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Thread: Idea on Intercoolers

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Madison, Ohio
    Posts
    17,532
    I think cooling the inlet air and then routing it through the stock IC tubing ect would be somewhat counterproductive. This system would work best with an inverted blower that feeds directly into the motor. By doing so you eliminate the pressure drop accross the stock IC and increase the efficiency of the system. This would reduce the amount of HP required to spin the blower at any given manifold pressure, giving you more HP with less internal stress on the motor.

  2. #32
    I am working on a pretty neat prototype liquid intercooler. It won't be done for another few weeks, and I don't have any plans to manufacture a kit. But when it's done and dynoed, I'll provide more info to share

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    H-Town Tejas
    Posts
    2,891
    David,

    The design in question is a thermoelectric cooler. It’s the same principal as the Igloo cooler/warmer that you can plug into a car cigarette lighter. These devices use electricity to move (pump) heat from one side of the device to the other side. As we all know there is no such thing as cold, just absence of heat, so as heat is removed from the heatsink that side gets very cold and heat is removed from the air passing over it. How much heat? That depends on the surface area of the heatsink the time the air is in there and just how cold you can get the heatsink. Basically it does the same function as the evaporator core for your AC only it is the incoming air to the engine.

    I agree that a better job would be to remove heat after the stock IC b4 it enters the engine. Max operating temperatures for TEC’s are between 150C-200C (302F-392F) so adding the device after the IC would probably be over the limit. I seem to remember that the solder was the limiting factor.

    Couga’ Dave,

    I agree. Last night I was thinking that for a race only system you could remove everything from the blower top to the lower manifold adapter. Then block off the bypass. Make a one piece SC top with the outlet running back the windshield and dropping straight down into the manifold. A one-piece affair, four bolts for the “top” and 3 for the lower manifold (extra long of course). The same type of device but turned upside down so that the heatsink fins also act as a diffuser. It might still work as long as it was drag only (only short high temps).

    Brian,

    I would like to hear about your idea, email me when you get a chance.

    Jeff

  4. #34
    ya got mail!

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