random issues like this. You are also looking at some possible ignition system issues like cam sensor, crank sensor, DIS and even EEC issues. All are sensitive to corrosion and 30yrs of being there.
 
So found out the wire for the oil pressure sending unit must have had a problem I pulled the wire off did t see any corrosion but it squeezed it down with a pair of needle nose pliars and that seems to have resolved that so now back to the original issue of how it studder on half to wide open throttle I feel like it's a connection issue to something I just don't know what I think that because sometimes it runs really strong other times very differently.. I feel if it was a mechanical issue it would always be bad but an electrical issue my sometimes grabbing whatever connection and other times not... Does that sound logical to yall or am I just off the rocker
 
Glad you sorted the oil pressure wiring.

Again, check the O2 sensor wiring/connectors, at the sensor pigtails, at least. Then consider pulling them to eyeball, then consider replacing them just so you know they're not a factor.

I hate to see parts thrown at these issues, but given the history of this car that's kind of where you're at.
 
Will do... Do you think in your opinion that 02s could cause that much of an issue and I saw a set of Bosch 02s but didn't know based on what you said about not getting cheap ones if that would be good enough is there a brand you recommend or just go with Motorcraft?
 
Also if I where to video from in car looking at instrument cluster on acceraltion would that help or yell you anything?
 
I think Bosch may be part fitted generally (you know, EC-FitzAll~~~44s), so while I've bought them in the past, I've decided not to take the chance going forward. Last O2 sensors I bought were Motorcraft DY-606.

My opinion is that normal cause/effect with this car is out the window ;)
 
Well that doest sound good do you think a video would help at all? I find it strange that the cel comes on during heavy acceraltion then goes out once you let off.... Could an exchuast leak have anything to do with any of this?
 
I've heard that can mean a heavy misfire under load, such as when excess fuel is being dumped into the cylinders. Remember we talked about the injectors.

Exhaust leak from where?
 
I belive exhaust leak is from passenger side gutted cat.. Hard to exactly pinpoint when I can't be under the car and in the car... But sounds like it's the pass side cat where it was welded closed after gutting it thought about cutting the completely off but not sure if there is space to put a sleeve and pipe and haven't measured o.d.in order to get pipe
 
Also might be worth mentioning since we have been over so much pertaining to this issue and I believe I've stated this earlier in this thread but this problem existed before the harmonic balancer broke meaning it was there before I pulled the engine.... When I got the car 1st thing I had to do was gut the cats because it would not run more than approx 5-10 minutes
 
this problem existed before the harmonic balancer broke

I don't recall if you kept the same engine and injectors, or not.

If not, then you may be back to wiring.

I think we've already gone thru the MAF - did we double check it's the right one? Did you confirm the computer is the correct one?

When I got the car 1st thing I had to do was gut the cats because it would not run more than approx 5-10 minutes

They were plugged - removing them let the engine breath, but it didn't change the underlying issue from whatever is causing it to over fuel.

If it were me, I'd stop now and go over -every- single connector on the main harness from the computer out to each sensor/component, checking the harness for integrity/damage along the way. P I T A, yes, but so many opportunities for issues.
 
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Same engine maf is assumption that it's right I've cleaned it but never changed it fuel injectors have been on the engine since I got the car
 
Looking at around $200 if those injectors can be cleaned and put back into service ($30 plus shipping), otherwise $45 for remans ($270), $60 each new on avg. ($360), maybe less if you can find a set here, plus O2 sensors ($60 and up) ($120). Est. $325 to $500, I think, if it comes to that.
 
Chris - I got the video, but I don't notice a miss, only that the check engine light comes on.

What work have you done since last time?

Are there any codes associated with the CEL?

Ken
 
Definitely a miss maybe hard to tell in the vid but the rpm sweep especially when I go into 3rd gear is uneven the vid starts at 2nd gear which is where I go to wot as far as work since last time I've replaced the grey side of the dis mod wiring connector was very careful to make good connections and the cam sensor connector basically pig tails and I've checked the 02sensors wire looks really good and based on numbers on the 02 I think they are Bosch (I did not nor have I ever replaced them)
 
Also in the vid in 2nd gear (beginning of vid) rpms climb is even and quick in 3rd much slower of a climb obviously as you gear up is gonna slow rpm build up but it's struggling to get get to 4g rpm
 
Any rich/lean/spark misfire can light the CEL under load if it's bad enough, and of course, result in fuel being dumped into the exhaust. I assume your mileage is still poor.

Why does it pull so much boost?

Might be that much boost means spark issues...could be as simple as gap, or, dropping the boost, say if it is has too much pulley it can't handle.

Does it misfire if you don't exceed 10 lbs. boost?

What was the gap on the plugs on the engine that came with the car? Did you notice?
 
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