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Thread: Motor mount brackets.........

  1. #1

    Motor mount brackets.........

    Back in the day Jason Marsh posted some pics of his motor mount brackets and the rubber piece that was missing which is used to limit the travel of the bracket, specifically of the driver's side. After some conversation with Jason and a ton of searching, I havent been able to come up with those pics or that thread but I do recall someone posting a pic of an intact bracket and rubber "limiter". Anyway, being faced with the common problem of an old car missing or having broken parts, I find myself in need of a suitable replacement. Anyone have any pics of an intact bracket assembly or source of replacement without buying a whole new assembly from Ford for some astronomical price?

    Paul

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Lexington, KY
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    Go with SOLID RUBBER!!

    Try this. I would go with the solid engine mount replacements for about $120 (this includes a replacement transmission mount too), not Ford.

    engine mounts

  3. #3
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    How important is the little rubber piece on the bracket? I just did my mounts (solid rubber) and believe I left that tip off on the driver's side... Sorry, didn't take any pics, though.
    SCCoA Member# 1786,
    1990 SC, AOD, 193k, Twilight Blue, bought in 1994, 1.7 AR tuned by Dave Dalke
    1994 SC, 4R70W, 139k, Teal Metallic, bought in 2014
    2014/2016 Carlisle 1st Place Winner, 94-95 SCs
    2014 Carlisle SCCOA Doug Fraleigh Best of Show Modified Trophy


  4. #4
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    I welded a small peice of channel,on the bottom of the torque arm that sticks out from the
    motor mount.to make it stronger,I then put a peice off rubber hose over it.
    The hose will replace the rubber that was on the torque box part of the motor mount.

    I am hoping this will work in place of a torque strap,or chain,ect. So far it has worked.

    Sorry didnt take a picture.
    Last edited by Randy N Connie; 05-12-2003 at 09:07 AM.

  5. #5
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    Sep 2002
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    On the stock motor mount. The rubber stop on the torque box,that the torque
    arm goes through,on my 90 sc they were TOUCHING each other when assembled.

    If this stop is left out .I beleive the motor mount will fail much sooner.

    Because off the rubber TOUCHING the torque arm it makes it harder to
    get the mounts bolt holes lined up to the motor when assembleing.

    But I would not leave them out.Without the addition of a torque strap.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Medina, OH (outside Cleveland)
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    Try these:

    Here are some that I took of my engine during that discussion:

    Driver Side:



    Passenger Side:



    I have not seen those rubber bumpers for sale individually. Maybe Ed can give us a rundown on whether or not you can get thoses pieces with or without a motor mount. I con't believe the last set of mounts I got from Ford had those attached.

  7. #7
    Once again George comes through! I should have just looked through your images directory before asking the question George lol.
    Michael Mattix, I sell the solid motor mounts you mentioned as well as tranny mount for less than the company you posted the link to, the item I was asking about can be seen and is perfectly described in George D's post.
    joenintiesc, I consider this piece of vital importance as it limits the motor's travel as it torques over under hard acceleration. It also will affect launch and 60' times during drag racing. When its broken or missing, the driveline absorbs the initial impact and slows down the transfer of power to the ground. On a mill like mine, Ill probably tear the mounts from the brackets after a few WOT runs without a solid torque strap or this limiting tab.
    Randy & Connie I'm liking your idea and may end up going along those lines if I cant replace the missing tab. My goal is to try and stay away from a torque strap if possible as I have knock sensor concerns. With this car being a daily driver and 91 octane fuel along with high temperatures being common in Cali, Detonation is the one thing I fear in this motor as it has bitten me before.

    Overall, if I do end up having to go with a torque strap of some sort, I will be looking toward something rigid like steel but soft enough to accept vibrations like nylon. My concern once again lies in the vibration affecting the knock sensor, NOT vibration being felt in the car. Will keep everyone posted.

    Paul

  8. #8
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    Paul, I have heard those concerns over setting off the knock sensor, but I have been running a solid torque strap off of a Mustang since the car was rebuilt nearly 15,000 miles ago. None of the dyno runs have shown the characteristics of the knock sensor being set off. I think those knocking vibrations that are read through the water jackets are quite different from the clanging of the torque strap.

  9. #9
    Perhaps a call to Duffy and Fred are in order regarding the knock sensor. Im not so much concerned with the sensor "falsing" and retarding timing (though that would suck) because of the solid torque strap as I am with it not functioning properly due to interference from the vibration the strap may pickup. A few GM (grand national specifically) guys have expressed the solid torque strap causing a problem for them and they had to look elsewhere for a solution in mounting. Ill be visiting their boards today for some further insite into their problems and solutions.

    Paul

  10. #10
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    I know they are set to pickup vbirations at a certain frequency. I believe the 94-95 cars also only look for the vibration when a cylinder actually fires.

    Out of curiosity, what would would constitute a knock sensor not functioning properly, besides giving a false positive. Do the GM guys have the knock sensor not ever work (retard timing) due to the vibrations of the strap? Doesn't seem very like to me, but then there are a lot of strange things.

    I remember Fred always said the 3.8 knock sensor was not working on his 4.2 stroker, but I always thought that was due to all the parts changing the frequency of the "knock" and then it was out of range for the sensor.

  11. #11
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    I know tapping on the intake with a hammer will set the sensor off

  12. #12
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    Ford only sells the motor mounts complete with the brackets, no separate pieces can be ordered as far as I know.




    cheers
    Ed N.

  13. #13
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    Paul,

    According to my dyno charts, the torque strap isn't triggering the knock sensor on mine either.

    I'm using steel sleeved rubber isolaters to stop vibrations from getting into the frame. Before adding them it soulded like a rod was knocking.

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  14. #14
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    With building up the thickness and adding my home brew rubber isolater (hose)
    to the torque arm.There is no room for the motor to move up or down.
    The motor mount torque arm will not bend or even flex.
    I do not feel or hear any vibrations.
    My favorite part , it was cheap.

  15. #15
    Alright, after talking with a few engineers about this I believe I have come up with a simple and cost effective solution. I will be working on it and will be testing it out while I am in St Louis the first week of June. Installation will be about the same as you would rate difficulty of installing motor mounts as it will require removal of the piece that sticks through the square opening. It is quite likely that this will prevent the need for a torque strap, even on high HP/TQ mills.

    Paul

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