Play dumb games win dumb prizes.

ricardoa1

Registered User
Trying to crowd please and show off I managed to burn up something clutch related, 20” 3.08 and second gear dump clutch is was not what I had expected as it bogged and tried to recover the burnout by redumping the clutch at 5000rpms. I can smell the clutch material as we John Forced it for 30-40 yards.

At lights I had a hard time getting into any gears. Engagement feels much lower now, almost like there is air in slave. Now the mad scientist needs to tear it all apart and check for the welds on the intake manifold. Fun times in shuffle town.

Can I buy just a clutch disk for the CF Dual Friction, I can’t remember.
 
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Well, at least it didn't boil out, right? ;)

How many miles on that clutch?

Checking their site & amazon, is looks like you can buy just the disc. Have a P/N?

Ken
 
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Well, at least it didn't boil out, right? ;)

How many miles on that clutch?

Checking their site & amazon, is looks like you can buy just the disc. Have a P/N?

Ken

The clutch is over 10 years old very abused low miles. I had to install a new flywheel after bolts came loose on my McLeod aluminum one. In itÂ’s place went a new SPeC aluminum, old disc included. Break in was not friendly on my part and it slipped hard racing another car. Since that, I drove the car gently hoping the hot spots I had created went away. And for a while the chatter had disappeared and I was able to do pulls with no slippage, Fast forward to last night, I had just made a few tuning adjustments, the Misfire came back with the spare coil, still went for a night car meet, there even after the burnout the clutch held several hooning around runs as the crew caravan d to another location. I noticed the low pedal at lights and hard standing still shifts especially 1st.

I checked the reservoir at home and it was full. I also let it cooled down and tried again and still same issues. So likely a worn and warped disc. IDK. Need to get in there, I was going to drop the droveshaft to tighten the pinion nut to see he a howl would go away I guess now I have a better reason for getting there.

IÂ’ll call up summit. Anybody try the CF DFX model? Its pucked I wonder if will have the same issues as the SpEC I think they offer it for out cars. Bad idea? Thinking ahead just in case the cover is damaged.
 
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Bump for thoughts on the Centerforce DFX, seems like a new option for our cars, my 1/4 miles days are over but want the clutch to take the street abuse. Ive blown up two Center Force II disks in my history, and the dual friction has held up till I installed a new spec flywheel, likely a bad break in process by me, I don’t want SPEC woes but high torque on tall gears might not be ideal, Is it a bad idea to want this new option?

I can’t post my pics they are too large. Posted on FaceBook.

Want to order parts ASAP they take forever to ship.
 
Posted some pics of the damage on FB and had a conversation over there with Corey, he ran a hybrid CenterForce PP with a RAM Sintered Iron disc on both faces on his turbo SC with good results. That led me
to investigate alternatives. And after careful consideration IÂ’m going to try the RAM Powergrip kit designed for our cars. That kit has the Sintered Iron pucks on the Pressure Plate side and a high carbon organic full face on the flywheel side. They have 8 springs on the disk with some urethane filling, hoping these will be less prone to coil bind which could lead to other parts to break from shock load. Also the organic face hopefully make it less prone to chatter given my 3.07 some slippage at take off will be needed. I know this community sears by CF DF cause it works and provides good results and likely I would have been fine with the same again but want a better margin of abuse survival. We will see how things fair, they are typically more expensive than a CFDF so IÂ’ll probably the only one with it that will voice an opinion. Stay tuned...I’m expecting a little heavier pedal. But if it will do second gear burnouts with my 3.07 and massive wheels and tires slipping I’ll be happy.

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/clutch/
 
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Posted some pics of the damage on FB and had a conversation over there with Corey, he ran a hybrid CenterForce PP with a RAM Sintered Iron disc on both faces on his turbo SC with good results. That led me
to investigate alternatives. And after careful consideration IÂ’m going to try the RAM Powergrip kit designed for our cars. That kit has the Sintered Iron pucks on the Pressure Plate side and a high carbon organic full face on the flywheel side. They have 8 springs on the disk with some urethane filling, hoping these will be less prone to coil bind which could lead to other parts to break from shock load. Also the organic face hopefully make it less prone to chatter given my 3.07 some slippage at take off will be needed. I know this community sears by CF DF cause it works and provides good results and likely I would have been fine with the same again but want a better margin of abuse survival. We will see how things fair, they are typically more expensive than a CFDF so IÂ’ll probably the only one with it that will voice an opinion. Stay tuned...I’m expecting a little heavier pedal. But if it will do second gear burnouts with my 3.07 and massive wheels and tires slipping I’ll be happy.

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/clutch/

Being able to do burnouts is key
 
Being able to do burnouts is key

That’s what I’m saying, little embarrassing leaving the spot with a cloud of clutch smoke, and a little guilty cause that stuff will give someone in that crowd cancer according to California.

But all fairness problems started after fixing the rear main seal and oil pan gaskets. I installed the my MCLeod flywheel and CF DF with several passes down the track and held fine, but I was with 3.27s during that time. When I did the oil sealing I went to 3.07 again. Not long after the flywheel loosened up and broke a bold or two. Bad install on my part or maybe the ARP flywheel to crank bolts had enough from being reused. So a SPEC aluminum flywheel went on with the same Cf DF. Not long after that repair I was challenged to race on the highway second gear starting, quickly shifting into 3rd where it slipped hard in the upper range of third. By then the race was over but chattering poked its ugly head after that incident. I decided to give the components additional break in and took it easy for a while, things got better chatter went away and I progressively tested the car for highway pulls, all satisfactory. I felt things were back to normal till this 2nd gear clutch dump with line locks. I lost the momentum and had to redump it at 5000 rpms. I held it there spinning both the tires and clutch. The results was a pile of junk. I’m telling this because to be fully honest as I don’t care for either company, I just don’t want to be spending money and labor time changing clutches. I’ve exploded 3 organic discs in my SC ownership. Burnouts are the only thing this car does well and well I want to do it safely and reliably. I like my legs.
 
Never provided an update here, I had a vid on facebook, clutch made it to 250miles and I started to lean on it a bit 1,2,3 under full power and it has held up just fine, no sign of slipping, no chatter, uphill starts are ok needs a little more slipping and revs to not bog, do to the added lightness of this clutch and the flywheel. Pedal is lighter than the Centerforce and stock clutch, which raises a concern about clamping force on slicks, but since I likely wont be doing much of that it does not concern me too much. It has a very positive engagement but its not grabby or chattery, It slips well at start ups but is very positive shifting higher gears. My car is twin screwed and this might be what I need, I dont have a stomp puller engine and like the added ease of revs. So far so good and happy with it as its easy to drive when just cruising around.
 
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