Anyone recognise this electrical Connector?

Jroy000

Registered User
I am in the middle of doing head gaskets on my first SC, it's a 1989 and I cannot figure out what this electrical harness plugs into. It's attached to the fuel injector wiring.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200330_143724207.jpg
    IMG_20200330_143724207.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 266
Good afternoon

Look underneath the driver side exhaust manifold. It is the connector going to the driver side oxygen sensor.
 
Good afternoon

Look underneath the driver side exhaust manifold. It is the connector going to the driver side oxygen sensor.

Thanks so much. That was it. I have just one last thing, then I can fire it up. I cannot find the wire that plugs into the coil pack. Where does it run? Could I have set something on top of it?
 

Attachments

  • 15856036935603957807559183036068.jpg
    15856036935603957807559183036068.jpg
    3.1 MB · Views: 270
Good afternoon


Trace the DIS harness to find the connector. This harness connects to the following:

1. DIS module.

2. Crank sensor.

3. Cam sensor.

4. Shield wire connectors

5. Engine harness

6. Ignition coil pack.

7. Radio nose suppressor.

8. Ignition jumper plug.


See image below.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai...=2ahUKEwiWvK7-o8PoAhWDmJ4KHYNXB_MQvhd6BAgBEDE

Thanks. I found it soon after I posted. I was just being an idiot. Went in to get some water, and there it was. I just overlooked it for like 25 minutes.
Started the car, and it ran. So I'm happy. But about 20 minutes later it started shooting steam out the exhaust and running very poorly. Guess it's back to the drawing board.
 
Thanks. I found it soon after I posted. I was just being an idiot. Went in to get some water, and there it was. I just overlooked it for like 25 minutes.
Started the car, and it ran. So I'm happy. But about 20 minutes later it started shooting steam out the exhaust and running very poorly. Guess it's back to the drawing board.

Sounds like the head gaskets are blown! Common issue
 
Ok, one last connector you can help with. What is this?

Also I bought some "head seal" liquid. Figured it was a free car. And I have nothing to lose. Thing sealed right up and runs and drives. I think it has a little vaccume leak now. But I'm fixing some other problems in the mean time.
 

Attachments

  • 15867145469596773691296671808296.jpg
    15867145469596773691296671808296.jpg
    3.2 MB · Views: 177
Since the MAF connector is in order, it can only be one other thing in that area - the level sensor for the coolant expansion tank, which isn't installed, so...still have that tank and sensor? I'd not run the engine to temp/cooldown without, BTW.

If the car has a VMM, is the low coolant light lit?
 
Sorry for such a long absence....

It's been really Rainy and cold here in Ohio. And I don't have a garage. The radiator overflow is in the trunk. I should've been able to figure that out. Lol I just didn't put it back because the water that I added never went into the radiator. Seemed to me like it was just an overflow tank. No low coolant light with it disconnected.
No overheating problems currently.

I have one more plug that I can't figure out. But the car runs and drives fine. I think, I called a friend that has driven a few of these, and he was not impressed. He says he thinks it has a vacume leak. It's really sluggish. And I hear a clicking sound coming from behind the passenger headlight. Sort of sounds like a spark plug, it comes and goes. Any ideas?
 

Attachments

  • 158741389001244802816235300856.jpg
    158741389001244802816235300856.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 152
That tank is not for overflow - it is for 'expansion', and an integral component, so again, without which the cooling system will not function correctly across heat/cool down cycles. Air in the cooling system will raise heck with the ECT, as one example, which leads to unreliable inputs the computer uses to decide air/fuel ratios.

There is only one thing behind the pass. side headlight that can make clicking noises - the IRCM. On an '89 SC, it controls the cooling fan speeds, the A/C clutch and EEC power.

Lots of things could make it run 'sluggish'. Vacuum leaks can manifest in many ways, depending on if they are small or large, and where they are. Do a visual on all the rubber lines you can spot and throw a wrench on the nuts for all the intercooler tube clamps.

Pull the codes to see what turns up there.

Might need to pull the spark plugs to be sure they survived the head gasket issue.

See if the fluid in the oil pan still resembles oil...coolant makes a lousy lube and might be the bearings/rings are trashed, dragging away power, leading to the 'sluggish' feeling.

Consider doing a compression test.

Check the brakes to see if they are dragging.

If auto trans, confirm the TV cable bushing is intact and the cable is adjusted properly.

Confirm the air filter is clean/clear.

Check fuel pressure at the rail...report what you find at idle, and under boost.

Confirm the throttle plate is opening all the way when the gas pedal is pressed to the floor.
 
Last edited:
When I suffered from vacuum leaks I checked for them by spraying quick, short flicks of starting fluid around the engine bay -- anywhere that could have a bad seal. If any starting fluid gets pulled in by vacuum the engine will rev up by itself and you'll know that there is a leak. Just be really careful, since you're doing this when the car is running you should keep your distance in case something sparks the fluid.

If you ran the car with contaminated oil it's possible that it damaged some of the lifters and moving parts in the engine, but when my car blew the gasket the oil was never visibly contaminated.
 
Back
Top