I recently purchased a 1989 Thunderbird SC with less than 36K miles. It has the M5R2 5 speed and is mostly stock with an aftermarket stereo, 3.07:1 final drive ratio and B&M shifter as the only modifications that I've noticed thus far. This weekend, I checked over the car to prepare it for a safety inspection so I could transfer the title and get plates. All the lights work except for the back up lights. Both are out. Transmission has the original back up switch. When I pull it out and depress the ball (with the key on), both back up lights are illuminated. Is it possible the B&M shifter is not moving the part in the transmission that slides forward to depress the spring-loaded ball of the back up switch? Is there an adjustment in the transmission or shifter? I compared a replacement switch from an auto parts store and it appears dimensionally identical and even has the red plastic connector. The only difference is it doesn't have the Ford part number and logo.

I also replaced the receiver end of the driver's side lap belt. The red plastic button of the original part had gotten stuck in the depressed position. I was able to free it but it stuck again. Now that it's out, it seems to work without sticking. Would a lubricant keep things freed up?

The driver's side seat motor also labors when it gets about 2/3rds of the way towards the back. Is this likely to be a weak motor or would lubricant help. A quick search indicates culprits could be the switch, frayed wires, a partially stripped gear, magnets detaching from case and/or the seat rails and gears need lubricated.

I found a new-old-stock door lock switch and installed it so now the door locks work. Got a set of window gears coming (driver's side window is slow to raise), along with a 20 teeth speedometer gear to calibrate the speedometer and odometer for the 3.07:1 ring and pinion. I've got a spare Mark VIII IRS set up so I might a rob a pair of aluminum control arms to replace the Thunderbird's steel ones.

Once the new(er) tires are on, I'll schedule an alignment. I'll likely use the spec that racecougar posted on 04-29-2018:

Camber: Negative 0.8-1.3 You can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. I typically prefer mine at ~ -0.8-1.0.
Caster: Positive 5.0-6.0
Toe: Positive .05-.15 On a autocross car, you can go slightly negative, but you'll give up stability at speed. I keep mine at ~ +0.1.
Cross Camber: As close to zero as possible.
Cross Caster: 0 to -0.3 Going negative helps on crowned roads, but will cause a slight drift to the left otherwise.
Total Toe: Positive 0.1-0.3 Once again, this is for a car you'll be driving on the street. If it's an autocross car, a little negative toe will help on turn in.

Camber: Negative 0.5-1.0 Same as the front, you can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. Also keep in mind that as the rear squats, the camber will tend to go further negative. I like mine set at ~ -0.5.
Toe: Zero to +0.15 I'd lean toward +0.1 on both sides with Delrin LCA bushings and toward zero with the stock LCA bushings, as they'll allow an increase in toe when under power.
Cross Camber: Same as front. Keep it close to zero.
Total Toe: 0-0.3

Any input welcome.

Dan Jones
Florissant, MO USA