Brake conversion?

H

Hamps sc

Registered User
I've read thru all of the post on the abs brakes and have checked mine out accordingly. No brakes...(no pump$$$)What would be wrong with convertng to the conventional vacumn brake booster system like on the regular Tbirds. I know this has probably been tried but does anyone no why this won't work. Would probably have to use an adjustable proportioning valve but beside having to get rid of the abs warning light what else might have to be done.. Seems like this could be a cheaper alternative...
 
It's a lot of work, not just a matter of removing the ABS master cylinder and plunking on a regular one. The only person I know to have attempted this or at least done a good bit of research on this is XR7Dave. I think he hangs out here occassionally.
 
ABS >>> Standard Brakes

I have infact just finished converting from ABS>>>Standard brakes. The job is not incredibly difficult, but does take some time.

First, the non ABS unit only has 3 bolts holding it to the firewall, they do however fit in 2/4 of the holes already in the firewall. The third hole is already drilled, but plugged.

Second, a vacuum must be found. I simply tapped into the vacuum near the existing master cylinder area.

Third, the non ABS system has 3 lines (front left, front right, and rear). The rear goes into a block, and then continues to the driver rear wheel, where it then crosses to the passenger rear wheel. You must pull the two steel brake lines from a non ABS Tbird and run them to the two rear wheels (and remove existing). Routing around the exhaust can be a chore, but not difficult. You must also plug up the crossover hole at the rear driver wheel.

By using all four lines, you eliminate the need for the proportioning valve block. This setup appears to work (I've driven it for about a month now, no problems.)

There are a few other minor things to take care of, but nothing major. The light does still come on (ABS), but a piece of electrical tape will probably do the trick for that. Also, my "Firm Ride" does not work anymore (maybe b/c all the ABS harnesses aren't even plugged in).

NOTE: there are changes in the diameters of the rear wheel lines. However, with the addition of a separate line for the passenger wheel, this problems should be minimal.
 
For around $500.00 (probably less) you can replace your existing Teves Mark II system with a rebuilt unit from Prior Remanufacturing. Comes complete with a new Accumulator, and has a 36-month warranty. It is a plug and play replacement. (took me about an hour in my driveway with a basic set of tools.)

www.priorreman.com
 
I just got off the phone with the Prior Reman folks and was quoted $770.00 and they will have to rebuild my unit, just FYI
 
TheSurveyor said:
Third, the non ABS system has 3 lines (front left, front right, and rear). The rear goes into a block, and then continues to the driver rear wheel, where it then crosses to the passenger rear wheel. You must pull the two steel brake lines from a non ABS Tbird and run them to the two rear wheels (and remove existing). Routing around the exhaust can be a chore, but not difficult. You must also plug up the crossover hole at the rear driver wheel.

By using all four lines, you eliminate the need for the proportioning valve block. This setup appears to work (I've driven it for about a month now, no problems.)
Click to expand...

not 100 percent true....

while I was at bone yard the last visit I took pics of a non-ABS thunderbird (the one I got my cowlings from) that was vacuum booster, and the master cylinder only had two outlets. so I snaped a pic of it. And yes there was no outlet on the other side that I missed. there were only two and it had the same screw in proportioning valve that most people get from crown vics?? if memory servers me right.

i will post that pic tonite. but what was different about this t-bird that others needed three outlets..
 
Three outlets are preferred....

The front two outlets go to the left and right front brakes and the other remaining outlet is for the rear brakes....
 
wterry said:
I just got off the phone with the Prior Reman folks and was quoted $770.00 and they will have to rebuild my unit, just FYI
Click to expand...
Yup. 20 year old ABS units are getting hard to come by. For my running flock of 3, I keep at least one spare on standby. I personally will NEVER convert to conventional vacuum brakes. Its too much trouble and the results are not good. Better IMO to just gut it out and keep the teves II ABS operating in tip-top condition.
 
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90turbo1 said:
but what was different about this t-bird that others needed three outlets..
Click to expand...
The solenoid valve block is part of the ABS unit so the 2 front lines and the single rear line operate independently when antilock is engaged. A conventional unit doesn't need that since it isn't controlling each wheel.

In fact, the only reason there are 2 lines instead of 1 going through some sort of splitter, is for redundancy in the case of a loss of fluid. One set of lines will continue to provide pressure to the brakes if the other one fails.
 
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