Cruise Control Cable Routing

KMT

Registered User
I need to re-route my cruise control cable - I know how to deal with the end at the throttle body...anyone know if it's easy enough to disconnect at the servo, inside the fender (#5 at #1)? Just pull the fender liner, lift the boot, and un-clip? Unscrew? Thanks.

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Ken
 
Just from the diagram you posted looks like #7 is a clip that holds it together but on my 90 this diagram would be different I didn't take the firewall line loose but when I had the motor out and was cleaning up the engine bay I did notice that the cruise control line came through the firewall on the drivers side corner close to the fender but I didn't follow it through the fender looks like it was near the clutch master where it went through
 
For anyone that may need the info...

The cruise control cable is an assembly that is simply a thin metal wire rope cable, inside a reasonably flexible wound metal sheath that is plastic coated on the outside. Think of a throttle cable on a motorcycle. One end terminates at the cruise control servo inside the driver side fender and the other at the throttle body and the outer sheath is anchored at each end.

The cable route, from the outside, goes thru the fender, into a body cavity, out thru the firewall, up under the master cylinder, over the driver side head, behind the supercharger/over the rear of the intake manifold/block, and then attaches at throttle body lever, on the pass. side.

The cable end at the servo inside the fender has a small ball on the very end of the cable that sockets into a clip on a lever at the servo so the two can be separated at that point. Also on that end is a molded hard plastic housing, held in place by two nuts on fixed studs and needs to be indexed in place onto the servo before installing the nuts. The cable and sheath pass thru the housing, where the sheath appears to be permanently attached...looks like it is heated than pressed into the housing and the plastic on the sheath glues itself into the housing.

The end at the throttle body serves to also anchor the sheath, where the end of the cable is terminated in a plastic end that passes thru the throttle body lever, captured by a clip. The clip is slotted into the end cap on the cable to allow for simple tension adjustment during assembly/service.

If the cable assembly needs to be replaced/removed, do so by detaching at both ends, then snake it from the engine bay, thru the firewall and out thru the inner fender wall/wheel well. The fixed housing on the servo end is too large to go the other way. The pass-thru holes in between are large enough for the throttle body end of the cable.

Note the image above shows all the pieces at the throttle body (5, 6, 7), but does not include the attached hard plastic housing on the servo end (1).

I wanted to remove cable in order to correct routing mistakes that existed for who knows why prior to my owning the car. The cable was (a) pinched between the ABS pump motor and hard brake lines at the firewall, and (b), passed thru the short braided brake hose from the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir to the pump body. I plan on lifting my master cylinder as an assembly out of the car, and the existing configuration would have meant working around the captured cable. Work-before-you-can-work scenario. I removed the cowls and wiper motor assembly to aid access, also the wheel and fender liner, of course. Once I had access from above and below, it was a relatively easy task to snake the cable out and re-install/re-route. The cable is pretty flexible.

I re-routed my cable yesterday, and used the opportunity to deal with a few other small ills in the process, but when it comes time to pull the master cylinder, that job should be less of a pain, I hope.

Ken
 
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Excellent post Mr Kmt very helpful to me in the future as I get mine back in better shape I'd like to get my cruise control working again and just knowing where and how to access things is always helpful
 
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