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Thread: Subframe Assembly

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    8

    Subframe Assembly

    Anybody know how to remove the sub frame assembly on a 94 SC? . I have to do motor mounts and the oil pan, front & rear seals. This sounds the easiest. Any help or insight would be appreciated. I have a manual but it is pointless, just points to the suspension section. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Lakewood, CA
    Posts
    1,120
    I wouldn't do all that. I would take off all accessories up front. Unbolt the motor mounts, jack up the engine enough to get to pan and get it out, then put mounts and pan in and put all acc. back on.

  3. #3
    I have to disagree with Aaron on this. I have done motor mounts and found that if you support the engine from above, unbolt the motor mounts, the 2 small clamps that hold wires and lines to the subframe near the strut rod mounting points and the 8 E18 inverted torx bolts, motor mounts are a breeze. The job can be done in about 90 minutes without air tools and without lots of cursing and screaming. You will need two dowels of the proper size (dont recall them off the top of my head) to realign the subframe using the alignment holes which are there from the factory and a torque wrench for the resinstall. Th pan can be totally removed from the engine bay as well if needed (which I recomend as I would thoroughly clean the inside of it while its off as a precaution.

    Paul

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    8
    Thanks for the information. For everyone who wants to do this here is the procedure. I found a Ford service manual. Also how to get the PS rack out.

    1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

    2. Install Engine Lifting Brackets D91P-6001-A or equivalent.

    3. Install Three Bar Engine Support D88L-6000-A or equivalent to engine lifting brackets.
    * Note 3/4 diameter
    4. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

    5. Remove front engine support insulator through bolts.

    6. Raise engine on hoist.

    CAUTION:
    Raise engine carefully so as not to damage lines and hoses at rear of engine.

    7. Remove front tires and wheels (1007). Refer to «Section 04-04».

    8. Remove front wheel spindle connecting rod or end (3A130) from front wheel spindles (3105). Refer to «Section 04-01».

    9. Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front wheel spindles.

    10. Remove the lower front shock absorber retaining bolts.

    11. Remove front suspension lower arm strut (3468) from front suspension lower arms (3079). Refer to «Section 04-01».

    12. Remove front suspension lower arm inner pivots to front sub-frame retainer bolts. Refer to «Section 04-01».

    13. Remove steering coupling pinch bolt and disconnect steering coupling.

    14. Drain power steering fluid.

    15. Remove power steering return line hose (3A005).

    16. Remove power steering pressure hose (3A719).

    17. Remove power steering oil cooler (3D746) from body side rail.

    18. Remove wire harnesses and/or wire harness clips from front sub-frame (5C145).

    19. Support front sub-frame with adjustable jacks at four points.

    20. Remove eight front sub-frame-to-body retaining bolts.

    21. With an assistant, lower adjustable jacks and allow front sub-frame to lower.

    22. Place front sub-frame on floor or bench and transfer power steering rack, front suspension lower arm struts, front suspension lower arms and front stabilizer bar (5482) to the new front sub-frame. Refer to «Section 04-01».

    Also, transfer reinforcement rod and tighten to new front sub-frame to 95-130 N-m (70-95 lb-ft).


    Installation

    NOTE:
    DO NOT TIGHTEN FRONT SUB-FRAME TO BODY BOLTS AT THIS TIME.

    1. With an assistant, position front sub-frame to body and hand start the eight retaining bolts into the mating body cage nuts.

    2. Using an adjustable jack, raise the front sub-frame into light contact with the bottom of the body side rails.

    3. Install a 19mm (3/4 inch) outside diameter pipe or equivalent into both front LH and RH front sub-frame and body alignment holes. Tighten one bolt at each corner.

    4. Remove alignment tools and complete tightening of all eight bolts to 97-132 N-m (72-97 lb-ft).

    5. Install wire harness clips and/or harnesses to front sub-frame.

    6. Install power steering oil cooler on body side rail.

    7. Install power steering pressure hose andpower steering return line hoses.

    8. Connect steering coupling and install pinch bolt. Tighten to 28-40 N-m (20-29 lb-ft).

    9. Connect stabilizer bar links to front wheel spindles and tighten to 55-75 N-m (40-55 lb-ft).

    10. Install front wheel spindle connecting rod or end to front wheel spindles and tighten to 53-73 N-m (39-53 lb-ft).

    11. Install front suspension lower arm inner pivots onto front sub-frame. Tighten to 125-170 N-m (92-125 lb-ft).

    12. Install front suspension lower arm struts onto LH front suspension lower arm and RH front suspension lower arm (3078) and tighten to 120-160 N-m (90-118 lb-ft).

    13. Connect front shock absorber (18124) to LH front suspension lower arm and RH front suspension lower arm and tighten to 140-195 N-m (103-143 lb-ft).

    14. Install tires and wheels. Refer to «Section 04-04».

    15. Lower vehicle and hoist part way.

    16. Lower engine onto front engine support insulators (6038) and then raise hoist.

    NOTE:
    LH insulator (with locating pin) must seat first.

    17. Install front engine support insulator through bolts and tighten to 47-68 N-m (35-50 lb-ft).

    18. Lower hoist and remove Three Bar Engine Support D88L-6000-A or equivalent.

    19. Remove engine lifting eyes.

    20. Connect battery ground cable.

    21. Check power steering fluid level. Refer to «Section 11-00».

    22. Check front end alignment. Adjust if necessary. Refer to «Section 04-00».
    Last edited by rhanumaiah; 06-12-2003 at 08:50 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Lakewood, CA
    Posts
    1,120
    I tend to spend a little extra time to get a clear, easy line at things instead of banged knuckles and frustrating bolts you can't get to. Besides it only takes 20 minutes or so to get the accessories off and then motor mounts are simple.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Effingham.IL
    Posts
    5,011
    The best way. Is to remove the cross member.
    THROW IT IN THE WEEDS.
    And replace with a tube k-member & a-arms
    Last edited by Randy N Connie; 06-12-2003 at 10:12 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Lakeville, MN
    Posts
    13,517
    I think step #4 on that list of procedures is the sticking point for most of us that decided to do it from the front.

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