Possibly bad tps need some help

Engine codes

Finally got an Obd1 scan tool codes are. 67,87,10,41,49,53,87,95,96 so the fuel circuit codes are certainly because the fuel pump is straight wired because of electrical issues in the dash I've tried to put a relay in it and it won't turn the pump on. The clutch switch is bypassed meaning you don't have to depress the clutch to start the car I got an o2 code so I guess I'll be putting o2s in it a tps code not sure what route to take with that and mostly curious about the spout signal code not even sure what that means any and all help would be appreciated
 
Let's ignore these, at least for now:

  • 67 O Neutral Drive Switch circuit open
  • 87 O,C Primary Fuel Pump circuit failure
  • 10 - separator code
  • 87 O,C Primary Fuel Pump circuit failure
  • 95 O,C Fuel Pump circuit open, ECA to motor
  • 96 O,C Fuel Pump circuit open, battery to ECA
...and focus on these:
41 R,C Oxygen sensor circuit indicates system lean, right side
49 C Default spark error (3.8L SC only)
53 O,C Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) out of range (high)

Normally you want to work first thing on the list, then down, and the 49 alone makes me nervous, but all three together might be a root issue, and not individual problems. Root issue being wiring/grounds.

49 - electronic distributorless ignition system (EDIS)- spark advance word (SAW) signal error or, spart output (SPOUT) signal changed ignition timing to 10 degrees BTDC (before top dead center) or, transaxle problem 1-2 shift error.

I recall that you had to replace the balancer and crank sensor. Tell me about the wiring harness, starting at the multi-wire connector at the front pass. side of the supercharger top that goes to the DIS (and SPOUT connector, does it have it's shorting plug), then splits down the front to the cam and crank sensors and over to the coil. Are those in good shape? Are they damaged, mangled, repaired, oil soaked etc. Remind me if you replaced the DIS. Pictures would be great.
 
Have not replaced dis. Wiring is in decent shape not oil soaked but the clips on the larger plug are broken off but seems to be plugged in fully and not moving I'll take pics asap at work today (on call locksmith) so not home at the moment
 
The pic where you see my finger holding electrical tape that wire is the single wire and there is a butt connector underneath the tape
 
The pic where you see my finger holding electrical tape that wire is the single wire and there is a butt connector underneath the tape

Good info, thanks. I'm pretty sure I know that tapped up wire is the lone pigtail (shieled ground) off the crank sensor.

Are you familiar with EMI?

I'm thinking a fresher unmolested front harness is in your future.

Ken
 
Curious

Not sure if you have the time or will but if you do I'd like to speak with you on the phone because I feel much more could be understood in a shorter amount of time so if you are willing my number is 8033614503 my name is Chris. If not it's more than understandable
 
Chris - happy to discuss over the phone, I'm on the West Coast/Oregon, and won't have time until Friday or Sat. evening, say 7 pm my time, or Sunday after 10 am. Let me know what works for you.

Ken
-=-
 
I work those days on call but by all means call just means I may not be at the car at that moment or I might be that's the beauty of being in call you never know anything...
 
Did the fuel pressure test KOEOF 40lbs KEORUN 32lbs If you Rev the engine pressure goes up to aprox 50 after 15 mins hold time still at 39 so not a fuel pressure regulator is assume.
 
Ran some temp ground to the dis seemed to help but not certain haven't driven it far enough to say with certainty we will see as I drive it more often fixed a few other none engine issues
 
So took the car out again to grab some chicken wings 2.1 miles from home ran normal on the way there on the way back I gassed it a bit to see how it was running took off great let off the gas came to a stop made a left and it started severely bucking hard while using about 1500 rpm of throttle pulled into a parking lot as to not let it continue to buck noticed I had no tach whatsoever shut the car off waited about 1 or 2 minutes tried starting the car got a very awkward lobe with no start almost like a bad battery/starter when it tries to fire got a pop back through the exhaust not really a backfire but certainly an audible sound and no start let it sit 10 more minutes and it started no tach and was able to get it home half way home tach started working... Any clues or suggestions?
 
it started no tach and was able to get it home half way home tach started working

Normally means cam sensor and/or harness/wiring/connector issues.

Have you tried starting and driving around with the cam sensor unplugged?

Any codes right after?
 
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