Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 20

Thread: upper control arm

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    bc canada
    Posts
    14

    upper control arm

    hey guys ive got the most annoying scrunching in my front tires from my ball joints and heard this is a fairly easy fix hopefully. is there anywhere to get a detailed step buy step walk through to replace these

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,755
    Surprisingly this is one of the simpler jobs on the SC.

    1. Loosen lug nuts, jack up car, insert jack stand, remove wheel.

    2. Loosen pinch bolt nut and back almost all the way off.
    Hammer on the bolt till it pops out, finish removing the nut and remove the pinch bolt. Hammer the sides of the arm up until the stud pops out.

    3. Knock the tabs off the frame bolts by knocking them back and forth with a screwdriver. To Loosen the bolts, you can reach behind the spring with an extension, socket, and ratchet. Use a backup wrench on the nut and a breaker bar on the ratchet (1/2" drive recommended). The only one which is tricky to get to is the rear nut on the passenger side. Go underneath and you can see it clear as day.
    All you need is a little grip on the nut as its a backup wrench. It doesn't even need to fit tight.

    4. Remove both bolts, remove the arm.

    5. Install new arm and hammer balljoint stud into the spindle.
    Do not torque the frame bolts just yet. Torque the pinch nut (Not the bolt!) to 60 lbs.

    6. Raise the whole assembly by using a jack under the lower arm until the car just starts to come off the jack stand. Torque the frame bolts or nuts to 80 lbs.

    7. lower the jack, install the wheel, lower the car, torque the lug nuts.

    On the driver side, if you can't reach the front nut, you might have to move the washer reservoir out of the way. For the rear, just reach in below the HCU and feel around with a wrench.

    That's it. About 1/2 hr per side if all goes well. I replaced the sway bar end links at the same time since the covers were split open, so it took me about 2 hrs total.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    bc canada
    Posts
    14
    thanks alot i will try that i should really do them before i drop my car

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Earth, Terran System, Alpha Quadrant
    Posts
    52

    Question quality?

    Any brand preference with the control arms? Where did you get yours? How much? This is my next purchase. Thanks guys!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    262
    I bought mine at O'Reilly's. They were Moog (TRW) and the price was approx. $56 each. Complete with bushings and ball joint.

    I also replaced both my lowers with new ones from John Nolan Ford. Price was approx. $98 each and they came complete with bushings (frame to lower, shock to lower, and balljoint). Inside the ford box, they were stamped TRW.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    LONDON ONT. KANaDa
    Posts
    891

    make sure

    the annoying scrunching sound is ball joints ....I thought mine was ball joints ...and turned out to be swaybar end links @ the caliper connection....and it would not make the noise ..when I jacked the car up .but on the ground... just had to shake the car alittle ...and it made the most annoying scrunching sound ..I sprayed grease into everything that had a boot on it...to find it ...dave
    Last edited by MercsSC; 07-22-2003 at 09:18 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Earth, Terran System, Alpha Quadrant
    Posts
    52

    Thumbs up Thanks guys

    sounds like an easy job. I appreciate the parts and price info very much!!! les schwab found my ball joint loose and could even wiggled it for me. And I can hear it going over speedbumps etc. I'm hoping my steering accuracy gets better because I feel like I'm a little sloppy because of it. I'm only replacing the bad (pass) side cause I'm poor and hope that doesn't hurt anything till I replace the other side. Thanks again guys. L8a.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Earth, Terran System, Alpha Quadrant
    Posts
    52

    Thumbs down yikes

    well. I forgot to knock off the tabs and stripped the front bolt. the bolts are 15mm I'm pretty sure. my question is. I don't have replacement tabs for the bolts, is this going to be a problem?

    also, where do you put the "backup" wrench? I just see the bolt head with the broken off locktabs which I believe only needs a 15mm socket or box end wrench to get off. thx.

  9. #9
    You put the wrench on the nut not the bolt. The bolt has those tabs on there so you dont need a backup wrench. The tab locks the bolt so you can remove the nut without a backup wrench.
    Just turn the nut.
    Dont knock off the tabs.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,755
    Actually, yes. Do knock off the tabs. The reason you rounded the bolt is you didn't get enough of it. Pry the tabs off and the socket should seat fine. The tabs are there to speed up the assembly line installation. You will also need the whole bolt head to torque it down properly.

    Ummm... don't forget that before you tighten it up, you're supposed to raise the suspension to normal ride height first. I'm getting most of this straight from the Haynes manual and it worked just fine for me.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    St. Charles, MO
    Posts
    21,164
    We changed mine (upper control arms) to get rid of that scrunching noise. It wasn't as bad as it looked like, and we also knocked the tabs off to get a wrench on the bolt.

    Get a can of penetrating oil, floor jack and someone to help hold wrenches and it won't take very long.

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat.............10.597 @ 135.78

    My Garage

  12. #12
    You guy's must have different tabs than I have or something.
    I only needed 1 wrench to fit the nuts and removed them myself without any backup wrench or anyone elses involvement.
    It was so easy I couldnt beleive it, about the only thing I've found easy to do on this car infact.
    Only took about 20 minutes to get all 4 bolts out.
    I must be missing something.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,755
    Sounds like you have a better selection of tools. Only the nuts on the front side of mine are very accessible. The 2 on the backside, closest to the firewall, were too hard to reach with anything other than a backup wrench which I think I used a monkey wrench for. Couldn't get to them and get any leverage with plain old tools. Otherwise, it sounds possible.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    174
    I tried to replace the A Arms on my 90, and saw those tabs, but they look welded onto the bolt. So, I tried loosening the nut on the inside of the engine companrtment on the driver's side. The thing was so tight, that I was practically lifting the car off the jackstands.

    After 3 days of trying, (I took a break here and there ), I gave up and took it to a mechanic.

    I wish I would have seen this sooner.

    Oh well.

  15. #15
    Sometimes a small piece of pipe to slip over the wrench for a little more leverage does the trick. I really am surprised that so many have had a problem with this, it was just about the easiest thing I've done to this car.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •