Oil coming out of dip stick tube???

ShawnSC1

Registered User
I am not sure. But is there alot of oil presure in the 3.8sc, because I had oil coming out of the dip stick tube. If thats the case then I just have a bad dip stick. If thats not the case, then there must be to much air coming from the super charger, or something around that area. Unless thats the way it is because when I disconneted the super charger belt. The oil was not coming out of the dip stick tube. Please let me know if I just got a bad dip stick or there is a problem within the super charger area. Thanks
 
I believe you could have a vac leak, i have seen this cause oil to spray out of the dipstick. Check the pcv hose that runs from the right valve cover around the back of the engine to the left valve cover. Does the car idle rough and want to stall?
 
This is what happens when you have excessive amounts of oil coming out of the dipstick tube. This was on the way to the Nationals last year.
 

Attachments

  • xr7smokin.jpg
    xr7smokin.jpg
    31.7 KB · Views: 653
Ok thanks for the info. I thought the same thing. I changed the two hoses from the pcv valve. Still oil is coming out of the dipstick tube. Only when I give it alot of gas. Yes some how it pushs the dipstick up and out of the tube. Is there a locking seal in those dipsticks. And for the engine running rough, it is not. It sounds and runs great. The odd time I start it in the cold it runs rough and wants to stall. But once I put it into gear, its fine. Maybe its the pcv valve, but I changed it a couple of months ago. When I had the car running I took the pcv valve out and put my hand over it and it had some presure there. So maybe its ok. Could it be something eles.
 
Re: Dipstick tube

I had the same problem just before my engine spun a rod bearing and ruined my crank. My suggestion is to pull the engine and do an overhaul before something breaks. Mine was caused by blowby plus a scored oil pump surface on my timing cover.
I ended up spending $8k to totally build a new SC engine.
SonySC@hotmail.com
 
I just installed this motor. I hope its not that. If it is that problem. How do I know and is there anyway around it, because I am not taking that motor out again.
 
Are u getting and exhaust out the shaft while its running....
When i cracked a ringland on my last engine i found on hard excellerations the exhaust would blow the stick out of the shaft and spew oil everywhere. That was thanks to the exhaust getting past my rings on the cracked piston and into my oil pan...

Hope for your sake this isnt the case...

CeD
 
ouch

not a good ...if it is boost related ...I'm thinking intake manifold leaking on the intake ports side...dumping the pressure back into the block.. another way I could see it happening ..would be a sticky ring on a piston .. your oil wouldn't stay clean very long if thats happening... get dirty quick from the blow by ...would need to do a leak down test to check that ... a compression test may not have enough working pressure to show up
 
If you changed the pcv valve, it maybe the hose coming from the pcv valve
is cloged. You might want to check it & replace or clean it out with some solvant
since your old pcv valve was cloged it might just be the hose.
 
I changed the hoses coming from the pcv valve. Could it be posible that I have a bad pcv. With presure coming out of it..

Now if I do have a broken ring and the exhaust is coming into the oil pan. I guess I am done. Wouldn't you here it if there was a broken ring, because the motor runs great. Also I don't know if this could have anything to do with the problem I am having. My one cat is making alot of noices inside and the odd time the engine light comes on. I put it on the scan but the light of course didn't come on when doing this test. Well if it isn't the cat. Could I do anything to get around the broken ring. Maybe get a few more months. This is my thrid motor in two years.
 
RE:Dipstick blowing

The ONLY way to tell is a complete compression check and then a compression leak-down test where you monitor if each cylinder is able to hold a given amount of pressure for a given amount of time or if it "leaking down". This takes a special hose, guage, and valve arrangement and an air compressor and access to each sparkplug hole. SonySC@hotmail.com
 
When you do a compression. you check each cylinder for balance(each cylinder is close to the same psi)

When you do a leak down test to find if you have bad valves or bad piston ring seal.
Put the cylinder you are checking on TDC ,and put a braker bar on the end of the crank
to hold in place.So the piston will stay in place as you add air pressure to the cylinder being tested.
You only need to test the cylinders that were weak in psi during your compression check.

Next hook up the leak down tester to the weak cylinder that you are checking.hook the
other end of the hose of the leak down tester to your air compressor, or portable air tank.
make sure you have the crank shaft locked down for a accurate psi reading.

Now you are ready to start the leak down test.turn the nob on the tester to add air to the cylinder
Bring the pressure up to say 100psi.record how much air you are loosing in 15sec.(example it leak
down to 75psi in 15 sec).record this 75psi leak down in 15 sec.

Next take the leak down fitting out of the spark plug hole.Add 1 or 2 oz. of oil in the cylinder
on top of the piston that you are testing.Put the leak down fitting back in the prark plug hole.
and repete the leak down test,by adding 100psi to the cylinder.Time how long it takes to leak
down to the 75psi .

If it take longer than 15sec to leak down to 75psi after adding the oil you have bad rings.
If it leaks down to 75psi in 15 sec again you have bad valve.

the idea of adding the oil to the cylinder being tested,is to seal the top of piston & rings .
 
You can also check a cylinder that shown to be weak after a compression check.
by just looking in the cylinder with a bore scope. and see if you have scratchs on
the cylinder walls this will indicate broken ring also.with out doing the leak down test.
 
Wow it sounds like a big job. I guess if I do the test I will forsure find one bad pistion or valve. I guess I am going to run it till it dies. The reason I say that is because I should of spent the money on a rebuilt motor. I can drive it slow and the dipstick does not come out. But when I give it gas it does. I was thinking maybe to get a couple or maybe more months out of it. I will do some mods. I was thinking maybe I will add a line to the dipstick and then connect the other end to the add oil spout. Or I can put a clamp on the dipstick so it does not come out. Then when it goes I will sell the car and all the extra parts with it.
 
had this happen to me, it was the hose going to the back of the inlet plenem that fell off, resulting in the smoking dipstick, and crappy idle, reconnected that hose about 2 months ago and havent had a problem since :)

but got a few questions for you

1. when your car is idling, what does the vac gauge read? mine was reading about 12hg which is way off of whati t reads now, almost 22hg

also my car would want to stall after sitting for a while,

i think i was also popping up the dipstick under moderate to heavy acceleration,

hope you have the same problem i did, i was really worried about my engine being toast, but i guess i got lucky, i hope you do the same.


Scott is probably referring to my car in his post btw.
 
Last edited:
Well my boost is at 15hg at idle. The car never stalls when it has been running for a while. If its cold its runs like crap, and then stalls. But if you put it into gear its fine. If the hose came off wouldn't you hear it. If not thats the one hose that hooks up to the grey box right. If so that goes to the pcv valve. I changed that hose. Is there a little hose that connects to that box aswell, or around there.
 
Start with the basics before doing a leak down test. Under power does it feel even or do you feel a miss? I would think youi should feel a miss if you have a ring out of a cylinder enough that it's blowing oil out the dipstick.

Check all of your vacuum lines. Make sure they are comming off vacuum sides of the intake and not boost sides. Check the PCV valve and it's hoses to make sure it's setup properly and functional.
 
based on your boost gauge reading i still think you have the same problem i did, my gauge sits at 20 at idle in gear, and like 22 in park, so 15 is definately indicative of a slight vac leak, my car had full power when it was under load but at idle it was a little rough. the hose didnt effect my boost but it did effect my idle

basically having that hose disconnected wasnt allowing pcv gasses out of the engine and they were blowing out the only available opening in the block......the dipstick.
 
Back
Top