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Thread: !Removing Lower IC tube(outlet tube)!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Fayetteville, Ar
    Posts
    1,212

    Angry !Removing Lower IC tube(outlet tube)!

    I have all of the attachment to the lower IC tube(oputlet tube) off including the retaining bolt to the PS pump. I can't move it morethat 3/16 of an inch, and it looks like the PS pump needs to come out inorder for the IC to come out. Is this the case, and is that even going to do it? Help is appreciated. I need to have this thing back together today!I have all of the attachment to the lower IC tube(oputlet tube) off including the retaining bolt to the PS pump. I can't move it morethat 3/16 of an inch, and it looks like the PS pump needs to come out inorder for the IC to come out. Is this the case, and is that even going to do it? Help is appreciated. I need to have this thing back together today!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    LONDON ONT. KANaDa
    Posts
    891

    stud

    I had to take the stud right out on the lower ic tube to get the play needed to get it out ..think it's a 5 mm on the end of the stud

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    St. Charles, MO
    Posts
    20,899
    You are correct, the mount that holds the power steering pump and alternator must be loosened and slid several inches towards the front of the car in order to remove the lower IC tube. Removing the bolt from behing the power steering pump pulley is probably the most difficult and many people rent a puller to remove the pulley for easy acces to the bolt.

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Fayetteville, Ar
    Posts
    1,212
    Yup, I removed the pulley with a purchased puller. Still darn near impossible to get at.
    Do I have to drain the PS fluid in moving the pump forward?? How much PS fluid is needed to replenish??

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Palos heights, IL
    Posts
    2,538
    Last time I had the power steering bracket out I drilled a 3/4 inch hole over the bolt. Insert extention and slip on socket and problem solved.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    St. Charles, MO
    Posts
    20,899
    No you don't need to remove any of the PS fluid. Leave the PS pump and alternator attached to mounting base and remove the entire assy.

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Fayetteville, Ar
    Posts
    1,212
    Well I got the bracket loose. Actually had someone holding it out of the way about 8 inches, and the D*MN tube won't budge. It moves like a 1/2 inch. I don't have a clue how you guys get this thing out. Even if it were loose enough to pull out, I don't see how to manuver it through all the stuff. Frustrating...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,648
    I have a way of doing things which work for me. Here's what I have written up. See if it helps you any.

    abbreviations:

    PSP - Power Steering Pump
    IC - InterCooler
    UICT - Upper InterCooler Tube
    LICT - Lower InterCooler Tube
    SC - SuperCharger

    Remove main serpentine belt. Twist 18mm bolt on alt bracket pulley clockwise with breaker bar.
    Remove windshield washer reservoir. Careful with the 2 connectors, plastic may be brittle.
    Remove UICT clamp nuts and SC top bolts (unless you like messing with the collar nut).
    Remove UICT to PSP bracket nut (15mm) and then the stud (7mm). You'll know why when you reassemble it.
    Remove UICT and SC top as 1 piece. Cover the SC inlet to keep dirt out.
    Remove LICT clamp nuts at IC and LICT to PSP bracket nut and stud.
    Remove IC.

    ## This part depends on your ability to reach and loosen nearly impossibly hard to get to bolts. If you can reach and remove the 2 with a swivel and 1/2" drive, skip this part and just remove the 2 nuts holding the plate to the water pump. ##

    Remove PSP pulley with pulley puller tool.
    Remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the PSP plate to the PSP bracket.
    Remove the 2 nuts holding the PSP plate to the water pump.
    Remove the PSP to Water pump plate.

    ## End of optional part. ##

    Loosen psp bracket assembly (2 bolts, 1 nut/stud). Pull assembly forward to gain clearance.
    Remove LICT rear clamp nuts at the intake plenum.
    Remove LICT bracket holding the tube to the engine block (15mm bolt, 13mm nut/stud)
    Remove LICT (carefully to avoid nicking the flange seats). You may need to loosen the bolt
    holding the tube to the mounting plate. Its usually frustrating to maneuver it out, but it
    can be done.


    To reassemble:

    Apply teflon sealant tape (or equivalent sealant) to LICT flange seats (unless you were careful and you're lucky and can reuse the existing seal tape)
    Reinstall LICT loosely. (Now you see why it was necessary to remove both the nut AND the stud on the PSP bracket)

    Push PSP bracket back and tighten.

    ## If you did the optional part:

    Reinstall PSP bracket plate and tighten.
    Reinstall PSP pulley

    ##

    Reinstall LICT to PSP bracket stud and nut firmly but not too tight. Evenly tighten LICT rear clamp nuts.
    Tighten LICT PSP bracket retaining stud and then the nut.
    NOW tighten the LICT engine bracket firmly.

    Carefully install the IC. Install LICT clamp nuts loosely.

    Clean the SC top and SC inlet with solvent. Try not to scrape anything into the SC. Don't apply the copper RTV sealant just yet.
    Check for dirt and clean it out. Apply tape to the UICT flange seat.
    Now apply a very thin layer of copper RTV sealant to SC top.
    Install UICT and SC top but do not tighten. Reinstall UCIT to PSP bracket stud, seat it, then the nut and tighten. Tighten SC top bolts (You don't need more than about 15 lbs on these)
    Evenly tighten all UICT and LICT clamp nuts.
    Hint: observe the amount of the stud protruding as you tighten the nuts, keep them PRECISELY the same length on both sides.
    There should not be any hint of binding or misalignment. Be careful about this and you'll get a perfect seal!
    Don't overtorque!

    Install washer reservoir.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Fayetteville, Ar
    Posts
    1,212
    Phew..... I got it. Rocker covers are fixed, and tubes are air tite. Thanks guys...

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