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Thread: Harmonic balancer issue on both birds

  1. #1
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    Harmonic balancer issue on both birds

    1. I’ll post this in parts wanted but I need a March aluminum underdrive pulley... or maybe an MP overdrive Let me know what you have.

    2. The 93 5 speed snapped the snout, Balancer bolt and 1 pulley bolt. I was able to extract the balancer bolt but not the broken piece surrounding the crank shaft I drilled it on opposite sides and thread in some screws. (Wood screws was all I had) and tried pulling with pliers and no luck. I pulled the screw out along with some material. My question is should I pull off the acc brackets and timing cover and go after it with chisels or whatever it takes or keep messing with screws. My concern is I¬’ll have drop the pan too if that balancer chunk come of in pieces with debris that¬’ll go through the pick up strainer in the oil pan. I already have the correct Powerbond balancer and a new Ford balancer bolt

    3. The 92 automatic which my dad drives came to my house for a detail and I heard an accessory noise I began pulling of belts and it went away with the Jackshaft to crank belt. I thought the SC was the issue but didn¬’t sound like it. I move the crank pulley by hand and it¬’s loose about 1/4 in of play in each direction. I remove the 4 bolts and they¬’re all snapped in half inside the balancer and the bolt holes on the pulley are ovaled out. My question is can I remove the BHJ to make extraction of the 4 bolt threads easier and reuse it or is this balancer shot and I should order a powerbond for this one as well. Lastly I can check with dealer tomorrow but what do you guys use to replace the crank pulley to balancer bolts.
    Last edited by figulaz; 09-03-2020 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Spelling

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    482
    Good evening

    For the 93 I used the same process as outline in the below post to remove the ring.

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...armonic-puller



    For the 92. Remove the balancer. I have not had success trying to remove the broken/snapped bolts without enlarging the thread holes on the factory original and Dorman. My suggestion would be try a machine shop or as you stated replaced with a Power Bond.

    For both the 93 and 92 replacing the timing cover crankshaft seal would be a good preventive maintenance.

  3. #3
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    I agree, remove the balancer. Be careful removing the broken bolts as you will need to drill them. If you drill off center then you risk damaging the threads and making your job more difficult. If you drill from the back there is a good chance the drill bit will catch and walk the broken pieces out. Since the threads are not seized, they will probably come out easily. I recommend using a drill press though so that you don't get going crooked and mess up the threads. As a machine shop I would charge $50 or less to remove all 4 (just to give you an idea of what it would cost to have a pro do it). After you are done, the BHJ requires shorter bolts as you may already know, the reason the other bolts broke is that they were too long and bottomed out in the BHJ which is not tapped all the way through like the stock balancer and Power Bond units are.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    After you are done, the BHJ requires shorter bolts as you may already know, the reason the other bolts broke is that they were too long and bottomed out in the BHJ which is not tapped all the way through like the stock balancer and Power Bond units are.
    I believe I used stock bolts. Is there a specification for the bolts against BHJ years?
    J.Miller
    1990 XR7 and 1955 F250!

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys! I really needed to see the picture with make makeshift puller to proceed with the 93. My game plan is take the powerbond balancer that was originally for the 93 and put it on the 92 along with the 93ís march pulley. Thatíll get my dad up and running again the fastest. Iíll take the BHJ pulley and take it to a machine shop and have them take out the busted bolts and thatíll go on the 93 which has more mods. I just need a New/used March crank pulley and a trip to the nuts and bolt for grade 8 or whatever metric version of grade 8 Shorter pulley bolts. Iíll post a pic of whatever I come up with to remove the broken piece of balancer.

  6. #6
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    I think this engine might be getting pulled out

    I was able to get my dad the 92 back by using the powerbond I originally bought for the 93 and the March crank pulley from the 93. I also bought a 10% MP crank pulley from SuperCoupeperformance.com on Friday along with a water pump pulley on eBay so it should all work nice together). The BHJ HB is getting dropped off tomorrow at my favorite machine shop. I was also able to remove the remaining piece of HB using self tappers and and a HB puller. Special thanks to Sam Jones!! That’s the good news.

    The not so good news is I’m only able to thread in about half an inch or so into the crank. I tried reverse drill bits and ez outs to no avail. The threads on the 1/2” were getting boogered up but still usable and I figure the rest is fine as long as a pro does it —so I stopped.

    I just wanted to bounce options off you guys. Option 1:My engine or possibly just my crankshaft have to come out and go to a machine shop? Option 2: buy a Time Cert kit for about $100 and do it on the car myself but the inserts are only 15 mm from what I’ve seen online Is that enough?. Option 3. Junkyard dingle ball hone and re-ring 4.2 short block ( is there a balance shaft issue that needs to be addressed or push rod length issue?
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    Last edited by figulaz; 09-08-2020 at 01:57 AM.

  7. #7
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    Good morning

    This my experience with badly damaged crankshaft harmonic balancer threads.


    (1) Re-tap the crankshaft harmonic balancer threads first. I believe the thread tap is 14 mm x 1.50. Cross fingers that is all that needs to be done.

    (2) If that is unsuccessful remove engine. Disassemble and send crankshaft to the machine shop. I contacted many shops in my area and all were willing to re-thread the crankshaft only. Not the crankshaft still installed in the engine.

    (3) I would not use Time Sert equivalent for repair which is what I did. I can tell you even with the fan and radiator removed there is no room for error and/or work space with the car front end on jack stands. It can also be expensive to purchase cobalt drill bits/tap and a power drill with enough power but small enough size to get the job done.

    The end result was the balancer that failed 3 months later. I believe the cause was the rotational forces of the balancer and pulley caused the outside diameter threaded insert to "walk". The end result was:

    a. Broken harmonic bolt (again).

    b. Damaged crankshaft "nose" and keyway.

    c. Engine removed, overhauled with a replacement crankshaft.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by sam jones View Post
    Good morning

    This my experience with badly damaged crankshaft harmonic balancer threads.


    (1) Re-tap the crankshaft harmonic balancer threads first. I believe the thread tap is 14 mm x 1.50. Cross fingers that is all that needs to be done.

    (2) If that is unsuccessful remove engine. Disassemble and send crankshaft to the machine shop. I contacted many shops in my area and all were willing to re-thread the crankshaft only. Not the crankshaft still installed in the engine.

    (3) I would not use Time Sert equivalent for repair which is what I did. I can tell you even with the fan and radiator removed there is no room for error and/or work space with the car front end on jack stands. It can also be expensive to purchase cobalt drill bits/tap and a power drill with enough power but small enough size to get the job done.

    The end result was the balancer that failed 3 months later. I believe the cause was the rotational forces of the balancer and pulley caused the outside diameter threaded insert to "walk". The end result was:

    a. Broken harmonic bolt (again).

    b. Damaged crankshaft "nose" and keyway.

    c. Engine removed, overhauled with a replacement crankshaft.
    I talked to the machine shop today. they're okay attempting extracting the bolt while the crank is still in the engine and we'll go from there. Solid guys. Motor Machine off 16th in National City for anyone local to San Diego. This rebuild only has about 8000 to 10000 miles on it so I hope I can get away with just the bolt. If have to open it up again whatever...it's a few more bolts and a few more gaskets
    Last edited by figulaz; 09-08-2020 at 11:51 PM.

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