Wierd Problem- Experts help

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Billabong089

Registered User
Ok heres what happened, I'm driving down a highway, doing like 80mph and I slow down at the light, start moving again, gun it in first gear, get to like 35mph, then this car goes in front of me, and i shift into second gear and give it gas- but nothing it felt like I was in fourth gear ( No i wasnt lol )..and then a check engine light comes on. It felt like it was on 3 cylinders, the exhaust sounded wierd and the idle was half of what it should be so it would make sense that it was only running 3 cylinders.

So I get home, go inside, pop the hood... and I was like let me drive it again, so my bro and me go around the block, its acting the same then all of a sudden the check engine light comes off and booooooom its back to its normal self...? So what could it be?

Also one more thing, my boost gauges stop reading after 5psi, it doesnt feel slower, it feels exactly the same, the vac/pressure reading is 20psi(or whatever the rating is ) so I know I dont have a vac leak... I have an aftermarket one also, so I dont think its the factory guage...

Please help me figure this out...
Ed


- Also no upshift arrow when starting the car.
 
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I had this similar problem. Cylinders 1 and 5 went out, then came back to life on it's own - this was a recurring problem. The car idled at 500RPM - the motor shook side-to-side like a pendulm. It had less power than a Geo Metro. Getting the car to highways speeds was a big challenge.

I dismounted the DIS module, sanded down the bottom of the DIS, and the ground bracket it lays on. Spread some fresh dielectric grease underneath the module, and remounted it - haven't had a problem with it since. Runs like new, again. :)

Dielectric grease - $2.99
Ford Ignition Module bolt remover - $4.99
An SC engine running back to normal - priceless...

For everything else, there's Mastercard.
 
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I was thinking about doing that, the DIS felt very hot..
but anyway lol, is the DIS bolt remover a special thing? since I'm not going outside to check, I figure i'll make sure lol... where can I get some of this Dielectric grease?

Thanks for the reply.
 
Billabong089 said:
I was thinking about doing that, the DIS felt very hot..
but anyway lol, is the DIS bolt remover a special thing? since I'm not going outside to check, I figure i'll make sure lol... where can I get some of this Dielectric grease?

Thanks for the reply.
Click to expand...

You can get the 'Ford Ignition Module Bolt Remover' any local auto parts store, that carries minor specialty parts. If they ask you the size of the bolt, tell them it's 5.5mm or it's converted SAE size, which is 7/26" I think - it says it on the packing slip of the part.

As for the dielectric grease, you can get that at any auto parts, or hardware store.
 
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Ford had a technical bulletin on the, 'Ford Ignition Module Bolt Remover', tool..
The Ford technicians were having trouble trying to figure out how to use it.
They are instructed to take an 8 hour course to refresh their skills, and remind them, "righty tighty.. lefty loosey".
 
Don't use dielectric grease!!

You should be using "Heat sink compound" on the DIS, not dielectric grease.
You can buy it at Radio Shack.
 
my shop manual says...

DIS Ignition Module


Removal

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect both electrical connectors at the DIS ignition module assembly by pressing down on the locking tabs where it is stamped PUSH and remove the connector.

3. Remove module retaining bolts and remove module.


Installation

1. Apply an even coat of approximately 0.80mm (1/32 inch), Silicone Dielectric Compound WA-IO, D7AZ-19A331-A (ESE-M1C171-A) or equivalent to the mounting surface of the DIS module. Install module and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 2.5-3.5 N-m (22-30 lb-in).

2. Connect both electrical connectors to module.

3. Connect negative battery cable.
 
Note that in that text they give a very specific part number. There are any number of Dielectric silicone greases out there with various additives to give various performance characteristics.

In the case of the DIS, the characteristic that you want is to transfer heat into the bracket the DIS is bolted to, turning it into a big heat sink. For this to work you need to make sure your Dielectric grease has thermally conductive metal oxide powders mixed in it. The easiest way to do that is to purchase Heat Sink compound, which is basically Dielectric Grease with metal powder to transfer heat.

The key with the DIS is make sure the bolt that grounds the unit (lower right) has a clean connection. And that the unit is kept relatively cool.
 
Mike8675309,
Could you post a pic (from above) with an arrow in an effort to dummy proof which bolt provides the ground. I've been having a slight studdering problem and believe it to be a ground...I just want to make sure that I have good contacts there for the ground. Thanks.
 
I have a : 'Ford Ignition Module Bolt Remover' for sale at only $5 and I pay shipping!

I agree, use HEAT SINK compound. Radio Shack or any computer store sells this stuff. They use it to mount the processor to the motherboard. It shouldn't cost more than $3.
 
umm well it was doing the same thing when I woke up this morning, so that tells me that its not from the heat although I just put new heatsink lubricant on it, sanded the surfaces... no changes... so what do I look for now?

PLEEEEEEEEASE HELP :-D
 
Mine did the same thing several years ago. At first it was just once every few days, before a couple weeks passed I could barely drive it to the dealer.

It needed a new DIS module..I suspect you do too.

David
 
I know two cylinders arent firing, its the two toward the windshield washer resevior,

like this...

X X O
X X O

--------------> driver side

The two circles represent the ones not firing... so anyway where can I get a new DIS? is it going to be a PITA like everything else I need for this car..?
 
Billabong089 said:
I know two cylinders arent firing, its the two toward the windshield washer resevior,

like this...

X X O
X X O

--------------> driver side

The two circles represent the ones not firing... so anyway where can I get a new DIS? is it going to be a PITA like everything else I need for this car..?
Click to expand...

Those two cylinders are on the same ignition circuit, so it definitely a DIS issue.

Surprisingly, DIS modules aren't hard to find, you just might need to special order one - worst case scenario. If you plan on keeping your car for a long time, get a brand new one. If you want a used one, you can search the classifieds. You can't get just any DIS module - there are two different kinds of waferboard DIS ('89-90 and '91-'93). Make sure you get the right one. ;)

You can get a new Motorcraft DIS at the (St-)dealership for about $340 in change, Autozone has a generic OEM version of the DIS for $99, NAPA sells their generic OEM version for around $160, partsofamerica.com sells their's generic OEM version for about $130. All of these places have a Limited Liftime Warranty, except for NAPA (only 1 year).

If you have the money, get the Motorcraft. If you get it anywhere else, be sure to save your receipt - you might need it. I only say this, because Genuine Motorcraft parts tend to be more reliable, than generic. ;)
 
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are the other ones crappy or something? I mean the $99 sounds good to me lol.

I went to the autozone.com website and they have one listed for $99 but they call it the Control Module.. is that what I want?


thanks.
 
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They're not crappy, but I don't think they'll last 10+yrs or 150+k miles. I could be wrong though. I'm just not big on generic components. But like I said, I could be underestimating them.:confused:

That one from Autozone would be the Wells unit.

Make sure when you get another one, shake it - make sure there's nothing rattling inside. If so, it's no good. That could be the difference between a good running motor and not.
 
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Well, I've ran into a few new, defective DIS modules in my time with other pplz cars. They ask me to replace it, they supply the new parts. I check to make sure there's no defects, and the ones with crap rattling inside the casing are the ones that don't work properly.
 
Two cylinders not firing sound like a coil pack. Not a DIS. Have you verified that the DIS is not sending the signal to the coil pack?

Here is a picture that shows the ground is the bottom two bolts. I thoght just one of them. You can verify with a meter that pin 7 of the DIS is common with the ground to validate that the ground in the DIS is working.

Pin 8 of the DIS drives Coil 1
Pin 11 of the DIS drives Coil 2
Pin 9 of the DIS drives Coil 3

You can use a test lamp between these pins and the negative battery cable while cranking to see if the test light flashes. If so, then the DIS is fine and the problem is likely the coil pack.



DISWireLabels.gif
 
lol argh, I just ordered a DIS, I'm a little confused how to check what your talking about mike.

I'll cancel that order until I can make sure... I dont want to waste $130 for nothing... but anyway yesturday when I was driving after it acted like it did, it went back to normal for a while, but now its back to how it was ( running 4 cylinders ). I've tried it hot and cold, like over night cold, no difference... I even put new heatsink and all that crap under the DIS, sanded the surface smooth,etc.

Is the coilpack cheaper...? I'm really unsure how to go now...I dont want to play money games, I'm lacking heavily in the $ department... only 17 and I work at mcdonalds lol.

I've been trying to save for a transmission, I think I might consider selling the car now.
 
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